Even though Austin only has the fifth largest population in Texas, its restaurants have made a Texas-sized impact on the national scene. The Robb Report, a luxury lifestyle publication, has named three Austin eateries on its list of the 100 Greatest American Restaurants of the 21st Century: Uchi, Franklin Barbecue, and Birdie’s.
Just about anyone who’s dined in Austin could guess Franklin Barbecue or Uchi would be on the list, but both is quite an achievement. And Birdie’s, which only opened in 2021, may represent a vanguard for accessible fine dining. It seems that four years is enough to convince the publication, even though no other Texas restaurant made the cut.
Franklin Barbecue placed the highest at No. 17. Texas has plenty of great barbecue, but if any pitmaster were to represent the state to the rest of the world, it would be Aaron Franklin. And this write-up by Robb Report culinary editor Jeremy Repanich does something many overlook in recognizing Franklin’s wife, Stacy, as an important part of the restaurant’s origin.
“[Franklin Barbecue] would grow into a brick-and-mortar location that drew long lines every day, and eventually, it became the epicenter of the modern barbecue movement,” Repanich writes. He also adds, “And Aaron was more than willing to spread the gospel of great brisket, sharing his techniques through numerous profiles, books, and a PBS show. And now the barbecue revolution has grown far beyond him, with multiple Texas joints earning Michelin stars, further cementing barbecue as a vital American cuisine.”
The report also quotes San Francisco chef Val Cantú in calling Franklin Barbecue a representation of the “culinary American dream” and Austin’s Nixta owner Sara Mardanbigi saying “[Franklin] opened up the door for the modern interpretation of barbecue.”
Uchi did the opposite for sushi what Franklin did for barbecue: rather than starting a movement that went nationwide, Uchi brought more worldly Japanese cuisine to Austin and paved the way for the city to become a sushi town.
“Back in 2003, inside an old bungalow that used to house a French restaurant, [Tyson] Cole opened his Japanese-inspired restaurant that serves seafood flown directly from Japan,” Repanich writes. He wraps it up: “Upon its 20th anniversary a few years back, Texas Monthly declared Uchi had revolutionized the Austin restaurant scene and brought national attention to the Texas capital that it hadn’t seen before.”
Finally, the newcomer. Birdie’s has been generating lots of buzz in the past few years, mostly for its business model that breaks with tradition by using counter service to dole out fine dining. Chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel are also a powerful pair, both of whom have earned impressive accolades for their respective work.
“The married duo opened their spot in 2021 with the hope of upending traditional business models by making a counter-service restaurant with no reservations that was still chef-driven and hospitable,” Repanich writes. “The idea paid off: People formed lines down the block waiting to dine on Malechek-Ezekiel’s fare — which she describes as seasonal American food with French and Italian influence — and to order from Arjav’s well-curated wine list.”
The absolute best restaurant in the country this century according to Robb Report is Alinea in Chicago, a New American restaurant that innovates in everything from molecular gastronomy to how reservations are made. If Repanich is into that, perhaps San Antonio’s Nicosi, known for fantastical desserts and a no-phones policy, will be on the next version of the list…presumably in 2050.