One Roast Restaurant in Houston Chinatown. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
Houston’s Chinatown has no shortage of Cantonese barbecue, but One Roast 壹哥烧腊 has built a sizable following in a remarkably short time since opening in April — and with good reason. The casual, counter-service eatery at 9600 Bellaire specializes in Hong Kong-style roast meats, or siu mei, served with heaps of rice and in noodle soups in generous portions and at prices that make it easy to order a little of everything. It gets especially busy during peak lunch and dinner hours, and lines can form quickly, but the queue moves at a quick pace as freshly chopped meats make their way to hungry diners.
One Roast has been drawing crowds daily. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
Cantonese barbecue is a broad ancestral and regional tradition originating in Guangdong province, encompassing a range of roasted and barbecued meats found throughout southern China. Hong Kong-style roast meats are a specific metropolitan adaptation of this tradition, perfected in fast-paced diners and specialized meat shops. There, meats are roasted on spits, in rotisserie ovens or suspended in intense, dry heat; techniques that produce the signature combination of crisp skin, caramelized edges, tender meat and rendered fat.
An order of char siu at One Roast. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
One Roast specializes in several of its most recognizable forms, including roast duck (siu aap), siu yuk (crispy roast pork belly), char siu (barbecued pork glazed with a sweet-savory sauce), barbecue spare ribs (siu paai gwat) and pipa duck, named for its resemblance to the Chinese pear-shaped lute. The meats are available in a range of portions, from regular servings to half and whole orders, with some also sold by the pound. The restaurant also offers roasted meats over rice plates, a convenient, Hong Kong-style everyday staple. Just be prepared to navigate some bones, particularly with the duck and chicken. This may come as a surprise to new diners, but they impart extra flavor to each dish during the cooking process.
Freshly chopped roast duck. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
At the heart of our meal was the roast duck, with the crispy skin, luscious meat and savory depth that makes the Cantonese-style preparation so compelling. The char siu offers a different but equally satisfying experience, with tender, flavorful pork beneath an intensely seasoned and carmine-hued exterior. Both meats are roasted to develop a characteristic glossy, lacquered finish, giving the skin and surface of each a subtle sheen that hints at the concentrated flavors within.
Ginger scallion chicken. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
The scallion oil chicken takes a gentler approach, with the supple meat carrying the scent of the scallions. It may not appear to be the most exciting item on the menu to the uninitiated, but much like Hainanese chicken rice, it is one of those dishes that, once you understand what it has to offer, makes you feel like you’ve joined a special club that values the quiet pleasures of simplicity.
The roast pork at One Roast. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
At the other end of the textural spectrum, there’s roast pork belly, where crisp, crackling skin gives way to melt-in-your-mouth layers of rendered fat and meat making each bite especially satisfying. The sauces served alongside each meat were a particular highlight, adding another dimension to already well-seasoned proteins.
Fried mantou at One Roast. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
The menu includes several other options to choose from that help tie the meal together, such as choy sum with oyster sauce, egg rolls and fried mantou, the latter of which are Chinese steamed buns crisped in hot oil until their exteriors turn golden while the centers remain soft and pillowy. They are served with sweetened condensed milk for dipping.
Shrimp pork wonton noodles at One Roast. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
The shrimp pork wonton noodle soup features a delicate, seafood-forward broth. It is the sort of dish that can easily stand on its own, but also gives the meal a welcome change of pace after the richness of the barbecue. One Roast offers 11 noodle soup options, including char siu, duck leg and barbecue meat noodle soups, with a choice of lai fun, thick and chewy rice noodles, or egg noodles.
The restaurant captures the busy, bustling energy that makes Chinatown dining so appealing. With generous portions, affordable prices, excellent sauces and premium quality, it makes a reliable stop whether you’re looking for a Cantonese-style roasted-meat rice plate, a meal to share or one that is generous enough to provide leftovers that you’ll eagerly look forward to the next day.
Roast fowl and ribs hang in the window at One Roast. Photo by Mario-Sebastian Berry.
One Roast is open daily from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. with plentiful parking in the Dynasty Plaza parking lot.
Mario-Sebastian Berry is a wine and spirits vendor who has been in the hospitality industry since 2002. Currently, he represents Blanco, Texas-based Andalusia Whiskey Co. He holds numerous wine, beer and spirits certifications including Certified Sommelier. Somehow, he also finds time to be Houston Food Finder’s associate editor and social media manager.
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