Indian fine dining is having a moment in New York: one of the newest arrivals on the scene is Kidilum, a ritzy Keralan restaurant — a rarity in NYC — in Flatiron that’s helmed by chef Vinu Raveendran, previously of two-Michelin-starred Mugaritz in San Sebastián. It’s a special occasion restaurant, but it’s fun, it’s delicious, and the spice-rich dishes (they grind their own spices daily in a dedicated spice room) will transport you to the South Indian coast.
The cocktails ($22 each) are better than they need to be — remarkably balanced, and could fit right in on any fancy cocktail bar’s menu. The Khopra with dark rum, jasmine, pineapple, coconut, and curry leaves somehow tastes exactly like a peach ring. Order it if you like sweeter drinks, or Kidilum martini with gin, dry vermouth, and raw mango brine for a tangy twist on a classic.
Try to see the spice room downstairs after dinner. Your server may offer a tour, and if they do, say yes. The small, closet-sized space is packed with all the carefully sourced spices they use.