Remember the \u201cgood old days\u201d of the New York menswear market? Trade shows like The Collective, MRket, Project, Liberty, Pool, and Agenda catered to luxury, tailored clothing, contemporary, denim, street, and more, while seeming to compete for the trendiest, most far-flung venues (\u201cWait\u2026where is Basketball City, again?\u201d). Store owners practically had to factor cab fare into their seasonal open-to-buy.<\/p>\n
Market dynamics and rising costs in New York City posed challenges to our industry, and then COVID-19 delivered a significant blow. Yet, like any healthy organism, the New York menswear community fought back. In 2021, a group of 10 New York City showrooms established the Showroom\/Agency Consortium of New York<\/a> (SACNY) in response to the absence of major trade shows drawing retailers to the city. The group was probably best recognized for its handy map, offering guidance for those retailers venturing into the bustling metropolis.<\/p>\n That organization has evolved into the United Menswear Fashion Association<\/a> (UMFA), expanding to include even more showrooms, agents, and trade shows, as well as other key stakeholders like single-brand showrooms and public relations agencies. [Full disclosure: MR Magazine is involved with UMFA in an advisory role.] The association is now gearing up to collaborate with other fashion-related nonprofit organizations, as well as retailers. Presently, UMFA comprises over 30 diverse entities with a mission to \u201cprovide a unified voice and structure\u2014advocating for smarter coordination, modernized infrastructure, and practical approaches to technology, sustainability, and international trade\u2014ensuring that New York remains a relevant and compelling market destination.\u201d UMFA is also actively establishing relationships with the Council of Fashion Designers of America<\/a> (which primarily oversees the women\u2019s calendar) and Harlem\u2019s Fashion Row<\/a>.<\/p>\n We recently caught up with current UMFA president Joshua Jacobs of J Squared Group<\/a> and vice-president Leary Forteau of Leary Forteau Agency<\/a> to discuss the organization\u2019s long-term vision and plans for the 2026 markets.<\/p>\n \u201cOne of our main challenges is the misalignment of the menswear calendar,\u201d shares Jacobs. \u201cEverything kicks off at Pitti, leading into Milan, and overlaps with Paris. Meanwhile, New York\u2019s schedule has showrooms starting in mid-January: some showrooms are being forced to split their teams between Paris and NYC. A key goal for us is to collaborate with international players to create a cohesive calendar. \u00a0By organizing under the UMFA umbrella, we can command the clout to get a seat at that table.\u201d <\/p>\n Jacobs acknowledges the complexities of the Fall 2026 market calendar, with some showrooms opening on January 13th and others from the 23rd through the 29th. (The Dallas market overlaps with the latter part of New York, running from January 23-26, while Chicago kicks off on January 31st, presenting a tight turnaround for brands and showrooms across these markets.) The current focus is on organizing the July Spring 2027 market while growing UMFA. One aim is to secure major sponsorships to cover travel expenses for buyers, stimulating attendance at the New York market.<\/p>\n