Over\u202f the course of 48 hours, the Tribune explored Philadelphia\u2019s history from the footsteps of abolitionist Richard Allen at Mother Bethel AME Church to the Underground Railroad routes of Germantown, while discovering the restaurants, bookstores and businesses carrying that legacy forward today.<\/p>\n
A two-day journey through Black Philadelphia’s history, culture, food,\u202fmusic\u202fand entrepreneurship includes visits to historic churches, Underground Railroad sites, museums, jazz\u202fclubs\u202fand Black-owned businesses.\u202fIt is a celebration of the people, places and traditions that continue to shape the city.<\/p>\n
Day One: The Foundations of Black Philadelphia\u202f<\/p>\n
9 a.m. \u2014 Starting the morning in South Philadelphia\u202f<\/p>\n
Breakfast at Comfort & Floyd\u202f<\/p>\n
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Comfort and Floyd restaurant.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
We began the weekend in South Philadelphia at\u202fComfort & Floyd, a neighborhood luncheonette\u202flocated\u202fnear East Passyunk Avenue. The caf\u00e9 combines classic breakfast favorites with a modern twist, offering a relaxed start before a day focused on Philadelphia\u2019s Black history,\u202fculture\u202fand community.\u202f<\/p>\n
The area surrounding South Philadelphia has long been home to generations of immigrant and Black communities, making it a fitting starting point for a journey through the city\u2019s evolving cultural landscape.<\/p>\n
Location: 1301 S. 11th St.<\/p>\n
Hours: Monday, Thursday\u2013Sunday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.<\/p>\n
After breakfast, we headed toward Society Hill, the home of one of the most important landmarks in Black religious history.\u202f<\/p>\n
10:30 a.m. \u2014 Visit Mother Bethel AME Church\u202f<\/p>\n
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Mother Bethel African Methodist Episcopal Church.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
Philadelphia\u2019s historic Black community is the core of Mother Bethel African Methodist Episcopal Church.\u202f<\/p>\n
Founded in\u202f1794 by Richard Allen, a formerly enslaved man who became a minister and abolitionist, Mother Bethel became the birthplace of the\u202fAfrican Methodist Episcopal (AME) Church, the first independent Black denomination in the United States.\u202f<\/p>\n
The church sits on the oldest piece of property continuously owned by African Americans in the country. For more than two centuries, Mother Bethel has served as a center for faith, education,\u202factivism\u202fand social justice.\u202f<\/p>\n
Visitors can explore the historic\u202fsanctuary,\u202fview artifacts connected to Richard Allen and learn how Philadelphia\u2019s Black religious leaders helped shape movements for abolition and civil rights.\u202f<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f419 S. 6th St.<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fMuseum tours are\u202favailable\u202fthe\u202ffirst Saturday of each month from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.\u202fand\u202fSundays from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Additional tours are available by appointment.\u202f<\/p>\n
Before leaving, we took a walk through the surrounding neighborhood, where early Black Philadelphians built churches,\u202fbusinesses\u202fand community institutions.\u202f\u202f<\/p>\n
Noon \u2014 Explore the African American Museum in Philadelphia\u202f<\/p>\n
Old City \/ Center City\u202f<\/p>\n
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African American Museum of Philadelphia.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
We spent the afternoon at the\u202f African American Museum in Philadelphia, the first institution built by a major city in the country dedicated to preserving and interpreting African American history and culture.\u202f<\/p>\n
Located near Independence Mall, the museum opened in\u202f1976 as part of Philadelphia\u2019s celebration of the nation\u2019s bicentennial. Since then, it has become a major cultural institution\u202fshowcasing\u202fthe experiences, achievements and struggles of African Americans through art, historical\u202fobjects\u202fand interactive exhibitions.\u202f<\/p>\n
The museum\u2019s collections explore topics including slavery, the Civil Rights Movement, Black migration, Philadelphia\u2019s Black\u202fcommunities\u202fand contemporary African American artists.\u202f<\/p>\n
Visitors should plan to spend at least\u202ftwo hours\u202fexploring the galleries.\u202f<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fWednesday\u2013Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.\u00a0<\/p>\n
After exploring the museum, we walked to Reading Terminal Market for lunch.\u202f<\/p>\n
2 p.m. \u2014 Lunch at Reading Terminal Market\u202f<\/p>\n
Ma Lessie\u2019s Chicken & Waffles\u202f<\/p>\n
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Ma Lessie’s restaurant inside Reading Terminal Market.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
We made a stop\u202finside Philadelphia\u2019s historic Reading Terminal Market at\u202fMa Lessie\u2019s Chicken & Waffles.\u202f<\/p>\n
The market, which opened in\u202f1893, has long been a gathering place for Philadelphia communities and\u202fremains\u202fone of the city\u2019s busiest public markets. Today, it is home to dozens of food vendors, including Black-owned businesses serving traditional favorites.\u202f<\/p>\n
At Ma Lessie\u2019s, visitors can enjoy Southern comfort food staples such as fried chicken and waffles while experiencing one of Philadelphia\u2019s most historic culinary destinations.\u202f<\/p>\n
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Ma Lessie’s kitchen.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
Location:\u202fReading Terminal Market, 1136 Arch St.\u202f<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fFollow Reading Terminal Market\u2019s current vendor schedule.\u202f<\/p>\n
After lunch, we took some time to explore the market before heading west toward University City.\u202f<\/p>\n
4 p.m. \u2014 Shop Black-Owned Businesses in University City\u202f<\/p>\n
Blk Ivy Thrift and Common Ground\u202f<\/p>\n
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Black Ivy Thrift.\u00a0\u2014 @blkivythrift Instagram.\u00a0<\/p>\n
We spent the afternoon supporting Philadelphia\u2019s modern Black entrepreneurs through a shopping route highlighting local creativity like\u202fBlk Ivy Thrift, a curated vintage and thrift shop in University City.<\/p>\n
The store blends fashion,\u202fhistory\u202fand culture by offering secondhand clothing,\u202faccessories\u202fand unique finds.\u202f<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f3605 Lancaster Ave.\u202f<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fFriday\u2013Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.\u202f<\/p>\n
Continue to\u202fCommon Ground, a Black-owned retail space featuring clothing,\u202fgifts\u202fand products from independent creators.\u202f<\/p>\n
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Common Ground.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f134 S. 11th St.\u202f<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fMonday\u2013Thursday, noon to 7 p.m.; Friday\u2013Saturday, noon to 8 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.\u202f<\/p>\n
These businesses\u202frepresent\u202fa continuation of Philadelphia\u2019s long history of Black entrepreneurship\u2014from historic neighborhoods once filled with Black-owned shops to today\u2019s generation of designers,\u202fartists\u202fand business owners.<\/p>\n
7 p.m. \u2014 Dinner in Center City\u202f<\/p>\n
Kitchen +\u202fKocktails \u202fby Kevin Kelley\u202f<\/p>\n
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Kitchen and Kocktails restaurant.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
After a full day exploring Philadelphia\u2019s historic landmarks and Black-owned businesses, we headed back toward Center City for dinner at\u202fKitchen +\u202fKocktails\u202fby Kevin Kelley, a restaurant known for its modern take on Southern cuisine.\u202f<\/p>\n
Located along South Broad Street, the restaurant combines traditional comfort food with an upscale dining experience. The menu highlights dishes inspired by Southern cooking, including fried chicken, seafood, Cajun-inspired\u202fdishes\u202fand classic sides.\u202f<\/p>\n
Kitchen +\u202fKocktails\u202frepresents\u202fa newer chapter in Philadelphia\u2019s Black culinary scene, where Black chefs and entrepreneurs are creating spaces that celebrate food, culture and community while bringing Southern traditions to a wider audience.\u202f<\/p>\n
Visitors should consider\u00a0making reservations, especially on weekends, when the restaurant attracts large crowds.\u202f<\/p>\n
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Kitchen and Kocktails restaurant interior.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f225 S. Broad St.<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202f Monday\u2013Thursday: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.\u202f<\/p>\n
Friday: 11 a.m. to midnight\u202f<\/p>\n
Saturday: 10 a.m. to midnight\u202f<\/p>\n
Sunday: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.\u202f<\/p>\n
After dinner, we continued our evening with live music just a few blocks away.\u202f<\/p>\n
9 p.m. \u2014 Experience Philadelphia\u2019s Jazz Legacy\u202f<\/p>\n
South Restaurant & Jazz Club\u202f<\/p>\n
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South Restaurant & Jazz Club.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
We ended the first night at\u202fSouth Restaurant & Jazz Club, a venue that celebrates Philadelphia\u2019s deep connection to jazz and Black musical traditions.\u202f<\/p>\n
Philadelphia has long been considered one of America\u2019s major jazz cities. From legendary musicians who performed along South Street to the city\u2019s role in shaping modern jazz, soul and rhythm and blues, music has always been central to Philadelphia\u2019s Black cultural identity.\u202f<\/p>\n
South combines Southern-inspired dining with live performances from local and visiting musicians. The restaurant\u2019s atmosphere reflects the connection between food,\u202fstorytelling\u202fand music that has defined Black cultural spaces for generations.\u202f<\/p>\n
Check\u202fthe performance schedule before visiting, as live music times vary.\u202f<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f600 N. Broad St.<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fVary depending on performances and events.\u202f<\/p>\n
Day Two: From Black Entrepreneurship to Freedom Movements\u202f<\/p>\n
9 a.m. \u2014 Start the Morning at a Black Bookstore\u202f<\/p>\n
Hakim\u2019s Bookstore & Gift Shop\u202f<\/p>\n
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Hakim\u2019s Bookstore and Gift Shop, Philadelphia\u2019s oldest Black-owned bookstore, specializes in Black literature. \u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/KAYLA BROWN<\/p>\n
Kayla Brown
\nTRIBUNE PHOTOGRAPHER<\/p>\n
We began our second day in West Philadelphia at\u202fHakim\u2019s Bookstore & Gift Shop, one of the longest-running Black-owned bookstores in the United States.\u202f<\/p>\n
Founded in\u202f1959 by Dawud Hakim, the bookstore was created as a space dedicated to African American history,\u202feducation\u202fand cultural awareness during a period when many mainstream bookstores lacked books by Black authors or about Black experiences.\u202f<\/p>\n
For decades, Hakim\u2019s has served as more than a bookstore\u2014it has been a community institution where generations of Philadelphians have found literature about Black history, politics,\u202freligion\u202fand culture.\u202f<\/p>\n
Spend time browsing the shelves, where visitors can find works from Black historians, writers,\u202factivists\u202fand educators.\u202f<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f210 S. 52nd St.<\/p>\n
Hours: Monday, Wednesday, Friday: noon to 6:00 p.m., Saturday: 11 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.<\/p>\n
After exploring the bookstore, we continued into Germantown, one of Philadelphia\u2019s most important historic neighborhoods.\u202f<\/p>\n
11 a.m. \u2014 Follow the Underground Railroad\u202f<\/p>\n
Johnson House Historic Site\u202f<\/p>\n
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Johnson House historic site.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
Travelling north to Germantown, we visited the\u202fJohnson House Historic Site, one of Philadelphia\u2019s best-preserved Underground Railroad landmarks.\u202f<\/p>\n
Built in the late 18th century, the Johnson House became a safe location for freedom seekers\u202fescaping\u202fslavery. The Johnson family, who were active abolitionists, opened their\u202fhome\u202fto people seeking freedom and worked alongside a network of activists throughout the region.\u202f<\/p>\n
The site offers visitors a closer look at Philadelphia\u2019s role in the abolition movement and the risks taken by both freedom seekers and those who helped them.\u202f<\/p>\n
Guided tours explore the history of the Johnson family, the Underground\u202fRailroad\u202fand the larger fight against slavery in Pennsylvania.\u202f<\/p>\n
Reservations are recommended, as tours are offered hourly.\u202f<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f6306 Germantown Ave.<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fThursday\u2013Saturday, noon to 4 p.m.\u202f<\/p>\n
After the tour, we continued west for lunch and a look at Philadelphia\u2019s modern Black business community.\u202f<\/p>\n
1 p.m. \u2014 Lunch at Out West\u202f<\/p>\n
A Modern Gathering Place in West Philadelphia\u202f<\/p>\n
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Barista Swags Cappuccino working at Out West restaurant.\u00a0\u2014 @outwest_philly Instagram.\u00a0<\/p>\n
After exploring Philadelphia\u2019s abolitionist history, we headed back toward West Philadelphia for lunch at\u202fOut West, a caf\u00e9 and community gathering space\u202flocated\u202fon Walnut Street.\u202f<\/p>\n
Opened by\u202fMuhammad Abdul-Hadi, founder of Down North Pizza, Out West\u202frepresents\u202fa new generation of Black entrepreneurship in Philadelphia. The caf\u00e9 was created as a welcoming neighborhood space centered around food,\u202fcreativity\u202fand community.\u202f<\/p>\n
The menu includes coffee,\u202fbreakfast\u202fand lunch options, including sandwiches,\u202fcheesesteaks\u202fand other comfort-food favorites. More than just a restaurant, Out West reflects how Black-owned businesses continue to shape Philadelphia neighborhoods today.\u202f<\/p>\n
We took some time to enjoy the space,\u202fartwork\u202fand community atmosphere before continuing the afternoon\u2019s historic sites.\u202f<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f5127 Walnut St.<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fMonday\u2013Friday: 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.; Saturday\u2013Sunday: 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.<\/p>\n
2:30 p.m. \u2014 Learn the History of Slavery\u202f<\/p>\n
Lest We Forget Slavery Museum\u202f<\/p>\n
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Lest We Forget Slavery Museum.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
The next stop on our odyssey was the\u202fLest We Forget Slavery Museum, a privately operated museum dedicated to preserving artifacts and educating visitors about slavery and the experiences of enslaved people.\u202f<\/p>\n
The museum\u2019s collection includes historical objects related to the transatlantic slave trade, plantation\u202flife\u202fand the lasting impact of slavery on American society.\u202f<\/p>\n
Unlike traditional museums, Lest We Forget was created from a private collection and focuses on creating a direct connection between visitors and the physical evidence of slavery\u2019s history.\u202f<\/p>\n
Because visits are scheduled by appointment, travelers should arrange their visit ahead of time.\u202f<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f5501 Germantown Ave.<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fBy appointment\u202fwith 24 hour notice.\u00a0<\/p>\n
4 p.m. \u2014 Reflect on Philadelphia\u2019s Complicated Past\u202f<\/p>\n
Cliveden of the National Trust\u202f<\/p>\n
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Cliveden, one of the historical sites you can visit with the Historic Germantown OnePass. \u2014 Historic Germantown<\/p>\n
End the historical\u202fportion\u202fof the trip at\u202fCliveden, a National Trust Historic Site in Germantown that explores Philadelphia\u2019s colonial history, the Revolutionary War and the lives of the enslaved people who lived and worked on the property.\u202f<\/p>\n
Built in the 1760s for the Chew family, Cliveden is often remembered for its role in the\u202fBattle of Germantown during the American Revolution. However, the site also examines the experiences of enslaved Africans and African Americans connected to the estate.\u202f<\/p>\n
Today, Cliveden\u2019s tours encourage visitors to consider the complicated relationship between freedom,\u202fwealth\u202fand slavery in early Philadelphia.\u202f<\/p>\n
The visit provides a meaningful conclusion to the weekend by showing that Black history is not separate from Philadelphia\u2019s story\u2014it is central to understanding it.\u202f<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f6401 Germantown Ave.<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fVary seasonally; check the current tour calendar before visiting.\u202f<\/p>\n
6 p.m. \u2014 Finish With Something Sweet\u202f<\/p>\n
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Banana Mousse restaurant.\u00a0\u2014TRIBUNE PHOTO\/LEAH DUFFY<\/p>\n
Before ending your weekend, make one final stop at\u202fBanana Mousse\u202fin West Philadelphia.\u202f<\/p>\n
The dessert shop offers homemade treats, including banana pudding,\u202fcakes\u202fand other sweet creations. The stop\u202fprovides\u202fa final opportunity to support a Black-owned neighborhood business while reflecting on the many ways Philadelphia\u2019s Black community continues to shape the city\u2019s food,\u202fculture\u202fand economy.\u202f<\/p>\n
Location:\u202f5602 Spruce St.<\/p>\n
Hours:\u202fMonday, Wednesday\u2013Sunday, 2:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.\u202f\u202f<\/p>\n
Black Philadelphia is more than a moment in history<\/p>\n
Black Philadelphia is not preserved only behind museum walls or historic markers. It lives in\u202fthe music\u202fplaying inside jazz clubs, the conversations happening in neighborhood bookstores, the meals served in family-owned\u202frestaurants\u202fand the entrepreneurs creating new spaces across the city.\u202f<\/p>\n
A weekend may only offer a glimpse into Philadelphia\u2019s Black history, but each stop tells part of a much larger story \u2014\u202fone of\u202fresilience,\u202fcreativity\u202fand community. From the fight for freedom centuries ago to the businesses and cultural institutions thriving today, Black Philadelphia\u202fremains\u202fa vital force in shaping the city\u2019s past,\u202fpresent\u202fand future.<\/p>\n