In a city replete with omakase offerings, Otoko has stood the test of time. The chic Japanese restaurant on South Congress was a pioneer of the culinary trend, and its chef, Yoshi Okai, is among the capital city’s most lauded talents. Just weeks after the restaurant passed its 10th anniversary milestone, Okai has announced his departure from Otoko, and it appears that the move could spell the end of the restaurant as well.
In a somewhat cryptic and emotional Instagram post, Okai wrote, “Hard.. My heart .. tears blood.. black… Make Big Big.. Hole… never filled or found that piece again…” in an apparent lament for his departure. The finale of the caption was more clear: “End is beautiful.. 04/25 Saturday My hiatus for Otoko or forever 🖤🖤🖤 19 more Services with them 🦇⚰️ Bye bye.”
Photo by Jody Horton.
Okai was named Best New Chef by Food & Wine magazine in 2017 and has been a fixture of Austin’s food scene for nearly two decades, making appearances at marquee events like Hot Luck. Before his time at Otoko, he was head sushi chef at both Uchi and Uchiko, two of Austin’s longest-standing Japanese restaurants.
Okai was originally lured to Austin by the city’s famed music scene and only planned to stay a short time, but he was persuaded to make the capital city home after playing in a punk band called The Kodiaks with Tom Micklethwait (of Micklethwait Craft Meats).
Comments on the Instagram post by friends of the chef hint that Okai will be moving to New Orleans to pursue another opportunity. However, he hasn’t publicly confirmed that, and it’s still unclear if Otoko will try to continue without their signature talent. Reservations for the restaurant are available through the announced date of his departure, but not after—a fact that leaves Otoko’s future uncertain at best.
Replacing Okai will likely prove difficult if not impossible, as he not only prepared every bite of food at the intimate 12-seat restaurant, but also curated its impeccable music and brought an unparalleled sense of joy and enthusiasm to every service.