NEW YORK
The smoke has yet to rise from the new Kirbee’s restaurant in Brooklyn, but excitement is building for New York City’s latest Texas craft barbecue sensation.
“Two Texas Barbecue Megastars Are Opening an NYC Restaurant,” the headline screamed on Eater New York, with a photo of nationally known Lockhart pitmaster Teresa “Chuck” Charnichart’s ribs and brisket.
Co-owner Jonny White of Arlington, a founder of contest-winning Goldee’s BBQ, doesn’t even have the keys yet to the former fried chicken stand that will become Kirbee’s.
But he has a plan.
“If i paint it red and the windows white, it’ll look exactly like Goldee’s,” White said last week as cars passed the new restaurant, at 55 McGuinness Blvd. South in Brooklyn’s Greenpoint neighborhood.
“I think it has the perfect barbecue vibe. All the other buildings here are squished in together, but this one’s kind of cool. When you look inside, it’s almost exactly like Goldee’s.”
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Barbecue restaurateur Jonny White, a co-founder of Goldee’s, plans to paint this former fried chicken stand in Brooklyn red-and-white and open it as a Texas-style craft barbecue place for New York. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com
White still owns another Fort Worth restaurant, Ribbee’s BBQ at 923 E. Seminary Drive.
But he moved to New York about six months ago and started looking for somewhere to smoke craft barbecue.
He grew up in Arlington and joined former third-grade classmates Jalen Heard and Lane Milne to open Goldee’s in 2020 at 4645 Dick Price Road in rural Tarrant County south of Kennedale.
In 2021, Goldee’s was ranked No. 1 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s “50 best BBQ joints.”
“I just always wanted to live here,” he said — “I’ve spent my whole life in Texas.”
As if you couldn’t tell from the headline, Texas barbecue is hot.
Pitmaster Chuck Charnichart in her ays at Goldee’s Barbecue. facebook.com/goldeesbbq
The new Michelin Guide ratings for both Goldee’s and Barbs, Charnichart’s Lockhart restaurant, drew even more attention.
Michelin named Charnichart, a former pit cook here at Goldee’s and also at Zavala’s, as Texas’ “most promising young chef.” The New York Times called Charnichart and Barbs the “best new reason” to visit Lockhart.
Bon Appetit said she is “reshaping Texas barbecue.” Food & Wine listed White and the Goldee’s team among the “best chefs in America.”
A combo platter at Goldee’s BBQ near Fort Worth. Jonny White Courtesy of Goldee’s BBQ
White said he and Charnichart have talked about working together since she left Goldee’s to start Barbs.
Charnichart has said she plans to serve her style of brisket and dishes from her Brownsville upbringing such as charro beans and “green spaghett” (poblano spaghetti).
Kirbee’s will follow Goldee’s and Barbs’ formula of opening only for lunch and only three days a week — Friday through Sunday — until the barbecue is sold out.
Kirbee’s will also open at night as a neighborhood burger hangout, White said.
Brisket lays in the smoker before cooking at Goldee’s Barbecue in Fort Worth on Saturday, April 22, 2023. Madeleine Cook mcook@star-telegram.com
“Look around — all you see in every direction is apartments,” he said, sweeping a hand around the skyline toward the East River.
“People need someplace to go.”
Without extra space for a smokehouse, White said Kirbee’s will use smoker ovens and wood chips.
“The meat should be a little juicier, a little more tender, and a little more consistent,” he said.
The 20-24-seat restaurant is expected to open in summer.
A line may form soon.
Hundreds of folks wait in line just 20 minutes before opening at Goldee’s Barbecue for hours before opening in Fort Worth on Saturday, April 22, 2023. Madeleine Cook mcook@star-telegram.com
Fort Worth Star-Telegram
Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat.
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