Chicken noodle. Matzo ball. Menudo. Nearly every country and culture has its soupy bowl of comfort perfect for chasing off a cold, a hangover or anything else that might be ailing you.
In Vietnam, that soup is pho. It’s a relative newcomer to that country’s culinary scene, emerging in the early 20th century. It’s even more of a newcomer to San Antonio, not gaining traction here until after the Vietnam War, or the Resistance War against the U.S., as it’s known there.
Pho is built around a base of light but intensely fragrant and deeply flavorful beef broth made from bones, oxtails and other cuts perfumed with warm spices such as cloves, star anise, fennel, cinnamon and cardamom. Bouncy rice noodles provide a satisfying heft, and meats — including thinly sliced steak, long-simmered brisket, meatballs and gelatinous beef tendons — offer a boost of protein.
And then there’s the customization of it all. Pho, at least as it’s served across San Antonio, typically comes with a side plate of bean sprouts, fresh cilantro, sliced jalapeńo, lime wedges and other aromatic elements to brighten the bowl. Sweet hoisin sauce and fiery Sriracha are frequent companions.
However you chose to dress it up, here are five spots across the city to give this bowl of beefy bliss a try.
Chin’s Garden: Top-shelf pho is a recent addition to this North Side staple that’s been in business for three decades. And new operator Kim Dinh knows what she’s doing, as the owner of the small chain Pho 4 Star. The menu here sprawls across China, Thailand and Vietnam, and the roster of pho dishes is one of the longest in town. You’ll find familiar favorites in beef, meatballs, tendon and more, but the real star is pho served with a hulking whole beef rib comically hanging over the edge. 16535 Huebner Road, Suite 118, 210-492-7117, chingarden.com
Pho Hung Cuong Restaurant serves pho with a slightly sweet broth.
Pho Hung Cuong Restaurant: This spot is all about the broth — and has been for more than 40 years. It’s deeply beefy, with a heady aroma of spices and fresh herbs, and has a slight sweetness that gives this version a distinct taste. The rice noodles are exceptionally bouncy, with a perfect texture that easily will outlast your appetite. 12730 Frontage Road, 210-691-1500, phohungcuong01.com
Pho Sure is a solid option for pho in the Medical Center area.
Pho Sure: If a pho craving kicks in between visits to the doctor’s office, this Medical Center staple is the place to go. The tender thin-sliced beef is a must; add some of the well-done flank steak for an extra beefy boost. Pho Sure has seafood and poultry options, and is one of the few Vietnamese restaurants with a vegetarian broth option on tap. 8822 Huebner Road, 210-589-7967, phosuretx.com
Pho Win has an extensive menu with many seafood options.
Pho Win: If you want all the options, Pho Win can take care of you. The usual beefy options of steak, brisket and tendon are all there. Poached chicken breast or slices of grilled chicken also are available. They don’t hold back on seafood, either, with a choice of shrimp, squid, fish balls and imitation crab meat. The sidecar of garnishes includes a few sprigs of Thai basil, giving this bowl a distinct aroma. 12830 Silicon Drive, Suite 102, 210-731-2917, phowintx.com
Snow’s Vietnam Restaurant is one of the longest-running spots for pho.
Snow’s Vietnam Restaurant: If you know any Vietnamese restaurant in San Antonio, it is probably this one. You’ve likely driven past it and its vintage “Viet-Nam” sign dozens of times while cruising up Broadway. Come for founder Snow Eisenhower’s famous crispy spring rolls, stay for the pho. It’s soothing, soulful and fragrant, with a fresh whiff of the oodles of chopped cilantro, scallions and slivered red onion swimming on top. 3244 Broadway, 210-822-7461, no web presence