On the newest episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler seeks perspective on this week’s Michelin Guide announcement from three local experts:
Misha Govshteyn, a Houston entrepreneur who’s visited Michelin-starred restaurants around the worldBrianna McClane, a freelance writer who contributes to CultureMap
June Rodil, CEO of Goodnight Hospitality, a Houston hospitality group with three restaurants in the guide: March (one star), Rosie Cannonball (Bib Gourmand), and The Marigold Club (recommended)
The panel begins by discussing how much Michelin seems to know about Texas based on the updates to the guide, which included five new Bib Gourmands and nine new Recommended restaurants, bringing Houston’s total to 44 entries. Although Govshteyn notes that Michelin’s preferences for high-end French and Japanese fare, especially as expressed via tasting menus, make it feel like the organization sees Texas through a “pinhole,” Rodil is feeling a little more optimistic.
“It’s such a huge state. Not only is Houston diverse, but the state is diverse. When you think about that, I think it’s going to take a lot of time to have a foothold on what the identity is to the organization,” she says. “I’ve been eating and working in the state of Texas for 20 years. I still have so many things to learn.”
While Michelin is easy to criticize — no one knows where the inspectors are based, when they visit, or how many times visit restaurants before deciding what level of recognition to award — it does play an important role in recognizing ambitious restaurants that are constantly striving for excellence.
“A lot of times you see people see that next new shiny thing. It’s wonderful to have a list that goes back to restaurants and ensures they’re still maintaining that standard as well as bringing up new restaurants,” Rodil says. “It’s a daunting task. I think it could be 10 years before we have that synergy between the organization and the state.”
Five new Houston restaurants earned Bib Gourmand designations. Courtesy of Houston First Corporation
Eventually, they discuss some of the restaurants that are missing from the guide. Govshteyn knows that Camaraderie seems well suited to Michelin, given chef-owner Shawn Gawle’s pedigree of working at Michelin-starred restaurants in New York, Chicago, and San Francisco.
“When I was there on Sunday, there were 22 French people in there eating tarte flambée,” Govshteyn says. If Michelin were interested in French food in Houston, they would zero in on this restaurant, but it’s not in there. I don’t understand the coverage.”
Sandler calls out the absence of all of Hugo Ortega’s establishments as well as Chinese seafood legend Fung’s Kitchen. Rodil cites Katami, the ambitious Japanese fine dining restaurant, as another establishment that’s been overlooked.
Listen to the full episode to hear the panel discuss when Texas might get its first two- or three-star restaurant. Rodil also discusses the pressure that the teams at March and Rosie Cannonball felt to maintain their places in the guide, among other topics.
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