Ma Harper’s Creole Kitchen founder cooks with love at age 96

Alice “Ma” Harper will turn 97 in August, and the chef continues to play a crucial role in her San Antonio restaurant.

Polly Anna Rocha/MySA

Alice “Ma” Harper has been cooking since she was 12 years old, and at 96, all she has to do is glance at a batch of gumbo to know if it’s up to her standards. Today, Harper continues to steer the ship at her San Antonio restaurant, aptly named Ma Harper’s Creole Kitchen, which has been a go-to stop for Creole comfort foods for over three decades.

MySA sat down with the local legend at her treasured eatery to learn more about her story, her restaurant and what keeps Harper going after all these years. During the chat, Harper taught us that it’s never too late to start a new chapter in life — especially when you mix good recipes with a whole lot of faith.

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Ma Harper retired from a storied career to open her restaurant

For 21 years, Ma Harper was a mechanic for the United States Air Force, working on fighter jets before opening Ma Harper’s Creole Kitchen. But cooking was always a part of Harper’s life, and it’s something she learned how to do early on as the second-born of 16 children in New Orleans.

“If you from New Orleans, you know you learn how to cook ‘fore you learn how to walk,” Harper said. “Cooking comes from inward. You have to have the desire, because it’s not hard, but it’s not easy either.”

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Ma Harper’s gumbo is still some of the best in San Antonio.

Polly Anna Rocha/MySA

After her retirement, the restaurant soon followed in 1991, and over the subsequent 35 years, Harper’s recipes brought her local and national attention, with people traveling far and wide to try a bowl of her famous gumbo. 

“I didn’t really think I’d be this many years. I thought it would be one of them get-up-and-go, like a lot of folks. But it didn’t work that way. Once you get into it…it’s not easy to back off,” she said.

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Ma Harper’s gumbo is some of the best in Texas

The gumbo at Ma Harper’s Creole Kitchen tastes just like the kind you’ll find in Louisiana, with plenty of spices and fixings swimming around in a hearty roux. When asked about her recipes, Harper said they are 100% original and honed over time, so now, all she has to do is eyeball things to get the taste just right. 

“As you go along, you know what to pull out and what to put in,” she said. “I made changes, I don’t cook with all that grease I grew up with, or all that oil.”

Ma Harper’s Creole Kitchen has earned plenty of awards and achievements over its 35-year run. Many trophies, photos and memorabilia are displayed in the restaurant.

Polly Anna Rocha/MySA

The gumbo remains the best seller at the restaurant, followed by the cornbread and the red beans and rice. Harper’s top dish has earned her and the restaurant numerous accolades, including high praise from none other than Guy Fieri, who highlighted Ma Harper’s Creole Kitchen in an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. 

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In addition to good eats, Ma Harper’s effervescent personality is a big draw for her business. During our interview, Harper took a break to greet customers and take photos with people who’ve heard about her from one source or another. Despite her aches and pains (Harper shared that she has laryngeal cancer), she’s happy to meet with every person that walks in the door, a reflection of her unwavering spirituality.

God is central to Ma Harper’s mission

Harper employs her twin daughters in the restaurant, among other relatives, and a handful of her employees are individuals who have had run-ins with the law. The restaurant owner knew early on that she wanted her business to be of service to the community, and that means giving people a chance to succeed.

“When I opened up, that was the purpose, to give opportunity to those that had made a mistake and nobody understood. Everybody makes mistakes,” Harper said. “God allows me the opportunity to give them a break.”

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Ma Harper showing her shirt, which says, “Blessed by God, loved by Jesus, led by the Spirit.”

Polly Anna Rocha/MySA

Throughout our interview, Harper would beautifully and concisely express her devotion to God, sharing that every effort she puts into the restaurant is a part of her Christian faith.

“It wouldn’t be me if it wasn’t for God, and that’s why I’m telling people, ‘Don’t fret, don’t sweat. God woke you up. Ain’t through yet,'” she said. The phrase is also printed on the restaurant’s menus. To that effect, MySA asked Harper what keeps her going after all these years, and she replied, “The love that God instilled in me.”

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Ma Harper’s Creole Kitchen is open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Thursdays and Fridays, and from noon to 5 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. 

Find it: 1816 N. New Braunfels Ave., San Antonio, TX 78208