The queso fundido at Licha’s reminds you that not all queso belongs to the same family tree. Traditional Tex-Mex queso is engineered for dipping: smooth, pourable. Queso fundido — or queso flameado in some regions — is another beast entirely. Here, the cheese stretches and pulls in long elastic strands, arriving on a sizzling skillet with chorizo, guacamole, pico de gallo and queso fresco. Tortilla chips would collapse under the weight of it, so the restaurant wisely serves warm tortillas to accompany the queso.
