New York has always been a steakhouse town, but in recent years, the city has doubled down on these white-tableclothed restaurants and their casual cousin, the tavern, especially from people outside of New York City. And the best of those comes from an Argentine restaurateur. Pablo Rivero, known for his Michelin-starred Don Julio and El Preferido in Buenos Aires, made his American debut with Graciela in the West Village over the summer. His new Argentine tavern (named after his mother) stands out among the glut of steakhouses and taverns opening in the city, thanks to off-the-charts hospitality and great live-fire-cooked meats.
I started with the enjoyable Pie de Montana ($19), a variation on a martini with gin, vermouth, and fino sherry. For the rest of the meal, I stuck with the two lighter red wine recommendations: the lightly bold Viejas Tintas, a bonarda field blend from San Juan, Argentina winery El Montanista; followed by slightly spiced Matas Alta by Bodega Cerron in Spain, a monastrell wine.
I was able to order half-portions of my entrees if you ask nicely and the kitchen isn’t overwhelmed.