A group of Eater editors, reporters, and social media managers descended on Philadelphia this week for the Chef Assembly conference and packed in plenty of eating and drinking along the way. Here are some of the standout dishes we tried across the city.
Rigatoni with ragu bianco at Emilia
At a media lunch, we ate our way through a good half of the menu at Emilia, the new Italian restaurant from Greg Vernick’s team. There were several excellent dishes, but my favorite was the humble-sounding rigatoni with ragu bianco ($24). When I asked what the ragu was made with, the server let us know it was a mixture of braised chicken, liver, and hearts, which came together nicely in an unctuous, gamey, flavorful sauce for the house-made pasta. It’s a dish meant for sharing, but I could have had it as my entree and been perfectly happy. 2406 Frankford Avenue, East Kensington — Stephanie Wu, editor-in-chief
The rigatoni with ragu bianco at Emilia. Stephanie Wu/Eater
It’s funny to be writing up a cake when I’m decidedly not a sweets person, but this is probably one of the best not-a-sweets-person cakes I’ve tried recently. In fact, it’s noticeably salty, with big, flaky crystals scattered across the slice; I’ll take that over sprinkles any day. With dark chocolate ganache frosting, the slice is very, very chocolatey, but not too sweet or cloying either: The cake itself has coffee for some grounding depth and sour cream for richness, moisture, and a just-perceptible-enough hint of tang. 1232 N Front Street, Fishtown — Bettina Makalintal, senior reporter
Flat rice noodles stir-fried with beef at Sophie’s Kitchen
I had to try some Cambodian food on my way out of town. I grew up eating whole fried quails and steaming coconut fish curry when I visited family in Long Beach, California. After hearing that there’s also a huge Southeast Asian community in Philly, I longed to eat that spicy, funky food again. Sophie’s Kitchen, a tiny family-run Cambodian spot, definitely fit the bill. I ordered bok-lahong, a fermented fish sauce-filled shredded papaya salad, and stir-fried meekathang, featuring flat rice noodles with beef and vegetables. The noodles had a chewy, smooth texture and a hit of intense garlic and layers of soy sauce, plus the beef was tender and flavorful. I can’t wait to come back to try the lort cha, the other most popular noodle dish on chef Sophia Neth’s menu. 522 Washington Avenue, Queen Village — Emily Venezky, social media manager
Meekathang, a wide noodle dish at Sophie’s Kitchen. Emily Venezky/Eater
Vegetable tonkatsu curry at Dancerobot
I still haven’t been able to get into Philly’s Royal Sushi and Izakaya, the wildly popular omakase with walk-in seats at the bar. But I was thrilled to visit Jesse Ito’s follow-up Japanese comfort-food spot, Dancerobot, a great vibe and a fun place for a hang. With Justin Bacharach at the helm, the kitchen turns out delicious tsukemono (like banchan), Japanese salads, a savory doughnut, and more. Two dishes stood out for me: the amberjack kanpachi with pickled Thai chiles, and the vegetarian curry layered like a terrine, with koshihikari rice, steamed spinach, and pickled onion, too. 1710 Sansom Street, Rittenhouse Square — Melissa McCart, lead editor, Northeast
Spicy crab gravy noodles at Sao
Last year, my colleagues and I were lucky enough to get into Mawn for a mega-feast, so this year, I was determined to get into chef Phila Lorn’s newer seafood restaurant, Sao. People were skeptical when I told them my plan to get walk-in seats with my friend, but we proved them wrong. Everything was a hit, but particularly the spicy crab gravy noodles, a glorious mess of thick curry sauces, spaghetti noodles, and tender crab chunks that get amplified with shrimp head oil and aonori (chopped seaweed). It’s so hearty with a nice heft of spice — I kept going back for thirds and fourths even after I declared I was done with the meal. (But also, say hello to the embroidered prawn in the bathroom.) 1710 East Passyunk Avenue, South Philly — Nadia Chaudhury, deputy editor, Northeast
Spicy crab noodles at Sao. Nadia Chaudhury/Eater
Mesmerized by the architectural beauty of the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, I followed the lead of many Saturday-night ticketholders and stepped inside to stare up at the glassy dome. I didn’t want to leave the building, so my attention quickly went to its year-old Mediterranean restaurant Leo. I snagged the last-remaining solo seat at the buzzing bar to order a quartet of fabulously fried ricotta bites that hide under a shower of freshly shaved Parm. For dessert? A free pianist performance that packed the atrium right outside. 1414 Spruce Street, Center City — Tierney Plumb, editor, Northeast
Emilia may be brand-new, but when it’s run by the Michelin-recommended Vernick team, you can expect top service and lots of flavorful Italian dishes. This is a decidedly more hip spot than their more formal restaurants, from its location in the Kensington corridor near vintage stores and coffee shops, to the simplified pasta-centric menu that’s perfect for sharing. Crispy carta di musica and braised rabbit feel at home in the low-lit trattoria, while tortellini in brodo is already a fan favorite. Serious about their role as a neighborhood eatery, tables at the front of the space will be kept open for walk-ins.
Royal Izakaya chef Jesse Ito partnered with his longtime chef Justin Bacharach on Dancerobot, a Japanese kissaten-influenced spot with dishes like French onion soup a la Japonaise, kare pan (beef-filled buns), wagyu roast beef, katsu curry, and pizza toast — the post-war Japanese classic that is exactly what it sounds like: a slice of bread piled with pizza toppings. A full bar rounds out the experience. Read more here.
From the team behind Mawn, one of the city’s most beloved and lauded restaurants, comes sibling Sao. Like Mawn, it’s influenced by Southeast Asian flavors, but unlike Mawn, it’s more focused on seafood and there’s a liquor license. That means you can have a well-made martini or glass of wine with your scallops and crab curry from James Beard Award-winning chef Phila Lorn.