Sin City has arrived in New York. <\/p>\n
Golden Steer, the 70-year-old classic Las Vegas steakhouse, just opened at One Fifth Avenue<\/a>, the iconic Art Deco building where Marc Forgione and Mario Batali owned restaurants and Anthony Bourdain and Keith McNally once worked<\/a>.<\/p>\n It\u2019s\u00a0an audacious roll of the dice<\/a> by Golden Steer\u2019s affable husband-and-wife owners Nick McMillan and Amanda Signorelli, who took over when Amanda\u2019s father, Dr. Michael Signorelli, turned it over to them in 2019.<\/p>\n \u201cIt feels surreal,\u201d McMillan said. \u201cHistory and storytelling is a huge piece of the brand and there\u2019s perhaps no venue in New York with more legacy than One Fifth.\u201d<\/p>\n The stunning Golden Steer has an elegant speakeasy feel. Tamara Beckwith\/NY Post<\/p>\n Husband-and-wife duo Nick McMillan and Amanda Signorelli own the steakhouse, which has been a Vegas staple for decades. Courtesy of Golden Steer<\/p>\n Architecture firm Modellus Nvous, which also worked on Tatiana and Crown Shy, transformed the space into a sexy, romantic time trip to the Vegas of the 1950s and \u201860s, when Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley and mobsters mingled with blondes\u00a0in mink stoles sunning by the Sahara pool.<\/p>\n A convivial\u00a0main room gives onto\u00a0a seductively lit bar-lounge and two private spaces \u2014 the \u201cMob Room,\u201d and \u201cShowgirls Room.\u201d<\/p>\n Everywhere, the 167-seat venue is plush and clubby in the speakeasy style of Chez Fifi and The 86, with tufted upholstered booths, globe-light sconces, stained glass and thick carpeting. A soundtrack of Ol\u2019 Blue Eyes and his Rat Pack pals lend a touch of Carbone as well.<\/p>\n The menu leans heavily on steakhouse classics. Tamara Beckwith\/NY Post<\/p>\n The menu, by executive chef Brendan Scott, a veteran of Carne Mare, shows early promise.\u00a0<\/p>\n USDA-prime, 24-oz. bone-in ribeye ($104), grilled medium-rare-plus, delivered the blood-and-mineral goods, but my favorite dishes were Italian-inspired.<\/p>\n House-made steer sausage is a rustic thrill, the thick, richly herbed\u00a0meat in a pool of Umbrian lentils. A trio of tender veal medallions ($52) wrapped in prosciutto and topped with a wine-butter sauce possessed the classic saltimbocca union of flavorful protein and sage.<\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t\tStart your day with all you need to know\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tMorning Report delivers the latest news, videos, photos and more.\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\tThanks for signing up!\n\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n Maple-glazed, roasted honeynut squash ($17) was perfectly sweet and satisfying, but the \u201cVegas\u2019s Largest Baked Potato\u201d ($16) was a dud of a spud, neither hot nor seasoned enough to make an impression.<\/p>\n Caesar salad for two ($23), assembled on a tableside trolley, rightly possessed the crackling intensity of whole anchovies, lemon and crisp romaine lettuce.<\/p>\n But some of the most memorable dishes are those with Italian flair, such as a steer sausage over lentils. Tamara Beckwith\/NY Post<\/p>\n Veal saltimbocca is also well executed. Tamara Beckwith\/NY Post<\/p>\n But another tableside feat, bananas foster ($26), flopped. The flambeed bananas were insufficiently caramelized and ordinary despite generous application of banana liqueur and dark rum.<\/p>\n Golden Steer comes to town in the midst of a beef boom<\/a>. The city\u2019s modern-steakhouse scene is oversaturated with La Tete D\u2019Or<\/a>, Bourbon Steak, Gui, Dynamo Room new locations of Del Frisco\u2019s, Capital Grill, Rocco\u2019s \u2014\u00a0just to name a few. On the horizon, there\u2019s Maple & Ash, a second Cote, and a fourth STK.<\/p>\n Master butcher Pat LaFrieda, who isn\u2019t associated with Golden Steer, told me he sold 25% more beef to NYC restaurants\u00a0in 2025 than in 2024.<\/p>\n Tableside theatrics are fun but don\u2019t always pay off on the plate. The Bananas Foster was a disappointment. Tamara Beckwith\/NY Post<\/p>\n \u201cNo matter what anybody says about red meat is bad for you and no matter how much prices go up, it only seems to create more demand,\u201d\u00a0 he chuckled.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n But, even steak-loving Gothamites might reach their fill. Golden Steer has a lot of competition.<\/p>\n If looks were the only thing that counted, it would be a clear winner. For my two cents, though, the restaurant also needs a high-quality burger, as most steakhouses offer, and a few more seafood entrees beyond shellfish, salmon and halibut.<\/p>\n When I mentioned this to Signorelli, she said the menu was intended to resemble\u00a0the Las Vegas original.<\/p>\n But what works on Sahara Avenue doesn\u2019t necessarily work on lower Fifth.<\/p>\n I hope Golden Steer keeps its eye on local taste \u2014 and lives up to its golden promise.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Sin City has arrived in New York. 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