Since 2023, Brian Knowles has been serving coffee from a tiny stand at Hyde Park’s Baker Center—first out of a trailer, then out of a boiler room he converted into a coffee window. The property is a former school turned community center, and from behind the register he has a clear view of the one-time band room, a low brick structure with wide windows. Inside, the room is awash in natural light.
“I stared at it for three years thinking how cool it would be as a wine bar,” Knowles says. “For me, it’s inspired by the building. I wanted to make a wine bar that fit this spot that already existed without trying to change it too much.”
Named for a song by The National, Terrible Love has become a Hyde Park insider favorite. Each morning, a line forms along the bushy lavender and primrose, giving the tiny coffee stand an “if you know you know” charm. Now, Knowles is expanding with Terrible Love Wine Bar, a natural wine spot that opens Friday, Sept. 18.
Photo by Grace Arnold.
While some wine bars are long on pretension, the vibe at Terrible Love is much less fussy. Visitors can sip wine in the open, mid-century-decorated space, or take glasses out to picnic tables in the garden.
“I just want it to be really community-focused, a place for people in the neighborhood to hang out,” the owner says. “I tried to furnish it with comfy furniture. I don’t want anybody in a hurry to get out of here.”
Knowles had the vision, but he is the first to admit he’s not a wine expert, which is why he tapped wine director Kendall Jackson, who shares his commitment to making wine more welcoming.
“I came to wine later in life than some, so I’ve created the wine program at Terrible Love with approachability in mind,” explains Jackson. “It’s important to me to create a space where people feel comfortable enjoying and learning about wine regardless of how much they know.”
Photo by Grace Arnold.
More experienced natural wine nerds will find plenty of gems on the bottle list, including lesser-known producers from regions in Japan and Palestine, while the lengthy by-the-glass list is divided into intuitive categories like “Bold Rosé” and “Juicy Red” that are friendly to anyone still figuring out what they like.
“We have an extensive and dynamic by-the-glass program so that guests can try new and different wines every time they visit,” says Jackson.
In addition to wine, the bar offers a selection of vermouths, aromatized wine meant for slow sipping. “I fell in love with vermouth in Spain and order it any time I see it on the menu,” Knowles says. “It’s more popular in the Northeast. Any time I visit New York, restaurants will have five to 10 on the menu, which isn’t very common here.” Distribution is more limited in Texas, but Terrible Love is opening with four vermouths on the menu.
The new wine bar also fits into a broader vision for the Baker Center, which is owned by Alamo Drafthouse co-founders Tim and Karrie League. The couple purchased the property from the Austin Independent School District with the goal of converting the historic school into a creative community space. Knowles even credits Tim with the original idea to transform the boiler room into a coffee shop.
“They really want this whole area to thrive,” Knowles says, “and they get a lot of credit for being creative and willing to take a chance.”
Terrible Love Wine Bar opens Sept. 18 at 3908 Avenue B.