I’m a sucker for Houston restaurant lore. Sometimes, it’s a framed poster of old restaurant matchbooks. And other times, it’s an old guide to the Italian restaurants of yesteryear. One thing that piqued my curiosity the other day was a theme park-esque mural at the critically acclaimed J-Bar-M Barbecue in Houston’s East End.

BBQ World is a perky wall illustration out on the patio of J-Bar-M and is as old as the restaurant itself. According to a representative, owner John Toomey commissioned the piece as part of J-Bar-M’s big opening in 2022. Houston Chronicle barbecue columnist J.C. Reid, who also served as a consultant for the restaurant, was also involved in the mural concept..

“Reid and the J-Bar-M team brought the concept to local artist Jose Cordova, creating a nostalgic throwback to Astroworld called ‘BBQ World,'” J-Bar-M’s representative said.

The style is inspired by the old theme park maps of Six Flags Astroworld, the now-shuttered Houston theme park and funnel cake destination. Each of the “attractions” is a barbecue joint or restaurant, either closed or still operating. Toomey’s first restaurant, The Green Room Restaurant & Pub in Downtown, is on the map.

BBQ World functions as a simple, yet effective lookback at a Houston barbecue scene that had yet to find itself in the headlock of Central Texas-style cooking. While there was slow-cooked brisket, there was also brick-pit cooking, pork ribs, dirty rice and other sides that found their origins along the Gulf Coast.

One other reason the mural caught my attention is Lenox Bar-B-Q which is prominently featured here. It closed just a week ago, capping an end to a colorful business. Some of its DNA or legacy remains in the Hungry Farmers BBQ off the 610 Loop and the Luther’s Bar-B-Q chain (now Pappas BBQ).

It’s not fair to the mural, however, to ignore the ongoing life that it reflects. Otto’s, which I first had in the Downtown tunnels, is still kicking. Shepherd Drive BBQ, now Pizzitola’s, is still carrying on its brick pit traditions to a new generation. Burns Original is now a Houston-wide business.

One thing the mural reminds me of is the old recommendations book or sheet (I can’t remember exactly) that was at Underbelly, back when it was still in business at 1100 Westheimer Road in Montrose. Then owner and chef Chris Shepherd rattled off places for people to go patron after eating at his restaurant. It’s encouraging to see that same ethos, though not directly connected, play out at J-Bar-M, calling back to the other joints that collectively put Houston’s barbecue on the map.

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This article originally published at Houston’s barbecue history is painted on this East End restaurant wall.