On a weekday morning after La Barbecue received a Michelin star, the line was as long as it typically is on a slammed Saturday (speed is not the restaurant’s strong suit). The saucy pork ribs were as good as that classic gets: moist pink meat under a bright, lightly sweet crust that didn’t dominate. And the two regular beef offerings—humongous short ribs and gently smoked brisket with a gorgeously rendered fat cap—were neck and neck. Those who don’t want the heavy stuff can order the smoked turkey breast, which is discreetly seasoned with just enough salt, black pepper, and garlic to keep it interesting. And, because no one can live by meat alone, there are sides to fill in the gaps, like shells and cheese in a goopy American-and-cheddar sauce and acidic cucumber kimchi.
