New York City’s Thai scene has been leveling up this summer, with familiar names expanding or reopening, like Hungry Thirsty’s new Chelsea spot and the return of Ugly Baby in Williamsburg. Now, a trio of friends who are from Bangkok is opening their personal version of contemporary Thai dining next month, showcasing all things jasmine rice. Hommali is opening in the West Village at 28 Seventh Avenue South, near Leroy Street on Wednesday, September 2.
Hommali refers to “hom mali,” which means “fragrant jasmine rice” in Thai, and is the country’s national rice variety. It’s from chef Chattchakorn “Benz” Khajornchaisan (who worked at Eleven Madison Park), general manager Kritayanee “Air” Promsarin (who is also curating the wines), and operations lead Pichalak “Picha” Srigungvarl. Promsarin also mentions it means “kissing on the cheek” in Thai.
Srigungvarl adds: “Rice is something that we have all the time.” White jasmine rice is complimentary with every meal.
The Northern larb beef tartare at Hommali. Hommali
The penang beef cheek curry at Hommali. Hommali
The tom yum seafood cocktail at Hommali. Hommali
Along with that rice, Khajornchaisan is showcasing her definition of Thai food. Her take on northern Thai-style larb with a New York twist. She’s making the beef tartare with dry-aged beef heart served with a cured, then cooked, and then fried tripe cracker. Promsarin describes it as “amazing, nutty and pungent.”
Khajornchaisan is making her curry pastes with lots of different Thai chiles, “some more fragrant, some more beautiful colors, I can control all the spices,” she says.
Other dishes include tom yum seafood cocktail; dry-aged duck breast served with fermented chile sauce; and penang curry with beef cheeks. For dessert, there’s the roselle sorbet (made with the hibiscus juice popular in Thailand) topped with fermented rice cream.
Drinks are from Patrick Cura, which includes infusions and fermentations. Promsarin points to the Tomato, a take on the michelada and a spritz, which includes a Singaporean rice wine made with jasmine and sticky rice. They’ll be able to adjust the spice levels with a Thai chile tincture added at the table. There’s also the Fig, with a fig leaf-infused vermouth, gin, and Lillet Blanc, Saint-Germain; and the Banana with a jasmine rice-infused whiskey. The wine list includes 30 to 50 options; plus there are beers, including a Thai one.
Hommali’s bar and dining areas. Hommali
One of the group dining nooks at Hommali. Hommali
The mezzanine floor at Hommali. Hommali
The space is meant to feel and look like a Thai home, designed with Surrane Design.
The color scheme of white, terracotta, and green references the lifespan of rice plants. The bi-level space includes a welcome lounge with a gorgeous rice plant light fixture; a nine-seat main bar; a communal nook with two booths for large groups; an enclosed dining room behind a curtain with 20 seats and artwork on the walls; and the mezzanine dining room with communal seats as well. The ground floor includes the visible wine room, with the dry-aging room above it.
Khajornchaisan started cooking during the pandemic on her own and decided to do it professionally. She started at Eleven Madison Park, where she met Promsarin, and then worked at places like Saga, Cafe Carmellini, and staged at Baan Tepa in Thailand, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant.
Promsarin’s hospitality background includes the Standard Grill and the Standard, High Line hotel, where she ultimately became a room service supervisor. Then she joined Eleven Madison Park, eventually becoming a captain. Srigungvarl had been the floor manager of Japanese ramen restaurant Tonchin and was roommates with Khajornchaisan.
Chattchakorn “Benz” Khajornchaisan, Kritayanee “Air” Promsarin, and Pichalak “Picha” Srigungvarl of Hommali. Hommali
“When I’m cooking, I have the same music approach,” Khajornchaisan says, who’s also a guitarist. “Music has harmony, right? Food has harmony as well. One bite needs to be balanced and delicious, and like the jazz musician, you need to know all forms and foundations. When you get to know all the foundations, you can create your own thing; you can improvise, but you need to have that foundation and structure to create something that makes people go, ‘Wow, this is new, what is it?’”
Hommali will be open for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. Book reservations on Resy.