The memories of youth come hard and fast for Leo Davila.

Taking the bus downtown with his grandparents. Walking through the elegant St. Anthony Hotel. Hearing his grandmother recall beautiful dances and gowns in the ballroom. Getting introduced to hotel dining in Peacock Alley. 

Thirty years later, Davila blinks in wonder. The James Beard-nominated chef has returned to a childhood haunt to launch a new restaurant, Esencia, at the St. Anthony.

“This is a full-circle moment,” Davila, 41, said Wednesday. “My grandparents were coming here when they were kids, young adolescents. It’s pretty cool that I get to bring my style of food into such a historic property like the St. Anthony. It’s been here since 1909.”

Designed to reflect the Chinese and Mexican heritage of its chef, Esencia will feature a menu that is unapologetically local (barbacoa and Big Red tacos) and globally inspired (tartare-style Wagyu-spiced beef and beets).

Esencia’s Wagyu steak and frites will be a signature dish of the new St. Anthony Hotel restaurant that is projected to open this winter. Credit: Courtesy / Clint Walker, Charlie Walker Creative

The opening timing is intentionally vague — “this upcoming winter,” the hotel says. But Davila is a little less ambiguous. “As of right now, winter 2025″ rather than the first part of 2026, he said. “Light a candle, say a prayer and push us to the finish line. We’re so close.” 

Esencia will feature 130 seats, a two-level dining room and three private dining areas: the Main room with Spanish decor and a 14-foot mahogany table for 14-16 guests; the Shanghai room with Asian-inspired elements for up to 20 people; and the Mezzanine, which seats up to 40 with access to the balcony patio. 

The beverage program will offer a mix of Asian spirits, tequilas and mezcals, Texas whiskeys, beers and cocktails. There will be a diverse wine selection from Texas, the West Coast, Mexico and select worldwide producers.

Esencia will occupy the same space held by Rebelle, the hotel restaurant that closed in January after years of controversy and litigation involving a former general manager and previous management. 

The restaurant represents Davila’s second launch at the hotel. He opened Anacacho Coffee & Cantina in April.

“We are thrilled to unveil Esencia to the public soon,” St. Anthony General Manager Maria Martinez said in a statement. “The restaurant is a natural extension of our hotel’s legacy and of San Antonio’s vibrant culinary culture. Esencia is not only an exceptional amenity for our hotel guests, but also a gathering place for our San Antonio community.”

Esencia at the St. Anthony Hotel will offer a variety of Asian, Mexican and Texas spirits on its drink menu. Credit: Courtesy / Clint Walker, Charlie Walker Creative

St. Anthony is a AAA four-diamond property. Its restaurant will showcase a diverse menu of prime Texas beef, wild game, Gulf seafood and fresh heirloom vegetables, along with Spanish, Mexican and Asian dishes from Davila’s youth.

“My grandma, as they say, could turn water into wine,” Davila said. “We’d be running through the house, all hungry, asking what we had for food. We wouldn’t see much in the kitchen or in the pantry but magically, something always materialized.”

Grandma’s potatoes often appeared. Those potatoes have inspired a signature dish at Esencia: carne asada frites served with Wagyu ribeye, avocado salad, Asian chimichurri and potato pave.

“Potato pave is a classic French dish that is also referred to as the ‘thousand-layer potatoes,” Davila said. ”It is a true labor of love to achieve all of the layers in a well balanced bite. The chef needs to use a mandoline, at a precise thickness, to ensure even layers throughout the entirety of the dish. Every layer of potatoes receives a cream and butter bath with seasoning. It’s a long process that shows dedication and craftsmanship.” 

The son of a Hispanic father and Chinese mother, Davila masterfully blended two cultures in the kitchen at Stixs & Stone, a since-closed Mexican-Asian fusion restaurant. At the hole-in-the-wall spot with eight tables, Davila earned a James Beard nomination for Best Chef: Texas in 2025. 

The “Arroz Con Pollo” dish from Esencia, the St. Anthony Hotel’s new coming restaurant led by San Antonio chef Leo Davila. Credit: Courtesy / Clint Walker, Charlie Walker Creative

The move to St. Anthony presented a creative challenge: What should his team name the restaurant? 

“We kicked around calling it ‘Stixs downtown,’” Davila said. “But after going through ideas and names, ‘Esencia’ came up. Something about it called to me. What is the concept here? It’s the essence of San Antonio.”

The essence of Davila’s youth was often magical. Aromas wafting through the house. Cooking lessons from his grandparents. Roasted chicken on Sundays. Two cultures in the kitchen. And yet, he didn’t always fit in with his peers.

“Growing up in San Antonio, not a lot of people looked like me,” Davila said, “I’m not Chinese enough. I’m not Mexican enough. I’m not San Antonio enough. I’m not an authority on San Antonio. But I want to give you a point of view of what the city means to me. 

“What excites me the most is being able to bring our style of dining to downtown San Antonio.”