The weird and the wonderful have combined to create a magical watering hole at Pearl.
James Beard Award-nominated chef Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin, of Best Quality Daughter fame, debuted her new bar, Jue Let, in the former home of Blue Box Bar in November. It’s a sensory thrill ride: a mirrored chicken’s-foot chandelier overhead, two private karaoke rooms, a circular mirrored entrance to the restrooms and a custom fortune-telling machine lighting the entry.
Since opening day, Dobbertin and her team have been bombarded by boisterous and enthusiastic patrons craning their heads to take in all the detailed (and often sparkling) design elements. The bartenders are typically in overdrive, shaking and stirring a wide array of inventive cocktails, including one that proved to be an instant hit.
The Divine Intervention is a refreshing citrusy sip, but the drink itself is only half the fun. The beverage comes with a Chinese I Ching coin that serves as a token for the fortune-telling machine, dubbed The Cabinet of Changes.
The machine is a one-off designed in partnership with Austin-based hardware and software developer Alan Watts of Meow Wolf fame. Users insert the coin, focus their intentions, and spin a dial. After a few seconds of flashing lights, The Cabinet of Changes spits out a slip of paper with fortunes such as, “Generosity multiplies returns. Blessings snowball when shared. Karma loves kind hands.”
Jue Let serves an array of inventive modern and classic cocktails.
Dobbertin has earned acclaim for blending her Chinese heritage with a Texas touch; those accolades include multiple James Beard Award nominations for Best Chef: Texas and an Emerging Chef of the Year nod.
She continues that approach at Jue Let, where Asian ingredients find their way into the drink and food menus. The Mint Jue Let, for example, looks like a classic bourbon-based mint julep, but it works green tea shochu, coconut and jasmine into the mix.
The new bar is named for Jue Let, the private chef for James Beard’s family.
“When I was researching James Beard, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that a Chinese immigrant had such a strong influence on his upbringing and the trajectory of his culinary career,” Dobbertin said. “I felt it was important to pay homage to that.”
Patrons may recognize a familiar face moving through the high-style space. Industry veteran Elisabeth Forsythe, who’s left her mark on numerous bar programs across the city, helped develop the cocktail menu as beverage director.
That’s resulted in an inventive twist on a dirty martini dubbed Soup for My Family. Inspired by classic clam chowder, the drink is built around a soup-washed blend of gin and vodka that smells of the sea and tastes of brine. It’s served with a small plate of clams, crispy pancetta and a cube of pickled potato. It’s a million miles from New England in distance, but right on the shore in spirit.
Guests received a sneak peek of the new Pearl bar Jue Let on Nov. 18.
Jue Let doesn’t have a large food menu, but the items you’ll find are memorable. Best Quality Daughter chef de cuisine Alan Nelson developed the snacks, which present as grown-up versions of childhood favorites.
The Baozone, for example, combines tomato sauce, mozzarella and pepperoni in a garlicky bao roll to form the most elevated Hot Pocket you can find in any bar. The Cease and Desist tucks khao soi curry chicken, noodles, pickled mustard greens and more into a crispy folded tortilla that eats eerily similar to something from a Taco Bell run to the border.
Of course, this is Pearl, so there must be a touch of flair. If whimsical nibbles aren’t your thing, go for the Oscietra caviar service. Jue Let offers several variations, including the Imperial, served with Korean potato chips, Chinese chives, house-made crème fraîche and chopped tea egg.
Jue Let
2107 Emma Koehler at Pearl
210-201-2672
juelet.com
Hours: 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily