The East Village Vietnamese restaurant Bánh Anh Em from Nhu Ton and John Nguyen has been popular since it opened in the spring: The line down the block is proof that, even in our age of overhype, customers respond to quality ingredients and strong flavors. Nearly every item on the menu comes loaded with ingredients made from scratch, including the bread in the bánh mì and the springy rice noodles in the phở. And some are punched up by items imported straight from Vietnam.

It’s worth sacrificing a little table real estate to perch at the bar, where you’ll have a clear view of the flaming grills and kitchen team in action.

The restaurant is walk-in only, and you’d better do so early. A line forms in front of the restaurant 15 to 30 minutes before opening at 6 p.m. for dinner. Place takeaway orders well in advance.