Michelin, the French tire manufacturer, has been publishing restaurant guides for 125 years in the hopes of getting people to drive farther to eat at restaurants. In year two of its Texas guide, it has proceeded apace: a slight expansion, some obvious nods, and one big surprise.
The state’s culinary superstars gathered at Houston’s Wortham Theater Center last night to find out who among them would be awarded a coveted Michelin star—and who would be able to keep those awarded in the inaugural guide in 2024. A total of 140 restaurants walked away with stars or one of Michelin’s other recognitions, such as the value-driven Bib Gourmand. But there was one big winner of the evening. The Austin-based Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group has steadily expanded its footprint over the past decade, and its concepts have caught the eyes of the Michelin inspectors. In addition to retaining a star for Hestia, in Austin; a Green Star and a Bib Gourmand for its original Austin restaurant, Emmer & Rye; and a Bib Gourmand for Ladino, in San Antonio, the group picked up quite a few new nods. Two of the three new stars this year went to some of its Pullman Market concepts in San Antonio. Isidore earned both a star and a Green Star, which honors sustainability practices, and its neighboring dessert tasting menu restaurant, Nicosi, was acknowledged with a star as well. Mezquite, a more casual Sonoran restaurant, received a Bib Gourmand.
Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group was a big winner at the 2025 ceremony.Courtesy of Michelin and Marc Patrick/BFA.com
The third new star felt like the bigger surprise. Mamani, a well-pedigreed and well-funded French (and Italian, and Persian) restaurant in Dallas, nabbed a Michelin star after opening less than two months ago. This speed is unusual, by my own restaurant-criticism standards at least. But it’s a win for Dallas, which had an underwhelming showing last year. Also representing Dallas was Chas Martin of Mister Charles, who was given an Exceptional Cocktails Award. There were notable Dallas picks I thought were missing from a guide meant to honor excellence in the state—the wonderfully personal Quarter Acre among them.
The Michelin Texas ceremony, which was upgraded to the Wortham from 713 Music Hall last year, had a few hiccups. There was the comical refusal of recipients to remove their jackets before accepting—and wearing—the Michelin jacket that came with their award, resulting in some sleeve squirming. Perhaps the most awkward moment came when Celia Pellegrini, the wine director of Austin restaurants Suerte and Este, was announced as the well-deserved winner of the Sommelier Award. Unfortunately, because of an invitation mix-up, she was not in attendance but rather at the staff party back in Austin. Wine awards often go to sommeliers at restaurants that serve European cuisines, so it was nice to see Pellegrini recognized for the concise, deliberate, and creative lists she’s curated for those two Mexican restaurants.
There were a few emotional moments. Pitmaster Chuck Charnichart of Barbs B Q, in Lockhart, was awarded a special Young Chef award. She choked up as she spoke about her parents, who are from Mexico, and being their first U.S.-born child. When Austin’s Nixta Taqueria was awarded a Green Star, chef Edgar Rico was not in attendance, but someone in the crowd hollered “UNO MEXICO!” and everyone cheered. And when Ope Amosu, owner of ChòpnBlọk, in Houston, went on stage to accept the restaurant’s Bib Gourmand, his hometown crowd went nuts.
Pitmaster Chuck Charnichart of Barbs B Q was awarded a Young Chef award.Courtesy of Michelin and Marc Patrick/BFA.com
Every guide comes with unique challenges and considerations, leaving locals to debate whether the picks are truly representative of their region. Famously, Michelin handed out stars to American-style barbecue joints for the first time ever last year. CorkScrew BBQ, in Spring, and Austin spots InterStellar BBQ, La Barbecue, and LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue all retained their stars. It was certainly an acknowledgment of Texas barbecue’s standing on the world stage, though it’s unclear what makes these restaurants excel beyond their peers or why no new barbecue spots received a star this year.
Michelin’s judgment on our state’s food scene stopped there. As is typical for early years of a regional guide, no two- or three-star awards were given. Reading the tea leaves, I predict that Texas will earn its first two-star restaurant next year. It would be right on schedule: The Michelin Guide to Colorado awarded its first two stars this year in its third guide to the Wolf’s Tailor, in Denver. The American South guide—which now folds in Atlanta, also in its third year of Michelin coverage—will be announced November 3.
Despite the anticipation and speculation, I’m not convinced Texas is a multi-star kind of place. Our restaurants, even the high-end ones, lean into an amiability that is somewhat antithetical to the severe precision of the three-star restaurants. This is a good thing. Have you seen The Menu? Michelin inspectors are anonymous and not necessarily local. It’s often unclear what they’re looking for. The guide’s Texas picks felt safe this year. Next year, who knows? We could get our first two-star restaurant. Someone could lose a star. Either way, we’re still waiting to see if the tire company truly gets Texas.
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