Liver and onions — three words that elicit joy or dread from folks when asked if they’re fans of the classic, hearty meal with origins in various global regions, including Rome, England and Germany.
“It tastes like shoe leather,” said Karen Barker of Leechburg. “I’m not a fan. I have bad memories because my mom used to make it and even the dog wouldn’t eat it.”
Barker recently enjoyed a dinner out with friends at the Bonfire Restaurant and Lounge in Allegheny Township when the subject of liver and onions sparked heartfelt opinions at the table.
“I don’t like it, but my husband and mom are fans of it,” said Olivia Kelly of Brackenridge. “But he has to go out and get it. I’m not cooking it.”
“Oh, I love it. Oh, yes I do,” said Myra Kjanica of Tarentum. “We always made liver and onions growing up in Creighton. My dad made it. It’s a good memory for me.”
The one-pan meal ($14.49), most often featuring beef liver (liver is the largest organ found in all animals with a backbone) cooked with caramelized onions, is a staple at several area restaurants in Western Pennsylvania.
The Bonfire Restaurant server Josie Medved has never tried liver and onions but serves a “decent amount” of the dish in the Western-themed casual eatery/bar.
“I sell a lot of it. I think it surprises me because I don’t eat it, but we have tons of people who come here specifically for the liver, and they say it’s always good,” Medved said. “I’ve even had kids eating it. Maybe they think it’s steak.”
Bonfire customers Richard and Cheryl Pavetto of Allegheny Township are anti-liver and onions.
“I haven’t had it in years because my mother used to make it for my dad,” Cheryl Pavetto said. “I’m the oldest of eight children, and none of us like it.”
“My parents made it occasionally. I never ate it. Never liked it, and the taste of it is just different to me,” Richard Pavetto said. “I don’t see it much on menus either.”
The Pavettos’ daughter Tara Miller of Upper St. Clair chimed in on eating organ meat.
“I don’t like it, and I remember trying it when I was a kid and I didn’t like it,” Miller said. “But there are people that really, really like it, and it’s really good for you.”
Butcher Roger Fouse has sliced up beef liver since 1976. He works at Sprankle’s Neighborhood Market in Leechburg.
He’s not a liver fan.
“No, thank you,” he said.
Fouse said demand for the organ meat among customers has waned.
“It’s affordable and there’s not too many ‘old school’ people asking for liver anymore, but we do have our regular customers,” Fouse said. “We get customers asking me if eating liver will raise their iron.”
A half-pound of thin-sliced liver is priced at around $2.50 at Sprankle’s.
Nutritional benefits of liver include a high iron content and plenty of protein and B vitamins, according to Fouse.
Andrew Ferri is all about promoting liver and onions as manager of The Lamplighter Restaurant in Delmont.
Lamplighter server Donna Eakman of Claridge has been delivering the dish to customers there since 1972 and said she loves liver.
“I sold a lot of it back then; now, not so much. A couple here and there to older people,” Eakman said. “The kids say it’s an old people food. I order it and I like it. I get it here and I give blood all the time and I eat liver the day before I donate.”
Customers can order Lamplighter’s liver and onions ($12.99) anytime. It’s cut, sauteed, finished in a broiler and served with pan gravy and sides, most often mashed potatoes.
Server Anna Byerly of Jeannette has worked at The Lamplighter since 1971 and doesn’t dig liver and onions, but her customers do.
“People really like our liver here — it’s mixed who orders it — but not the kids,” Byerly said.
Customers are asked for their preferred liver temperature. It’s prepared similarly to a steak.
“We have been here since 1967 and the clientele have been coming here for decades, older folks, but they know the food and they know they’re gonna get a good home-cooked meal,” Ferri said. “I sell several meals of it on any given day. The staples still sell and are in demand.”
Ritter’s Diner co-owner John Velisaris walked out of the kitchen during a busy lunch shift with three plates of liver and onions.
“It’s always been on the menu. Never changed it, never took it off,” Velisaris said. “People either love it or hate it.”
At Ritter’s, regular weekly customers arrive to order up the liver and onions ($12.95) meal served with a roll and two sides.
“Customers will order it for breakfast, lunch or dinner,” said Velisaris, who goes through about a case of liver per week.
Ritter’s liver and onions isn’t floured and is prepared on a flattop grill. The liver is covered with a lid while steaming along with onions and served with homemade gravy.
Some customers add bacon to their liver and onions and get creative with toppings.
“It’s not going anywhere,” Velisaris said.