“Cat litter buckets are the best-kept secrets in cycling,” Paul tells me as we drink coffee on the back porch of St Mark’s Episcopal Church, where he’s just spent the night sheltering from Saturday night’s storms.
Megan echoes, “They are water-tight, and fit perfectly as panniers on almost any kind of bike.”
“Panniers?” I ask. “The storage containers mounted on the sides of bikes. Mostly used for bikepacking in our country, but also for daily commuter needs around the world. Which makes them perfect for our mission,” Tawny explains.
Paul, Megan, and Tawny are part of a non-profit called Bikes Across Borders (bikexborders.org) that has been riding from Austin to Mexico for the last 26 years. Their mission is simple and beautiful: “to build solidarity partnerships by promoting autonomous transportation & cultural arts.”
Most participants on the US side spend the year fixing up and kitting out bikes. A partnership with the Yellowbike Project provides participants with the space and know-how to build and maintain bikes to not only survive the journey to Mexico, but also to deliver transportation that the recipients can count on and maintain themselves. The resulting Rocinantes tend to be sturdy steel frames with simple, offthe- shelf brakes and derailers and come with their own lights, locks, and repair kits.
“So what are you doing in San Marcos?” I query.
“We’ve fallen into the rhythm of riding to Monterrey or Piedras Negras on alternating years. This is a Monterey year, and so we ride down to San Marcos before jumping on 123 toward Seguin. In the early years, we were part non-profit ride and part performing arts tour,” Paul explains.
“Performing arts?” Tawny laughs, “Yes, puppet shows and variety theater in every town we stopped in.”
I look curiously at the cat litter panniers. “But not anymore. Now we mostly support the arts along with autonomous transportation. This year, we’re partnering with an artistic indigenous population in Monterey, so we’re not only delivering bikes, but also musical instruments.
Again, I look to the kitty litter storage containers as if they were Tardises from Dr. Who (bigger on the inside).
Anthony jumps in, “We have a box truck that will be joining us tomorrow, and they’re hauling all the instruments and our portable kitchen.”
“Cool,” I say, “so what exactly is your route?”
“Uhh. Austin, San Marcos, and Seguin,” Tawny starts.
“Then there’s a stop in Beeville, too,” Anthony throws in.
“Ohh, and we’re crossing over in Reynosa this year,” Isabell adds.
“And then some places in Mexico,” Paul finishes.
I grin at their sense of adventure.
Megan finishes, “This is partly a mission of solidarity, but it’s also a testament to possibility. People think you need $3,000 bikes and fourperson support teams to ride long distances, so we also want to show you can get out there on a $100 bike with your friends and see the country in a brand new way.”
“Amen.” I say, and then, “happy trails from San Marcos.”
Photos courtesy of Christian Hawley