New York’s famous Atomic Wings are back in Texas, this time with a much better restaurant that showcases the first-rate chicken.
A new location at 1229 Eighth Ave. in Fort Worth features Atomic Wings’ giant, all-natural chicken wings, tenders and sandwiches, spiced with Buffalo or Nashville Hot sauces.
This restaurant is completely different from the last Atomic Wings here. The company tried to bring a Manhattan take-out menu to an obscure Arlington location four years ago.
Instead of the fast-food takeout in Arlington, this Fort Worth Atomic Wings adds a small bar area with a beer selection, happy hour deals and excellent munchies such as waffle fries with queso.
It’s still a small chicken stand selling hot wings, tenders and sandwiches next door to the familar Cheba Hut subs restaurant. That’s across the street from Baylor All Saints Medical Center on what has become the “chain restaurant end” of West Magnolia Avenue.
Chicken wings and sides at Atomic Wings in Midtown Manhattan. The restaurant is opening in Arlington.
This version of Atomic Wings is much more inviting. Now, it’s focused on what the chain does best: huge chicken sandwiches, plank-sized tenders and wings tossed with a choice of 15 sauces and rubs from honey barbecue to the hottest “atomic” and “nuclear” flavors.
The nuclear flavor proved too much for host Jimmy Fallon on “The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon,” from a New York studio 3 miles from the Atomic Wings locations in Tribeca or Harlem.
There was no need to test fate on a recent visit. The medium Buffalo tenders (three for $7, or $10.99 as a combo) were plenty hot, on large chicken tenders twice the size of those at some restaurants.
A Nashville hot chicken sandwich was just as impressive, with a chicken filet so big it spilled out from a buttery brioche bun, plus slightly sweet and creamy slaw to cut the fire, and premium pickles.
It’s $6.49-$7.49, or $9.99-$11.49 as a combo. I’ve paid twice that much for chicken sandwiches half the size.
Waffle fries ($3.99) can come with firecracker seasoning or parmesan-truffle dust. But skip them both and get the white-cheddar queso.
A mural at the Atomic Wings location in Fort Worth features images of New York, Fort Worth, TCU and actor James Dean from the poster for the movie “Giant.”
It’s thinner than the queso served with chips in Tex-Mex restaurants, but it goes perfectly with the fries.
Desserts include Atomic Wings’ familiar fried Oreos.
It’s easy to see why Atomic WIngs is focusing on its very good chicken wings and tenders, not on its multiple mistakes from Arlington.
The chain tried to feature veggie burgers (!?), New York-style pizzas, gyros and salads, when it had the best Buffalo chicken sandwiches, wings and tenders this side of Buffalo Bros or Duff’s in Southlake.
The hours are good for Magnolia residents or hospital visitors. It’s open from 10 a.m. to midnight daily, 1 a.m. weekends; 940-783-5402, atomicwings.com.