These days, it feels like every new restaurant wants to become a destination-worthy venue. Appealing to social media users and out-of-town tourists is an easy-to-understand priority when you consider today’s rent prices and operational costs in general, but there’s something refreshing and brave about a restaurant that wants to serve its own neighborhood above all else. Rocco’s, an Italian joint recently launched in North Loop, ditches Resy table bookings and influencer marketing in favor of a locally driven, IYKYK service model with plenty of charm to spare.
Rocco’s is the creation of chef Nicholas Ford, who came to Austin from the Northeast and started using his Italian American cooking skills as part of the McGuire Moorman Lambert restaurant empire (at Sammie’s and Favorite Pizza, specifically). Ford clearly draws inspiration from cities like Brooklyn and Boston, where casual, family-style pasta restaurants using recipes developed by Italian nonnas flourish. Anyone who’s spent time in these cities – or Midwestern equivalents like Chicago – will recognize the dim lighting, the dark polished wood, the framed vintage photos on the walls, and the very relaxed energy. When I visited, I dined amongst groups of friends and colleagues, long-established couples on chill weeknight dates, and chatty local residents grabbing a solo bite at the bar. The community spirit buzzes through every aspect of this space, and it makes Rocco’s a very pleasant place to spend an evening.
Credit: Rocco’s
The restaurant is currently walk-in only, which can lead to some lengthy waits on Fridays and Saturdays. The bar features counter seating on a first-come, first-served basis, but because the area is pretty compact, groups larger than two may want to venture next door to the adorable Flourish Plant Shop & Wine Bar for a round of drinks before dinner. As far as the Rocco’s beverage program goes, this is a beer-and-wine-only establishment, and its selection leans – unsurprisingly – in an Italian direction with a focus on natural wines. A highlight of the beverage menu is the Texas Spaghett, a playful blend of light beer and Aperol that’s bright and refreshing.
Credit: Rocco’s
The Rocco’s menu is tightly curated with very little room for filler. The kitchen will rotate specific dishes out on a seasonal basis, but the current offerings include five antipasto plates, two salads, five pastas, and a single dessert. If you’re a diner prone to decision paralysis, this brief menu will make your life much, much easier. It also allows the kitchen to hyperfocus on their ingredients and preparation techniques, resulting in well-conceived dishes with impressive flavor balance.
The antipasti include Italian American staples like fried mozzarella, meatballs, and bleu cheese olives. The fried mozz is a fairly flawless bite for anyone who loves melty cheese (so … everyone). The mozzarella spills out of the enormous breaded wedges after the first bite (be careful about the temperature, as that cheese can be scalding), and the tangy marinara served alongside is a perfect counterpoint. Do not leave without ordering at least one dish of these.
I admit to having very high standards for meatballs, and I generally enjoyed the version at Rocco’s. The texture could use a touch more moisture, but the addition of ricotta cheese and that wonderful marinara sauce help tremendously. But Rocco’s makes the peculiar choice to sprinkle the meatballs with crunchy breadcrumbs, which emphasize the dryness.
Rocco’s ditches Resy table bookings and influencer marketing in favor of a locally driven, IYKYK service model with plenty of charm to spare.
Those breadcrumbs also show up on the menu’s fantastic Caesar salad, and they’re a more successful addition there. This salad is well-dressed in smooth and garlicky Caesar, the breadcrumbs do an excellent job of providing some welcome texture, and the nutty chunks of parmesan tucked throughout will never disappoint. The huge portion size encourages sharing, but Rocco’s will happily scale down to a half-plate upon request.
Credit: Rocco’s
But Rocco’s is a pasta spot first and foremost, serving house-made noodles with both meat-based and vegetarian-friendly sauces. The pastas come to the table with a tender composition; they’re certainly not overcooked, but if you really love an al dente bite, you may balk a bit at their softness. The snail-shaped lumache pasta dressed in a sauce of sweet corn, black garlic, chanterelle mushrooms, and crispy salumi stood out as a particularly satisfying dish. The savory mushrooms and the salty salumi play well off of each other; the corn adds some gentle sweetness; the lightness of the sauce lets the pasta shine through; and the big plume of grated parmesan on top mixes in nicely for an extra layer of salt and richness.
A surefire crowd-pleaser will definitely be the rigatoni with vodka sauce. The tube-shaped pasta holds its structure better than any of the other pasta shapes, and the tomato-heavy sauce boasts an almost creamy consistency with a nice undercurrent of spice. I could have done without the large volume of sliced onions spread throughout the sauce; a finer dice would allow for better integration, but I did enjoy the sprinkling of breadcrumbs over the top.
Credit: Rocco’s
Meat eaters will likely gravitate to the casarecce, which is tossed in Rocco’s signature Bolognese. Like the vodka sauce, the Bolognese features tomato as its primary flavor note; the meat seems almost incidental by comparison. But the noodles themselves cling to the sauce perfectly. I highly recommend opting for the optional scarpetta add-on, which involves several slices of Sour Duck bread intended to swipe through the leftover sauce on your plate. The bread’s tang matches up well with the Bolognese, and the hands-on nature of scarpetta drives home the comfortable, family-style vibes here.
Your only dessert option at Rocco’s (at present) consists of a plate of very serviceable cannoli filled with smooth and mild mascarpone and rolled in chocolate chips and pistachios. These simple Italian American pastries hit a nostalgic chord for those of us who grew up in our nonna’s kitchen helping her stir a giant pot of Sunday sauce while snacking on sweet treats from the local Italian bakery.
The Rocco’s experience is comfy, uncomplicated, and very warm. I can’t help but feel jealous of North Loopers who can walk over on a Monday night – because yes, they’re open on Mondays – for a plate of pasta and a glass of wine, and I hope that those lucky locals will show it the love it deserves.
Credit: Rocco’s
This article appears in December 19 • 2025.
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