Pitmasters say rising beef prices, fierce competition and thin margins are making it harder to survive in Texas’ booming barbecue scene.

HOUSTON — The business of barbecue in Texas is getting tougher. Rising costs, thinner profit margins and increasing competition are putting pressure on pitmasters across the state. Some barbecue restaurants are expanding, but others are shutting their doors.

Texas Agriculture Commissioner Sid Miller says record-high beef prices are one of the biggest threats to the industry.

“Consumers are going to start backing off the amount of beef they eat at these prices,” Miller said.

That shift could have major implications for one of Texas’ most iconic food traditions.


A booming and crowded barbecue scene

For pitmaster Grant Pinkerton, barbecue has been a lifelong passion.

“I’ve had a passion for meat my entire life,” Pinkerton said.

Pinkerton started smoking meats at just 12 years old. In 2016, that passion turned into his first brick-and-mortar restaurant in Houston. But the barbecue world today looks very different than when he first started.

“It’s drastically different now,” Pinkerton said. “Craft barbecue is everywhere.”

The popularity of Texas barbecue has fueled a surge of new restaurants across the state. But with that boom comes fierce competition.

“Now you can throw a rock and hit a pretty decent barbecue joint,” Pinkerton said.

That competition can be brutal.

“If you put two barbecue spots next to each other, they’ll get better, but one will probably close too,” he said.


A tough business with razor-thin margins

Despite the challenges, Pinkerton’s business continues to grow. This year, he opened his third restaurant. But he acknowledges that the restaurant business especially barbecue is notoriously difficult.

“It’s not an easy business,” Pinkerton said. “Things can get away from you extremely quickly in this business, especially in barbecue. It’s a razor-thin game.”

Across Texas, more than a dozen barbecue restaurants have closed in recent months, according to industry reports.


Rising beef prices driving costs higher

One major factor: the price of beef. The United States cattle herd is currently the smallest it has been in more than 75 years. That shrinking supply has driven beef prices sharply higher.

Prices are up about 13% over the past year alone.

Barbecue restaurants are feeling the squeeze.

“We’re a market-driven menu,” Pinkerton said. “When beef goes up, the price goes up.”

Customers are noticing the difference.

“Man, I could get a beef rib for $18,” said Houston barbecue fan Louis Marshall. “Now you’re going to pay $30.”


A Texas tradition facing new pressures

At Pinkerton’s restaurants, customers still line up for brisket and ribs even with higher prices. But even some of the state’s top pitmasters wonder how long consumers will keep paying more.

“Barbecue is sacred,” Pinkerton said. “It’s a part of who we are. It’s important it’s preserved and that we prioritize it.”

Texas barbecue may be a cornerstone of the state’s culture, but for many pitmasters, staying in business has never been tougher.