{"id":223411,"date":"2026-05-07T15:52:17","date_gmt":"2026-05-07T15:52:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/223411\/"},"modified":"2026-05-07T15:52:17","modified_gmt":"2026-05-07T15:52:17","slug":"the-cheesy-western-a-longtime-roanoke-food-icon-guest-stars-on-a-manhattan-menu-chile-is-extra","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/223411\/","title":{"rendered":"The Cheesy Western, a longtime Roanoke food icon, guest stars on a Manhattan menu. (Chile is extra.)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The alarm rang at 3 a.m. in a room at the Hotel Roanoke, rousing hamburger impresario George Motz. He walked over the railroad tracks and on to Church Avenue for a Texas Tavern appointment with a triple Cheesy Western, chile added.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI couldn\u2019t believe that there was no one on the street, but the place was packed,\u201d Motz said in a Tuesday phone call. \u201cEvery stool was taken. I had to wait for a stool at 3 o\u2019clock in the morning, and it was real. It actually was high-functioning.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>That stress test a few years ago was part of a two-decade relationship that the author, filmmaker and restaurateur has had with Texas Tavern and its fourth-generation owner, Matt Bullington. On Thursday, customers at Motz\u2019s Hamburger America restaurant, in New York City, can get the Roanoke eatery\u2019s signature sandwich.<\/p>\n<p>Bullington and his wife, Molly, joined Motz on Wednesday at the Lower Manhattan restaurant for a news conference to celebrate the cheesy and an <a href=\"https:\/\/www.southernliving.com\/hamburger-heroes-11954293\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">article Motz wrote for Southern Living<\/a> that touts four of his favorite burger joints, including Texas Tavern.<\/p>\n<p>Motz will serve the Cheesy Western with two fresh beef patties, a lightly scrambled egg, onions, pickles and the tavern\u2019s proprietary recipe relish. Bullington and Motz met in West Virginia, midway between Roanoke and Manhattan, for the relish handoff.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Bullington prepared 27 gallons of the mustardy, vinegary stuff for Motz to refrigerate and serve as Hamburger America\u2019s monthly burger special, and the pair played it up like a top secret handoff on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DX9v7aIBPvA\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Instagram<\/a>. The joint will even be serving another Texas Tavern staple, chile (that\u2019s the way the Bullingtons have spelled it since 1930), but it only has enough to last Wednesday and Thursday, Motz said.<\/p>\n<p>Bullington said he is thankful for and humbled by the recognition, which includes Motz\u2019s popular 2008 book, \u201cHamburger America: A State-by-State Guide to 100 Great Burger Joints.\u201d Through four editions \u2014 the latest was published in April \u2014 Motz has added 120 more restaurants to the list.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI\u2019ve always said the tavern is a cultural mooring,\u201d Bullington said. \u201cThere\u2019s an authenticity to it that a lot of people crave, those places where there\u2019s kind of a real connection. That\u2019s our story. The tavern, you go in there, it looks the same. The food, it\u2019s kind of quirky. We do our own things. We make fun of you if you order ketchup on a burger, and that\u2019s kind of the core of who we are.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cPeople like to see things with staying power, because our world changes fast, and every year it changes faster and faster. It\u2019s a cultural institution that\u2019s timeless, and we try to keep it timeless. And I think that there\u2019s value in that.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"780\" height=\"520\" data-attachment-id=\"168315\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/cardinalnews.org\/georgeatcounter\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/cardinalnews.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Georgeatcounter-scaled.jpeg?fit=2560%2C1707&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"2560,1707\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{\" aperture=\"\" bisdale=\"\" andrew=\"\" data-image-title=\"168166_dickens_20260505_cheesywestern3_jpg\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;George Motz at work in his New York City restaurant, Hamburger America. Motz\u2019s monthly burger special for May is the Cheesy Western, from Roanoke\u2019s Texas Tavern. Motz has featured the tavern in every edition of his book, \u201cHamburger America: A State-by-State Guide to 220 of the Greatest Burger Joints Across the Country.\u201d&lt;\/p&gt;&#10;\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/cardinalnews.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Georgeatcounter-scaled.jpeg?fit=780%2C520&amp;ssl=1\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Georgeatcounter.jpeg\" alt=\"Man working in restaurant leans to his left as he smiles at patrons across the counter.\" class=\"wp-image-168315\"  \/>George Motz at work in his New York restaurant, Hamburger America. Motz\u2019s monthly burger special for May is the Cheesy Western, from Roanoke\u2019s Texas Tavern. Motz has featured the tavern in every edition of his book, \u201cHamburger America: A State-by-State Guide to 220 of the Greatest Burger Joints Across the Country.\u201d Courtesy of Molly Bullington.<\/p>\n<p>Eating an experience<\/p>\n<p>Motz, a onetime director of photography in film and television, was equally inspired by author Jack Kerouac, of \u201cOn The Road\u201d fame, and documentary filmmaker Errol Morris, who made \u201cThe Thin Blue Line,\u201d \u201cThe Fog of War\u201d and \u201cVernon, Florida,\u201d among others. He teamed his wanderlust with his day job to helm the 2004 documentary titled, of course, \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/Mkpc5Q1Mgdc?si=9xCWcEJz7BA9qeWC\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Hamburger America<\/a>.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Many Texas Tavern diners order a double-beef Cheesy Western. Burger maven George Motz feels he has settled on his favorite, with three fresh beef discs and chile. It tastes from this perspective like one patty too many, though. Two burgers give substantial beef flavor to the bite but don\u2019t overwhelm the rest of the ingredients.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>And to be sure, Motz is right about chile atop the egg. That has long been the way to go for the best possible version.<\/p>\n<p>None of these are on the menu. Longtime Texas Tavern customers know about the joint\u2019s secret menu. Owner Matt Bullington, whose great-grandfather Nick Bullington opened the place in 1930 and brought both the relish and the chile onto the menu, let Cardinal News in on some of those items.<\/p>\n<p>The Travis is named for a bartender who used to stop in after a late-night shift to find longtime TT employee Cecil Spradlin waiting to take his order. \u201cHe started getting the Cheesy Western with grilled ham on it, and then he liked to get hot dog chile on it, so we started calling it the Dirty Travis,\u201d Bullington said.<\/p>\n<p>The Diesel Dog is a hot dog wrapped in an egg and a slice of cheese, then all the toppings. \u201cSee, that one you need to serve on a plate,\u201d he said. \u201cWe normally sell hot dogs on wax paper. That\u2019s definitely a plate one. That\u2019s a pretty popular one.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The Jumbo Jumbo is two double-meat cheesies stacked one atop the other, \u201ckind of like Big Mac-style,\u201d he said. \u201cI don\u2019t have too many people order that one anymore. I named it after a guy who used to work at the VA who would come in and get one of those, plus a pint of chile and two hot dogs with a large buttermilk for lunch.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>That doc spawned a book deal that took him to eateries across the United States. Motz said that his friend John Anderson, a Roanoker living in New York, told him about the Texas Tavern. Motz, trusting Anderson\u2019s opinion, headed for the Star City in 2006.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI remember the day he came in,\u201d Bullington said. \u201cAnd he was just, you know, planning on getting a burger. I was like, \u2018Well, you need to get the Cheesy Western.\u2019 He\u2019s like, \u2018Cheesy Western, what\u2019s that?\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Motz, deep in his research by the time he got to Roanoke, had partaken of many griddled beef varieties.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIn all of my travels, I had never tasted a burger like this,\u201d Motz said. \u201cIt was completely unique, and I think it was the combination of the cheese, the relish, and the egg.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>As the years passed, he has amended his cheesy order. Nowadays, he opts for three of the 1.4-ounce patties, with chile on top.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThat seems to be the platonic ideal, right there,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>But it\u2019s not simply the unique flavor he craves.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThat burger tastes so much better because of where you\u2019re eating it,\u201d he said. \u201cLocation really can define how your experience is going to taste, and without a doubt, if you sit at that dimpled, beat-up counter, beautifully aged patina on that counter, and you can hear, you could smell, you could see it all being done right in front of you. It makes it actually taste just a little bit better.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI would like to say it\u2019s like if you get a great pina colada and you\u2019re on the beach in the Caribbean, it tastes so good. There\u2019s something about the sights and the sounds and the smells and the salt air, but then when you go back and make the same exact pina colada in your kitchen at home, it never tastes the same. And so part of the flavor of the burger actually exists in the experience you can have when you\u2019re at Texas Tavern.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The Long Island, New York, native opened his own place in late 2023 to honor the vibes created in the joints he\u2019s chronicled. The restaurant, with a lunch counter that features a photo of the Texas Tavern and other spots, features his all-time favorite \u2014 the Oklahoma-style fried onion burger \u2014 a smash burger and a green chile cheeseburger, along with other luncheonette favorites.<\/p>\n<p>The menu has a spot for a rotating lineup of burgers from around the globe \u2014 singles or doubles of fresh ground chuck. Replication is a culinary science, he said.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"780\" height=\"585\" data-attachment-id=\"168314\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/cardinalnews.org\/img_8740\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/cardinalnews.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_8740.jpeg?fit=4032%2C3024&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"4032,3024\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{\" aperture=\"\" pro=\"\" data-image-title=\"168166_dickens_20260505_cheesywestern2_jpg\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Texas Tavern owner Matt Bullington (center) displays his restaurant\u2019s signature burger, the Cheesy Western, during a visit on Wednesday to New York City\u2019s Hamburger America restaurant. At left in baseball cap is Hamburger America owner George Motz, who is featuring the cheesy during May and has included the Texas Tavern in every edition of the eatery\u2019s namesake book, \u201cHamburger America.\u201d Photo courtesy of Molly Bullington.&lt;\/p&gt;&#10;\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/cardinalnews.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_8740.jpeg?fit=780%2C585&amp;ssl=1\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/IMG_8740.jpeg\" alt=\"A man displays a burger at a restaurant, while others work beside or behind him.\" class=\"wp-image-168314\"  \/>Texas Tavern owner Matt Bullington displays his restaurant\u2019s signature burger, the Cheesy Western, during a visit Wednesday to New York City\u2019s Hamburger America restaurant. At left, in a baseball cap, is Hamburger America owner George Motz, who is featuring the cheesy during May and has included the Texas Tavern in every edition of the eatery\u2019s namesake book, \u201cHamburger America.\u201d Courtesy of Molly Bullington.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe get deep into the forensics and the granular details of each one of these [monthly] burgers and make sure that we\u2019re doing it correctly,\u201d he said. \u201cThe correct bun, the correct beef, every single thing is designed to be intentionally the same.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>His version of the Cheesy Western will be slightly larger, he said, as he wants a flavor resembling the triple-meat version he prefers in Roanoke, but with two patties. His will cost $13, compared to $3.95 for the Texas Tavern version. But it\u2019s New York City, where that\u2019s a good price, Motz said.<\/p>\n<p>The city\u2019s median burger price was $21.21, the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DR7WQpKD0KN\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Bloomberg news service reported<\/a> in late 2025.<\/p>\n<p>On Wednesday, Bullington and Motz took turns slinging cheesies for a gathering of food reporters and others. Motz said he grew up cooking, learning from his mom and grandmother, so his early days as a hamburger maven held an easy learning curve when it came to preparing the sandwich for which the world knows him.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Did Motz\u2019s version hit the mark? \u201cYes!\u201d Molly Bullington replied via text message.<\/p>\n<p>In a video she shared, Motz stood in reverie with one half of a cheesy, having taken his first bite right through the center.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMmm. Oh,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWas it good?\u201d Matt Bullington said.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>\u201cYeah,\u201d Motz replied. \u201cI nailed it.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\n\tRelated stories\n<\/p>\n<p>\t<script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"The alarm rang at 3 a.m. in a room at the Hotel Roanoke, rousing hamburger impresario George Motz.&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":223412,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[35],"tags":[75,84,83,9,24,63,87785,87786],"class_list":["post-223411","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-manhattan","tag-manhattan","tag-manhattan-headlines","tag-manhattan-news","tag-new-york","tag-new-york-city","tag-nyc","tag-roanoke-zone","tag-type-4-non-daily-em"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/223411","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=223411"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/223411\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/223412"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=223411"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=223411"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-ny\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=223411"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}