When “Papa” Fritz Schilo opened his namesake restaurant in San Antonio in 1917, I would be hard-pressed to believe that even he would think his spot would still be going strong well into the 21st century. However, that’s exactly what Schilo’s is doing.
At 109 years old, Schilo’s proudly holds the distinction as the oldest restaurant in the Alamo City and is a San Antonio icon.
Papa Fritz got started in business with a saloon in nearby Beeville in the early 1900s, before packing up his family for San Antonio in 1914. Around that time, Mama Schilo, as the official restaurant history denotes her, began serving her customers some classic German dishes to the saloon’s patrons.
At 109 years old, Schilo’s proudly holds the distinction as the oldest restaurant in the Alamo City and is a San Antonio icon. (Eric Moreno for MySA)
The oldest restaurant in San Antonio
By 1917, the family shifted gears again, and Schilo’s Delicatessen was born. In 1942, Schilo’s moved to its current location above the River Walk on Commerce St. The restaurant has survived two world wars, is on its 20th presidential administration, and has seen San Antonio grow into one of the largest cities in the country.
I’ve been making regular visits to Schilo’s for years. It’s where I first developed my love of German food, and it is my all-time favorite restaurant in downtown.
Recently, I returned for a late afternoon lunch. The dining room was still like it always has been, with dark wooden floors, wooden benches, tables, and chairs. The ceiling still has the same white tiles, the wooden bar still sits at the far end guarding barrels of their signature root beer (more on that shortly).
The walls still bear traces of the old saloon days, as they’re decorated with old beer signs and mirrors. In the very back, you can still find traces of the building’s former tenant, a bank, in the back of the restaurant, where the walk-in cooler used to be a vault.
In 1942, Schilo’s moved to its current location above the River Walk on Commerce St. (Eric Moreno for MySA)
What to eat at Schilo’s
While the menu has been spruced up a bit over the years, the fare that has made it famous remains. This includes that signature root beer I mentioned.
In 1920, Prohibition was instituted across the United States. Papa Fritz was able to pivot once again. Out went kegs of beer, and in came kegs of homemade root beer. Served in a frosty mug, the beverage is sweet, crisp, smooth, and oh so refreshing. It’s darn tasty!
I also ordered another of their signature items, split pea soup. Warm, velvety, savory, and brimming with umami, the soup is the perfect starter for any meal. I’d already made up my mind about my entrée before I arrived. Schilo’s does three kinds of schnitzel, which is my favorite. Think of schnitzel as the chicken-fried steak’s European cousin.
I opted for the traditional wienerschnitzel (veal that’s battered and fried) and a side of mushroom gravy. Offered two sides, I went for the tangy red cabbage and the three-cheese spaetzle, which is akin to German mac and cheese.
For me, this was the perfect meal. Not a scrap was left behind. The schnitzel was crispy, the spaetzle was delightful, and the slightly sour red cabbage cut through the savoriness of it all, giving perfect balance. After downing two glasses of root beer, I snagged an order of their homemade cherry cheesecake for the road.
If you’ve never visited Schilo’s, you really owe it to yourself to give it a try.
This article originally published at Inside the oldest restaurant in San Antonio, a 109-year-old Texas staple.