Photo by Yana Krasnitskaya
By Yana Krasnitskaya
A few weeks ago I wrote that there was nothing quite as wonderful as getting home from a tiring day and ordering in Thai food. But, okay, I confess: That wasn’t entirely accurate. There is one other cuisine I order at least as much as, and possibly more than, Thai and that is Japanese — sushi, to be specific. Lately, because it’s been so warm and because my Pilates studio is right there – shout out to PIVOT – I’ve been ordering pick up from Bondi Sushi; specifically their “build your own box,” which includes four rolls of my choice.
Bondi – which has multiple locations citywide, including one on the UWS stretch of Broadway that’s best known for home goods and furniture stores – does have a sit-down restaurant attached to it, but I’ve never been there, probably because I’m so obsessed with the aesthetic of their takeout spot. It’s incredibly clean and done up in light wood and white to match Bondi’s brand. One wall features a large rendition of their logo: an outline of a fish diving into the water, which I find absolutely delightful.
If you feel overwhelmed when looking at their extensive menu, don’t worry: Everything at Bondi is delicious and fresh. You genuinely can’t go wrong. On my most recent visit, I chose spicy tuna; yellowtail and scallion; salmon and avocado; and spicy blue crab. This last roll is probably the most unusual choice I made and one that I don’t often see on a menu, but boy is it yummy. The crab’s natural sweetness is balanced perfectly with the spicy mayo and the rice provides a nice vinegar-y bite that cuts through the richness of the filling. If you also dip it in a touch of soy sauce and add a dash of wasabi, you’re set.
Also memorable was the yellowtail and scallion, which I think is generally an underrated roll. Yellowtail is a lighter fish than, for example, salmon, but its butteriness works remarkably well with the bite of the scallion. It hit the spot and needed absolutely nothing. It tasted like the ocean to me in the best way.
The spicy tuna and salmon and avocado rolls were also delicious, but there are many to choose from. From shrimp and avocado to eel rolls, Bondi has it all. And it all comes packed in a neat blue and white box with slots cut out for the accoutrements, like wasabi, soy sauce and ginger. While Bondi isn’t exactly reinventing the wheel when it comes to maki combinations, they’ve really nailed down their aesthetic and I’m here for it.
There is one thing that Bondi has over most other sushi restaurants, and that is their brown rice. I’ve been on a health journey for almost two years now, which means I’ve begrudgingly introduced brown rice into my sushi orders, with varying levels of disappointment. But not at Bondi. Somehow their brown rice not only holds but actually picks up the tang of the vinegar that’s unique to sushi rice. I have no idea what they do to make it that way, and maybe I don’t want to know. Ignorance is bliss. Bliss is also Bondi’s brown rice.
This time, I also tried the sesame seaweed salad. The seaweed here is not the typical nest of slippery green ribbons. Bondi leaves the seaweed in its natural form – flatter and wider with curling edges – so the texture is quite different. You can taste more of the briny, sea-fresh flavor. It stands up really nicely to the dressing which is heavy on tahini and spices. I would be interested to try the same salad but with the standard ginger dressing. I bet it’s delicious too.
Overall I think Bondi is a fun, convenient spot to satisfy your sushi craving. I might be a sucker for their stylish, minimalist presentation, and it is on my way home most days, but I dare you to step into that takeaway spot and not be reeled in – no pun intended – by the cute decor. Or by the cute little to-go boxes that hold all manner of delicious joy inside (including really well prepared brown sushi rice).
The Dish: “Build Your Own” Sushi Box ($29) and seaweed salad ($9)
The Restaurant: Bondi, 2052 Broadway (between West 70th and West 71st streets). Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., seven days a week.
Read all Here’s the UWS Dish columns here.
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