The force behind San Antonio’s only Michelin-recognized Jamaican restaurant is a James Beard-nominated chef— Nicola Blaque.
Blaque started The Jerk Shack as a 600-square-foot, hole-in-the-wall with a walk-up window and picnic tables. Within a year, the easy-to-miss spot off West Commerce Street was named one of America’s 16 Best New Restaurants.
Accolades poured in like rain. Upon learning the James Beard Foundation had named her a semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas, Blaque went online to look for an answer.
Who is James Beard?
She had no idea.
The Jerk Shack has since moved to a larger space — 2,700 square feet — on the city’s far West Side. And the awards keep coming. The restaurant earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand, the guide’s recommendation for high quality and good-value cooking, in 2024 and 2025.
On this week’s episode of the bigcitysmalltown podcast, host Cory Ames joins Blaque in The Jerk Shack to discuss her remarkable journey from military veteran to acclaimed chef and the challenges of bringing authentic Caribbean cuisine to San Antonio.
In addition, Ames and Blaque examine the evolution of local food culture, the city’s eagerness to embrace new flavors and the collaborative spirit among San Antonio chefs.
They also explore:
• How to bridge cultures and reclaim identity through food
• What it takes to build a local restaurant, including obstacles, opportunity, and community support
• The importance of chef collaboration in fostering a diverse food ecosystem
• Reflections on parenthood, legacy, and the next chapter for Black and Caribbean cuisine in Texas
The episode examines the resilience needed to thrive in an uncertain economy and and what the future might hold for San Antonio’s culinary landscape. It also explores Blaque’s immigrant roots: She arrived from Jamaica as a young girl in a military family and found it difficult to build connections.
“From 5 to 18, I really struggled with my identity and who I wanted to be and who I wanted to be around,” she said. “And I joined the Army. And the only thing … that I really felt like truly connected me to myself or my family or anything, was food.”
Watch or listen to the full episode here:
