NORTHLAKE

Yes, the Shark Club is a sports grill and bar from Vancouver, Canada.

But it has plenty of food for any Texan.

Dallas Stars hockey owner Tom Gagliardi has plopped down a sports grill, two hockey rinks, basketball courts, pickleball and more at a StarCenter smack dab in the middle of open pasture, east of Interstate 35W in the neighborhood best described as Buc-eesLand.

The Shark Club is a well-equipped sports bar with Canadian roots, but don’t let that fool you.

Like at his Moxie’s restaurant in Southlake, the menu appeals to local diners who want something a notch better than chains.

I mean, what other sports grill serves butter chicken with naan? Or Thai chili chicken? Or street tacos with barbacoa?

Thai chicken at the Shark Club sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas. Thai chicken at the Shark Club sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The Shark Club serves all of the above, plus copious quantities of the usual chicken wings, burgers, nachos and brunch items on weekends.

The restaurant is tucked into the east corner of the hockey and basketball complex in Northlake, officially at 13850 Chadwick Parkway a half-mile east of Texas 114.

On practice nights and weekends, it’s busy, and whenever there’s an event like the semi-pro Texas Scorpions’ games.

But it’s still brand new, and word hasn’t gotten around yet. So it’s usually easy to find a table for dining or game-watching.

The Shark Club sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas, is in a new development facing vacant and Texas 114, The Shark Club sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas, is in a new development facing vacant and Texas 114, Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

The Shark Club seems to be noted across Canada for a not-so-Canadian tradition: chicken nachos.

First of all, they’re huge. I mean, big enough to feed a hockey team.

The “keg” of nachos comes in a large platter with fresh-tasting chips, cheeses, tomato and a generous helping of fresh-cut jalapenos guaranteed to warm you on a cold Vancouver night.

Chili-lime chicken nachos (with extra jalapenos) at the Shark Club sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas. Chili-lime chicken nachos (with extra jalapenos) at the Shark Club sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

Notably, the chicken is not some pre-cooked fajita strips. It’s shreds of chili-lime chicken full of chili flavor, a complement to the peppers.

The large platter comes with guacamole, oddly served in a dip bowl but with decent flavor. I’d ask for more cheese — the dish is dominated by the chips, although they’re good. Unfortunately, the salsa and queso are lacking.

The same chicken-lime chicken also comes on a large quesadilla. The menu also offers a monthly taco special.

From the “signatures” section of the menu, the Thai chili chicken bowl is a basic stir-fry of chicken, peppers, onions and cilantro in a mild Thai chili sauce.

The Shark Club sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas. The Shark Club sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

It’s much better than at some restaurant chains, and the chicken is soft and flavorful.

Other signature dishes include the South Asian butter chicken in curry, New Orleans jambalaya and Texas Frito pie with housemade chili.

The desserts are limited so far to banana pudding or a cookie with ice cream and chocolate sauce. The youth teams practicing at StarCenter will want more.

The Shark Club is a sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas. The Shark Club is a sports grill and bar at the StarCenter complex in Northlake, Texas. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com

And yes, there are salads including a Southwest salad with poblano-jalapeno dressing.

There’s also a kids’ menu with a burger, chicken tenders, pizza or a chicken quesadilla.

The weekend brunch menu includes bacon-cheese tater tots with an egg, French toast and a “big Texas” breakfast with bacon, sausage, eggs, tots and French toast.

.The Shark Club opens weekdays at 11 a.m., weekends at 10 a.m., and is open as late as 11 p.m. or midnight weekends for the after-game crowd.

Shark Club sports bar sells bar appetizers, burgers, handhelds and cocktails. Shark Club sports bar sells bar appetizers, burgers, handhelds and cocktails. Courtesy of Shark Club Shark Club sports bar in Northlake sells American bar food in a 37 TV atmosphere. Shark Club sports bar in Northlake sells American bar food in a 37 TV atmosphere. Courtesy of Shark Club
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Fort Worth Star-Telegram

Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat.
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