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\n Ugly Baby is reopening, this time in Williamsburg.
\n Photo: Dolly Faibyshev\/Redux\n <\/p>\n
When the ferociously spicy Ugly Baby<\/a> closed late last year, it drew crowds of people to Carroll Gardens desperate to burn their tongues on nam prik korad one last time. It was a closing fans could feel good about. The chef, Sirichai Sreparplarn, a partner explained<\/a>, simply needed a \u201clong, long break\u201d and planned to work on a cookbook. It seemed he was leaving on a high note, and the blow of the loss was softened in February when former employees flipped the space into Hungry Thirsty<\/a>. Except now, Sreparplarn is back after not so long a break. Over the weekend, news of his return began circulating with the account Yes Williamsburg<\/a> spreading the word: Ugly Baby will open at 364 Grand Street. Sreparplarn\u2019s business partner, Som Kharazmi, confirms the news and says they\u2019re aiming to open early next year: \u201cNot exactly sure when, but February seems likely.\u201d<\/p>\n The 2,500-square-foot storefront Sreparplarn & Co. have taken over was until recently home to the original location of Detroit-pizza specialists Emmy Squared. It\u2019s a tough location overlooking a particularly busy stretch of the BQE and foot traffic can be sparse, though Ugly Baby never wanted for crowds. One perk of the new room is that it\u2019s bigger than the original, and the owners are asking<\/a> the local community board to approve a full liquor license \u2014 including for private parties. (The space has a basement level separate from the main dining room.) The concept will be the same, but Kharazami promises Sreparplarn will push \u201chis new menu into a wilder place.\u201d<\/p>\n The relatively remote location likely won\u2019t dissuade fans from visiting. Sreparplarn is a trailblazer for Thai food in New York, and Ugly Baby was where his reputation really grew. When the place opened in 2017, good Thai restaurants were mostly confined to Elmhurst and the surrounding neighborhoods, but by the time it closed, high-level Thai restaurants were, as Tammie Teclemariam put it<\/a>, \u201cthe norm.\u201d This has only continued to be the case, and the surprising return of Ugly Baby is yet another reason for lovers of spicy duck salad and mouth-numbing som tum to stay excited.<\/p>\n Eat like the experts.<\/p>\n Sign up for the Grub Street newsletter.<\/p>\n Vox Media, LLC Terms and Privacy Notice<\/p>\n