As the World Cup begins, we found the most delicious, dynamic restaurants in Dallas, which is playing host to nine matches. The on-field action in North Texas kicked off on June 14 with a match between Japan and the Netherlands and continues through July 14, but these options remain well worth a visit beyond then.

Victory Park | Eclectic

Billy Can Can proudly identifies as a “dining saloon” — a point made by vintage shotguns hung on the walls, taxidermy and a mustachioed cowboy mascot. Its menu, however, offers a level of refinement beyond the saloon. Texas venison comes in the form of an egg yolk-topped tartare made with juniper, dried cherries and fried shallots. Flatiron steak is crusted in peppercorns and served in a pool of Cognac gravy. Lamb birria is reinterpreted as plump ravioli soaked in a deep red guajillo jus and salsa macha. On the drink list, Franciacorta, Sancerre and more than a dozen Texas wines are just as at home as the craft cocktails. CLAIRE BALLOR

2386 Victory Park Lane, Dallas; 214-296-2610; billycancan.com

Farmers Branch | Barbecue

When Cattelack first opened in a suburban industrial park in 2013, it quickly secured its spot in the canon of Texas barbecue. Since then, its ownership and footprint have changed, but little else has. The post oak-smoked brisket, pork ribs and links of Hatch chile and Cheddar sausage are as stellar as they’ve ever been. Sides like peppery burnt-ends beans and cakelike squares of chile-studded cornbread nearly steal the spotlight from the proteins. Sandwiches like the Toddfather and the Four Horsemen, which are piled high with multiple meats and slaw, are an efficient albeit indulgent way to see Cattleack’s range. Just grab about a dozen more napkins than you think you’ll need. CLAIRE BALLOR

13628 Gamma Road, Farmers Branch; 972-805-0999; cattleackbbq.com

Design District | Mexican

Housed in a nondescript brick building in a stretch of commercial development, this restaurant is a portal to another time and place. The moody interior, punctuated with ironwork and tile, transports you to a Mexico City hacienda. The menu, too, is well informed by Mexican tradition with handmade masa, wood-fired proteins and fish, moles and extensive lists of tequila and mezcal. The food here is sincere, and the dining room is boisterous and buzzing. Whether you order à la carte or opt for the $99 tasting menu for a comprehensive experience, don’t leave without trying the generously stuffed El Machete and a jamaica mezcal margarita. CLAIRE BALLOR

1400 North Riverfront Boulevard, Dallas; 214-277-1800; elcarloselegante.com

Old East Dallas | Eclectic

With its domed hut and cactus-filled backyard, Far Out almost feels like it’s on the other side of Texas. But the restaurant’s slow, indie spirit feels welcome here in flashy, fast-paced Dallas. The chef Misti Norris, whose pioneering restaurant Petra and the Beast was a freewheeling ode to fermentation and sustainability, keeps the flavors here just as memorable, adding pickled carrots to a rich tagliatelle pasta, marrying mojo and apricot preserves in a scene-stealing chicken. That nuance carries over to the cocktail menu, the highlights of which are two colorful frozen drinks that are — blessedly — not too sweet. PRIYA KRISHNA

All are welcome at Fond, where diners in business suits and athleisure alike gather over hot-smoked salmon with horseradish crème fraîche and Wagyu pastrami layered between marble rye. The menu at Jennie Kelly and Brandon Moore’s neighborhood bistro is as eclectic as their customers, many of whom come for the Detroit-style pizzas, the roster of natural wines and the soft-serve that changes daily (but is always topped with a drizzle of olive oil and flakes of Maldon salt). Here, no comfort food classic is left untouched by Ms. Kelley and Mr. Moore’s creative tinkering. But don’t miss the piquant pickle spears, made with red chile flakes and heaping piles of dill, that come with each sandwich. CLAIRE BALLOR

1601 Elm Street, Suite 110, Dallas; 972-803-6045, fond-dallas.com

Knox Henderson | Bistro

Gemma is a perfect aptronym for a place that has become a jewel of its neighborhood. This bistro from Allison Yoder and Stephen Rogers is serious about its food without taking itself too seriously, which has earned it a faithful following. Warm fig and smoked Gouda scones with salt-flecked butter kick off every meal. French-leaning mains such as moules frites and Italian-minded dishes like handmade pappardelle with braised rabbit are equally notable. The wine list is thoughtful and thorough, as is the service. Whether for a celebratory Saturday night splurge or a quick weeknight dinner, Gemma shines. CLAIRE BALLOR

2323 North Henderson Avenue No. 109, Dallas; 214-370-9426; gemmadallas.com

Farmers Market | Thai

When Yuyee Sakpanichkul Kaiho moved to Dallas from Bangkok, she couldn’t find food that tasted like home. So, she set out to make it herself, opening Ka-Tip with her husband and business partner, George Kaiho, in 2019 as a homage to Thailand’s street food. Ms. Kaiho, who can often be seen flitting between the cash register and the kitchen, gets many of her ingredients from Thailand. It’s an added cost, but one she is uncompromising on. Nostalgia is Ka-Tip’s guiding light. Even the not-too-sweet pad Thai and heady panang curry remain uninfluenced by Western taste buds. CLAIRE BALLOR

1011 South Pearl Expressway, No. 190, Dallas; 214-238-2232; katipthaidallas.com

Uptown | Tex-Mex

It’s not a trip to Dallas without Tex-Mex, and Las Palmas has everything you could want: goblets of frozen margaritas, smooth queso that clings to paper-thin tortillas chips, salsa that doesn’t shy away from heat and combo platters spilling over with rice and beans that scratch the comfort-food itch and taste freshly made. The reality is that there are many wonderful places to eat Tex-Mex, and every local has a favorite — but in a city that’s changing fast, Las Palmas, with its saloon-esque interior and umbrella-covered patio, feels nostalgic for a Dallas of eras past. PRIYA KRISHNA

2708 Routh Street; 214-647-1232; laspalmasdallas.com

Bishop Arts | Italian

For more than 15 years, Lucia has been widely revered as one of the best restaurants in North Texas. It’s an impressive tenure, and the Italian standout seems to only get better with age. The menu at David and Jennifer Uygur’s neighborhood spot changes constantly, but house-cured salumi and fresh pastas are always on offer, and always worth ordering. Along with unflinching consistency, Lucia’s enduring strength is its understanding of regional Italian cuisine. A recent menu featured grilled lamb tongue with tonnato, a tuna and caper sauce from Piedmont; and a semolina and roasted grape cake similar to the Torta Bertolina often eaten in celebration of the grape harvest in Lombardy. Come for the cozy trattoria, stay for the master class in Italian cooking. CLAIRE BALLOR

287 North Bishop Avenue, Dallas; 214-948-4998; luciadallas.com

A leaning tower of Rodolphe Le Meunier butter sits under a dome at the pass, carved up like a tree trunk in a love story. It’s Mamani in a nutshell: chic and poised but having some fun. The marble tables and towering ceilings lend any meal here a luxurious gravitas, though the French-Italian food has a more delicate touch. A simple tonnarelli aglio e olio is lifted by bracing levels of lemon, the duck arrives as both crisp-edged breast meat and a kebab with yogurt sauce. The desserts alone are worth a trip, especially the Paris Brest, a showstopper overflowing with lush hazelnut cream. It’s a bit bigger than the ones you might encounter in Paris. This is Texas, after all. PRIYA KRISHNA

2681 Howell Street; 469-455-1435; mamanirestaurant.com

Irving | Nepalese

Some of the best food in Texas can be found in gas stations, and in Irving, that would be at a Texaco near the airport. Tucked inside the convenience store is a family-run Nepalese restaurant, where the momos are plump, firm and expertly seasoned. Just as exciting is the section of the menu devoted to Newari cuisine, from the Newar people of the Kathmandu Valley in Nepal, laden with a rotating array of pickles, gingery black chickpeas, crisp flattened rice and peanuts tossed with chiles and onions. You may be steps from a gas pump, but it feels more like someone’s dinner table. PRIYA KRISHNA

3635 North Belt Line Road; 469-565-3944; momospots.com

East Dallas | Fusion

One of Dallas’s most eclectic menus is found at the small but mighty Mot Hai Ba. This restaurant is hard to categorize with its dishes like shaking beef, potato-scaled halibut with beurre noisette, and crab and jasmine rice-stuffed leeks with onion marmalade. It’s quite easy to love, though. The chef and owner, Peja Krstic, has a knack for intricate yet approachable dishes, many of which have become mainstays on the menu. Not to be missed are the garlic noodles and the chocolate cake made with beets to balance the sweetness. CLAIRE BALLOR

6047 Lewis Street, Dallas; 972-638-7468; mothaibadallas.com

Uptown | Korean Steakhouse

The roughly $20 million price tag on the build-out for Nuri rightfully raised eyebrows, and expectations, when it opened in 2024. Would a restaurant with $150,000 worth of silk wallpaper deliver the same effort with its food? Yes, actually, and Nuri does so while reimagining what a steakhouse can be. Korean influence is woven throughout the menu, as are subtle nods to Cajun cuisine. Instead of lobster bisque or chowder, you’ll find a deeply flavored Korean gumbo made with Akaushi beef and Spam. Instead of the typical mac-n-cheese and creamed spinach sides, there’s maque choux corn cheese and kimchi fried rice spiced with gochujang. Steaks, which range from 10-ounce fillets for $69 to 40-ounce Porterhouse cuts for $350, can be paired with sauces like miso peppercorn and gently spicy ssamjang. It’s a Texas steakhouse 2.0. CLAIRE BALLOR

2401 Cedar Springs Road, Suite 120, Dallas; 469-270-1745; nuristeakhouse.com

East Dallas | Mexican

A newcomer on the North Texas dining scene, Olōyō is already establishing itself as something special. Olivia Lopez, the chef and co-owner, explores Mexican gastronomy with heavy emphasis on seasonality and heirloom corn. Nearly everything on the pared-down menu — cocktails included — is made from scratch. Strawberries are fermented and transformed into vinegar for aguachile made with bluefin tuna brought in from Ensenada, Mexico. Dry-aged duck terrine is served with a calamansi and plantain mole and striking blue tortillas made from corn Ms. Lopez gets from Mexico and nixtamalizes herself. Speaking of that corn, the tamales that helped make her name as a pop-up chef have a spot on Olōyō’s menu. The current versions are filled with Duroc pork, blanketed in a verdant pipián and served with cubes of pickled watermelon rind. CLAIRE BALLOR

4422 Gaston Avenue, Dallas; 214-420-9976; instagram.com/oloyo_dtx

Lake Highlands | Mexican Fusion

This unassuming order-at-the-counter spot, tucked into a shopping center with a nail salon and an insurance office, has been one of Dallas’s culinary stalwarts of the past decade. Andrew Savoie, the chef and owner who worked in the kitchens of the Inn at Little Washington and Jean-Georges, seamlessly melds fast-casual sensibilities with the technical skill of fine-dining cooking. Diver scallops, foie gras, escargot, paneer, pork belly burnt ends — all are transformed into elaborate tacos with housemade tortillas. Refreshingly, the vegetable tacos, like caramelized cauliflower and slow-cooked mushroom, are as thoughtful and exciting as anything else on the menu. CLAIRE BALLOR

9661 Audelia Road, No. 112, Dallas; 972-685-5280; residenttaqueria.com

Irving | Indian

The swanky dining room can feel a bit like a hotel lobby, but the food is the real deal — a thoughtful appraisal of Indian flavors in all their vivid, prismatic glory. The kebabs are so redolent with warming spices that you’ll smell them before they hit the table, and each entree carries a distinct blend of spices that crisscross the country’s regional culinary traditions. The khichdi — India’s humble, universal comfort food — is served tableside, in a presentation that sends a clear message: Indian food is high end food, and it needs no caviar or tweezers to make it so. PRIYA KRISHNA

5250 North O’Connor Boulevard Suite 146; 972-239-1800; sanjhrestaurant.com

Irving | Indian

This cavernous canteen off Highway 635 can boast a wait-list as long as its menu. Locals clamor for the restaurant’s regional South Indian specialties from Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Kerala that teem with gunpowder seasoning, ghee and home-style charm. The dosa menu alone takes up a full page, the array of chutneys nearly a full table. Weekends bring thalis that delve deeper into local specialties — a reminder that when it comes to South Indian food, American restaurants have only just begun to skim the surface. PRIYA KRISHNA

1001 Macarthur Park Drive; 972-787-6884; simplysouth.us

Arlington | Ethiopian Barbecue

Texas barbecue meets Ethiopian cuisine in a brilliant amalgam of cultures at this casual Arlington spot. Instead of barbecue sauce, smoked meats are coated in berebere-based awaze, an Ethiopian condiment. Toasted white bread, a Texas barbecue staple, is served here, but so is injera. The spongy, gluten-free Ethiopian flatbread with its subtle sourdough tang is a perfect vehicle for scooping up spicy meats and sides like missir wat (stewed red lentils). For a taste of everything, order the Tex-Ethiopian platter for two that comes with smoked doro wat (spicy chicken stew), pork ribs, pork rib tips, brisket, injera, rice pilaf and two sides. CLAIRE BALLOR

5904 South Cooper Street, Suite 110, Arlington; 817-385-9975; smokenashbbq.net

Farmers Branch | Sri Lankan

Coconut — whether flaked inside a chile sambol, swirled into a rich chicken curry or caramelized into a delicate cake — cradles the Sri Lankan specialties at this understated slice of a Farmers Branch strip mall. The sales pitch is right there in the name — this food does not skimp on chiles and the flavors feel bright and alive. Any meal here ought to include copious hoppers, both the lacy string variety and the tissue-thin, domed ones, which double as delicious sponges for wiping your plate clean. PRIYA KRISHNA

13920 Josey Lane Suite 100; 469-629-9191; spicyzest.com

One of the most memorable (and hard to reserve) culinary experiences in Dallas is found at this 10-seat Edomae omakase bar. Standing at a long counter, the owner and chef Tatsuya Sekiguchi and the sous chef, Yoji Ishii, quietly and punctiliously prepare a 20-course meal before diners. Mr. Sekiguchi breaks focus every now and then to share details of his process and the ingredients, like water from nearby Mineral Wells used to cook the rice. Most of the courses are aged cuts of fish flown in from Japan and Spain like snapper, bluefin tuna, eel and mackerel that is subtly infused with hickory smoke. Dinner at Tatsu is $195 per person, putting it on the high end of restaurant options in the city, but it delivers. From the type of paper Mr. Sekiguchi uses to age fish to the meticulously attentive service, no detail here is overlooked. CLAIRE BALLOR

3309 Elm Street, Suite 120, Dallas; 469-271-7710; tatsu-dallas.com

As always, we pay for all of our meals and don’t accept free dishes.