At first glance, The Bread Club in Dallas is a beautiful pastry shop adored by Instagram influencers. Rightly so: The brothers who own The Bread Club were at the center of the Dallas foodiverse last year when their restaurant Mamani earned North Texas’ only new Michelin star.
News that The Bread Club opened in early March 2026 sent star-chasers running, and social media photos show just how charming this new Uptown Dallas restaurant is. And yes, The Bread Club will be the popular girl in Dallas for the foreseeable future. She’s gorgeous. She lives in the right neighborhood.
But also — and don’t make a whole thing of it, OK? — she’s smart.
Behind the pastry case out front, where pistachio pain suisse and chocolate-chunk cookies sit pretty, is a quiet, serious kitchen. Bakers have been here since 3 or 4 a.m., mixing dough to make the restaurant’s baguettes, country bread and Tuscan flatbread for lunchtime sandwiches.
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The chocolate croissants at The Bread Club come in the shape of a sideways B.
Azul Sordo / Staff Photographer
This is not the bakery in a movie, where chefs toss flour and sing. No, these early risers are obsessively working on one task, like cutting spools of Valhrona chocolate-laminated pastry dough, which will be used for the shop’s chocolate croissant.
Each one is shaped like a B for Bread Club. Cute, yeah? Don’t let it disguise the work that went into it.
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Baking director Peter Edris moved from New York to Dallas to open The Bread Club. He said anyone can be a baker. “I find good humans first, and then I teach them,” he said.
Azul Sordo / Staff Photographer
Baking director Peter Edris is a 27-year baker who leads the kitchen in a calm but resolute manner. It had been a tough morning, where one variety of bread didn’t have the right rounded edge. Edris’ mind was racing on how to make it better. The temperature in the room, 71 degrees, was fine. The humidity, 67%, was good. He needs to work with the oven.
Edris put his hands on the table nearby, fingers spread like he was playing the piano. “The difference between good and great is in the details,” he said.
“Yesterday, everything was perfect.”
Today, some loaves of bread will go in the trash.
Edris moved to Dallas from New York City, where he created the bread program at Charlie Palmer’s erstwhile restaurant Aureole, then was lead baker at Frenchette. Edris hasn’t had a car or a license since 2010 — and he hasn’t gotten around to getting one in car-obsessed Texas. He walks to work, which makes the 3 a.m. start time easier. Often, he’s up before the alarm.
“I’ll wake up and have ideas,” he said. “Sometimes, I just can’t sleep.”
Dallas’ bread-culture problem
Edris can still remember the smell of the bread his mom made at home when he was a kid in rural Pennsylvania. He used to toss a loaf around the living room like it was a football. Maybe he was always meant to be a baker, he mused.
When Edris agreed to make the leap to Texas, to open a bakery owned by SMU grads and brothers Henry and Brandon Cohanim, he saw a wide-open opportunity.
Sprouted quinoa is one of the breads customers can buy and take home from The Bread Club, a new bakery in Dallas.
Azul Sordo / Staff Photographer
“In Texas, we don’t have a bread culture,” he said in no uncertain terms.
He isn’t speaking about cute coffee shops that serve croissants and matcha. He’s talking about bread: Items like house-made Milanese with saffron, Parmesan and crispy rice that Bread Club customers can buy and take home. He’s talking about sprouted quinoa, country loaf and focaccia, the three served at Mamani, chef Christophe De Lellis’ Michelin-starred restaurant next door.
Customers can and should visit The Bread Club for croissants and cookies. Edris calls The Bread Club’s pastries “the face of the place.”
But, he said, “I’m hoping that we get people to come in here specifically for bread.”
The Bread Club in Dallas makes the bread and pastries for 1-star Michelin restaurant Mamani next door. The Bread Club’s pastries include a flower-shaped pastry called ensaymada, a blood orange danish (top right) and a butter pecan croissant.
Azul Sordo / Staff Photographer
He mills much of the bakery’s “character” flours like Sonora Wheat and Ryeman Rye in a tiny, wooden device about the size of a Mr. Coffee machine. He showed us how golden-color Mediterranean Wheat goes in the hatch on top, and out slides flour, silky like white sand.
Mediterranean wheat (pitured) will get ground into flour at The Bread Club in Dallas. Then, it will be made into schiacciata, a Tuscan flatbread.
Azul Sordo / Staff Photographer
Brandon Cohanim (left) and Henry Cohanim (right) own The Bread Club in Dallas. They hired Peter Edris to be baking director.
Azul Sordo / Staff Photographer
The Bread Club sources this wheat from a farm in West Texas. Bins below it are labeled with varieties of wheat, two types of corn, rye and brown rice. A spokeswoman will point out that Edris is sourcing and milling flour in a way that others haven’t done in Dallas. Edris doesn’t brag. The guy soaking, steaming and roasting grains, then scrutinizing the aromas, seems unbothered by how everybody else in Dallas is, or isn’t, making bread.
The oven, a $115,000 investment, dings.
Edris steals a glance at a dozen or two golden batons rising at eye level. A lead baker walks in his direction, ready to help.
“That was the oven telling us they’re done,” he said, “but they’re not.”
Even with this many machines and humans in The Bread Club’s kitchen, it needs a boss.
The Bread Club is at 2681 Howell St., Dallas. Open seven days a week for breakfast and lunch. Closes at 5 p.m. on weekdays and 4 p.m. on weekends.