El Mercado specializes in Mexican bowls packed with any number of ingredients.
Polly Anna Rocha/MySA
The Portico at Shaenfield is livelier than ever now that several restaurant concepts have filled out its first level, including Bitelo Brazilian Steakhouse, Crepeccino and Box St. All-Day. Two fast-casual concepts that recently debuted at the emerging shopping center seem promising from afar, so I stopped by the Far Northwest Side hub to give them both a try.
Makirrito
First up, Makirrito is combining the best of both worlds to create a menu of sushi burritos. This minimalist eatery is simple and clean inside, with sushi posters on the walls. The dining area has plenty of seating and lighting to fill the space. Makirrito offers several specialty sushi burritos to choose from, or you can make your own from a list of proteins, ingredients and sauces.
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Makirrito at The Portico.
Polly Anna Rocha/MySAPolly Anna Rocha/MySA
Every Makirrito creation can be served as a burrito or a bowl, but it just felt right to order it burrito-style. I went with the Tulum sushi burrito ($16.99), which was wrapped in nori and filled with tuna, salmon, wonton chips, mango, masago, greens, edamame, sweet corn and guacamole. After paying, I grabbed extra sauces from a nearby counter and plopped down at a table.
The burrito arrived in a paper container with a tearable strip down the middle that split the roll into two halves when pulled. Once I split the giant sushi roll, I saw a beautiful cross-section of ingredients, an array of colors and shapes, waiting to be eaten. The salmon and tuna were fresh and complemented well by the bits of sweet mango, but many of the ingredients fell out of the burrito throughout the meal, making me wonder if the bowl might’ve been the way to go.
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Tulum sushi burrito from Makirrito.
Polly Anna Rocha/MySA
El Mercado
Next door to Makirrito, El Mercado is all about the bowls, or at least about filling them with Mexican ingredients and flavors. This restaurant has a little more going on inside, including brick walls and dividers that split the dining room into sections. Like its neighbor, this new restaurant also has a menu of chef’s options, or you can build your own bowl if you want something tailored to your tastes.
During my visit, I stepped up to the counter and ordered the Chicken Macho Bowl, which included chicken, pasta, roasted potatoes, fire-roasted corn, salsa macha, salad and ranch dressing for $11.90. I paid, took an order number and found a table to wait while my bowl was being made. Only a couple of minutes later, a worker brought over my food.
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El Mercado at The Portico.
Polly Anna Rocha/MySAPolly Anna Rocha/MySA
The bowl was massive, and I don’t say that lightly. It was an absolute unit of chicken, pasta and everything else, and the single bowl alone could feed me and at least one other person. Each bite had something different, whether in flavor or texture, but the overall profile was creamy, rich and a little tangy. The ranch dressing overpowered most of the dish, but the salsa macha would sporadically take over, delivering hints of smoky heat.
Final thoughts
At around $17, Makirrito was an expensive option for a speedy lunch, but the Tulum burrito was a tasty delight despite its price tag and flimsiness. El Mercado proved to be the more affordable option, but once you take price out of the equation, the two restaurants are so similar in their business models and delivery methods that choosing between them comes down to what you’re craving.
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Chicken Macho Bowl from El Mercado.
Polly Anna Rocha/MySA
Both fast-casual eateries offer creative takes on the cuisines they draw from, and time was never a problem when ordering. El Mercado and Makirrito are perfectly positioned to serve the lunch-rush crowd, though the latter may be harder on the wallet. If you live or work in the area, either spot is worth a short trip.
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