Among Montrose‘s many bars, one bills itself as “the living room” of the popular Houston neighborhood: Rudyard’s, a longtime pub tucked away at 2010 Waugh Dr.

Some might attribute that reputation to its crowded concerts and comedy nights, or to Dungeons & Dragons battles around the old-school arcade machines. I’d argue that much of Rudyard’s comforting vibe comes from its food—a massive menu that draws couples, sports fans and even first-timers who show up alone with a book, as I did, just for a bite.

The bar makes its approach to the menu pretty clear on its website: “Bar food doesn’t mean sh*tty food.”

The beloved British-inspired pub originally opened on Kipling Street in 1978 before moving to its current corner spot on Waugh Drive. Since then, its cozy, lived-in atmosphere has helped make it a Montrose gathering place for occasions big and small, complete with neon signs, string lights and random skulls scattered around the bar and perched on the roof outside.

Nearly 50 years after it first opened, Rudyard’s offers far more than the expected lineup of greasy bar snacks. In fact, you may spend more time choosing what to eat than what to drink, considering the food menu is just about as long as its draft list. It covers everything from nachos, party potatoes and dips to “wiches” (aka sandwiches), salads, burgers, foot-long hot dogs and crispy Detroit- and “Houston”-style pizzas.

I went with the pepperoni pizza, the cheese pizza, tater tots and the Fancy AF grilled cheese. There’s no such thing as bad pizza, but Rudyard’s still manages to stand out with some of the best pies I’ve had in the city. Each is thick and cheesy with a crunchy crust, and the wide selection of available toppings allows you to customize your order.

As for the grilled cheese, Rudyard’s takes the simple bread-and-cheese sandwich to another level with layers of provolone cheese with Anjou pears, house-spiced pecans and pesto. The pears add a delicate sweetness, the pecans bring a spiced crunch and the pesto ties it all together with a savory finish. I’m not sure I can ever go back to a plain grilled cheese.

Even the buttery, golden tater tots on the side were amazing. I would have been happy eating a basket of them on their own. In fact, one customer did, when she ordered a basket with a side of gravy.

And Rudyard’s makes it easy to come back for more: Every dish is priced under $20.

While game days and weekly events draw larger crowds, Rudyard’s also has a steady trickle of regulars stopping in to eat or picking up takeout— like  on a random, gloomy Tuesday when I found myself seated at the bar between a couple on a date and one person watching soccer. Others came and went for the two-pizzas-and-a-pint special.

If Rudyard’s really is Montrose’s living room, its wide-ranging menu of classic comfort food, served by the chatty bar staff that approach each guest more like friends than customers, helps make the bar feel a little more like a dinner table. Whether you arrive with a small craving or a hearty appetite, there’s plenty of reason to pull up a seat and stay awhile.