Restaurant Review: Ugly Baby in Williamsburg
Vide the spice bros. You notice them as soon as you walk in. Full tables — a foursome…
Restaurant Review: Burmese Bites in Astoria
Why not Burmese? The country of Myanmar — widely known until 1989 by its colonial name, Burma — is larger…
Restaurant Review: Somssi and Noury in NYC
New York is a tongue town. Katz’s has been slicing it by the pound for decades. It’s a…
Restaurant Review: Pablo Rivero’s Graciela in NYC
It was a hot Argentina summer — except in Argentina, where, being southerly hemisphered, it was a cool…
Restaurant Review: Oriana in NYC
Oriana, the name, first crops up in literature as a term of praise. The Triumphs of Oriana is…
Restaurant Review: Zoli in East Williamsburg
Of all the alerts and inquiries I’ve received from restaurants — soliciting my preferences, my allergies, my aversions,…
Restaurant Review: Marcel Is Overcurated and Underwhelming
Three days after Sotheby’s successfully auctioned a Rothko for $85.8 million, I dined with the acquisitions class at…
Restaurant Review: Odo East Village
The durational work of art will always have its day. Jeanne Dielman. Lonesome Dove. Ponderously weighty, they bring…
Dean’s Is a Soho Local
To love the pub is to lament the pub. It’s never as good as it was. Kingsley Amis,…
Restaurant Review: Confidant in Brooklyn Heights
If at first you don’t succeed, location, location, location.” Isn’t that how it goes? Confidant, a gamely ambitious…
Ambassadors Clubhouse in New York
“Oh, Ambassador, you’re spoiling us!” a Londoner I know likes to quip. In the U.K., it’s a semi-famous…
Pierogi Boys in Ridgewood, Queens
When a DJ in Ridgewood tells you he’s found local schnitzel that’s better than anything he got during…