I’ve been going to Vail all of my life. It wasn’t until a decade or so ago that I stopped to really look around and think about what makes this tony ski town different from all the rest. Sure, its soul is the lofty mountain, that eminence of tree-laden runs, wide-open sweeps, high speed zooms, big air booms and slow sliders — most oft enjoyed under snowy conditions. In fall, its trees turn golden, and the Aspen groves whisper. Summer is the time to challenge the inclines on foot or two wheels, perhaps follow the mountain’s twisty paths to a perfect picnic. 

A totally immersive physical experience, Vail kept me so active I never questioned its atmospheric architecture, a crafty doppelgänger of the Italian Dolomite town Tyrol, as storybook appealing as those mountain villages that frame the Austrian border.

 

Courtesy Discover Vail

As it turns out, the village and its appearance come with a backstory. Newly built, unlike most Coloradan ski towns — Aspen, Crested Butte, Steamboat and Telluride date back to the silver and gold mining boom of the 19th century — Vail only came to life in 1962. It was the brainchild of renowned skier Pete Seibert, who served in World War II as a member of the U.S. Army’s legendary 10th Mountain Division, a dream team of skiing soldiers. Deployed in Italy’s rugged mountain region, bunking in its fairy-tale hamlets and skiing its mountains, Seibert felt an affinity for the culture. After the war, he returned to the U.S. with a passion for Tyrol’s lifestyle. He vowed to re-create it in Colorado.

During a hike through Gore Creek Valley in 1957, Seibert found a piece of slope-dominated land that spoke to him, a terrain that summoned that Dolomite grandeur. Posthaste, he implemented his vision. Vail opened in December 1962 as a novel ski resort with one gondola and two chairlifts — all kitted out with cozy European flair. Cobbled streets wound charmingly around the mountain’s base. Stucco chalets with gingerbread woodwork, sgraffito-decorated facades and atmospheric flower boxes lent an overall air of gemütlich, unlike any other American ski town. Skiers were so entranced, they came before the restaurants opened, their impromptu parties at the mountain’s foot setting the standard for the vibrant après-ski tradition Vail practices today.

Never hammy, without a whit of Disneyland fantasy, then or now, Vail celebrates the mountain cultures of Europe, without making it a cliché. It began as a love letter to the Alps but continues as a portal to exquisite nature and an ode to the sport Seibert loved best. From dirndls to Bogner and polka music to jazz, this ski town’s a world unto itself.

 

Take a tour to learn more about the town’s abundant public art. | Courtesy Discover Vail
Beyond the Backstory

With heated sidewalks in winter to keep pedestrians from slipping and a public art scene so profound it has its own curator, Vail isn’t just about the expansive open back bowls, vast tree glades, fluffy snow and meandering groomers. The year-round destination is as much for those with a penchant for art, architecture, dining and music as for outdoor enthusiasts. Two small villages, Vail and Lionshead, compose the resort, their meandering pathways lined with myriad restaurants, galleries, shops and bars. 

What to Do

Layer up for winter. You’ll ski or snowboard — then aprés ski, of course. Vail Nordic Center facilitates activities like snowshoeing and riding fat-tire bikes. Circle the rink on ice skates or roar along the mountain paths on a snowmobiling jaunt. 

An alpine music mecca year-round, Vail in winter means spontaneous mountain pop-up acoustic experiences in various hot spots above 10,000 feet, impromptu dance parties around town and a limited concert series, at the storied Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater, called Après at the Amp. Expect feisty live music and DJs at Express Lift, mood music for snow play. Lounges and bars abound — try Shakedown.

Join a walking tour. History, culinary and nature-themed tours are offered year-round. I love the seasonal Art Tour with expert Molly Eppard, who offers an hourlong ramble to view and learn about the town’s 70-plus works of art.

Not traveling in winter? In the summer, you can look forward to activities that include fly-fishing, biking, hiking, golf, river rafting and horseback riding. The Ford Theater offers unmatched summer performances and concerts.

 

Breathe in the tree-laden runs and wide-open sweeps. | Courtesy Discover Vail
Vail Mountain Ski & Snowboard School

Best Deal Ever: Offering adults learning to ski three lessons for the price of two, including lift tickets and rentals, the ski and snowboard school guarantees guests will be making turns on green runs by the end of the second day or the third lesson is on them.

Where To Stay

Four Seasons Resorts and Residences Vail: In the heart of Vail, this sublime mid-rise hotel frames an alluring pool that calls to mind an Austrian lake. Contemporary and sumptuous, the Four Seasons Vail imparts an aura as crisp and refreshing as Vail’s own high altitude. Spacious suites and guest rooms provide havens to recover from bike rides down Vail Mountain or rushing river raft rides, hiking or skiing in season. Whatever you want to do on the mountain, a team of outdoors-savvy concierges stand by to assist. For penthouse vibes, look to the suites and residences, adorned with Alps-appropriate textures from leather to felt. Deep soaking tubs go without saying. Choose the Crestone Suite, a 1,000-square-foot dreamscape that overlooks the pool. Tavernetta Vail, award-winning cuisine with Dolomite influences and Remedy, an unmatched bar in a city of many, make the grade. The spa offers an opulently tranquil refuge.

Sonnenalp Hotel, a Leading Hotel of the World: By far the most immersive hotel in Vail in terms of the Alpine theme and Seibert’s vision, Sonnenalp has been owned and operated by the Faesslers, a Bavarian family of hoteliers, for five generations (since 1979). Like its sister hotel of the same name in Germany, this Sonnenalp is classically lavish, undisputably Bavarian and cozily pampering. You’ll note Bavarian warmth throughout. For example, breakfast at Ludwig’s transports with its huge cups of hot chocolate, served in custom, soup-mug-size Hutschenreuther porcelain — a recommended accompaniment to the expansive breakfast buffet. Swiss Chalet triumphs with its fondue feast, and Bully Ranch does burgers with Bavarian-meets-American bravado. Just walking the halls enchants here: Cuckoo clocks, mounted antlers, antique art, Bavarian tankards, hand-carved furniture and rich, hunting-themed textiles appear as assemblage art in common areas and guest rooms. Replete with an indoor-outdoor pool, a 10,000-square-foot spa, a kids club and a dedicated ski concierge, this hotel on Gore Creek in the heart of Vail makes an impression.

 

Sonnenalp Hotel is lavishly Bavarian and cozily pampering. | Courtesy Discover Vail

The Hythe, a Luxury Collection Resort, Vail: Planted in Lionshead Village, The Hythe takes inspiration from Vail’s backstory, paying homage to the 10th Mountain Division and their time in the Dolomites. Though utterly contemporary and boutique-like, the hotel embraces design elements and themes that reference Seibert and the skiing soldiers. Think old photos, ancient skis mounted on walls and a cozy chalet atmosphere. Margie’s Haas, a Tyrolean restaurant, honors a woman who shared food with the skiing soldiers in Italy. It serves soul-satisfying dishes like raclette and speckknoedel with wild mushrooms. The lively lobby bar pours locally distilled 10th Mountain Whiskey and Spirit Company tipples, while a stellar spa, cool pool and luxurious bedrooms seal the deal.

Grand Hyatt Vail: With a hidden-cabin-in-the-woods vibe, the luxurious Grand Hyatt sits creekside. Though physically set away from Vail’s buzzy nucleus, the hotel offers a complimentary shuttle that delivers guests to town in minutes. A chairlift next to the ski-in/ski-out resort services mostly guests, though it is open to all Vail skiers. Its existence underscores the retreat’s sense of exclusivity. Consult with Grand Hyatt’s peerless concierge teams. They’ll concoct a range of seasonal adventures in Vail Valley. Or stay on property for the spa, pool, gardens and s’mores fire pits. Partake of two restaurants, including Colorado’s first Makoto restaurant, known for its Wagyu Beef Hot Stone experience. Which room to book? Families will want the 900-square-foot King Suite, which boasts two bedrooms — one with bunk beds. Don’t forget Fido. Grand Hyatt Vail is dog-friendly.

Solaris Residences: Those looking for swanky penthouse-style accommodations with gourmet kitchens and resort-style services should consider Solaris Residences, a mixed-use development by East West Hospitality. Almost a village in itself, Solaris not only comprises residences that run the gamut from glamorous four-bedroom havens to slick studios, but it flaunts a Matsuhisa restaurant, chic boutiques, a pool, state-of-the-art fitness, immersive dining and bowling at Deca + Bol — among other offerings. Concierge support for activities is peerless, and the company enjoys a laudable reputation for its programs and activities. In season, sign up for the Private Backcountry Llama Lunch, an outing that involves a hike with a gentle llama and a picnic beneath the pine trees.

Where to Eat

Sweet Basil: Turning 50 this year, this contemporary French-inspired bistro spearheaded Vail’s seasonal mountain gastronomy movement, bringing some welcome ritziness to the food scene. Causally elegant, jetsetter Vail at its finest, Sweet Basil still reigns as among the village’s best.

Zuma: Vail’s newest restaurant, Zuma, with sleek interiors and its modern Japanese izakaya sharing menu, fulfills the hunger many visitors have for the au courant and trendy when in ski town.

Mountain Standard: An unpretentiously chic tavern by the creek with highfalutin food, conceived by the Sweet Basil team, Mountain Standard is a local favorite. Order the pimento cheese and rotisserie chicken.

Slope Room Vail: Breakfast people, we know you don’t live by flaxseed muffin alone. Nip into Gravity Haus’ Slope Room. With an all-day, locally derived menu, it shines for that first meal. Try the Machaca Burrito.

Tavernetta Vail: From the Michelin-awarded team of Boulder’s Frasca Food & Wine, Tavernetta opened last year at Four Seasons Vail with an array of Alpine Italian delights. Do play at the Spritz Window, a nod to Florence’s medieval “holes in the wall,” where thirsty souls can ring a bell, order a libation and watch it conveyed via a mysterious window.

 

Vail is known for its open back bowls and fluffy snow. Yet summer there is just as enticing. | Courtesy Discover Vail
Where to Shop

Gorsuch: With its upscale alpine chalet ambience, furnished with antiques, Gorsuch’s flagship shop vends luxury apparel, gear, home furnishings, gifts and more.

Perch: Like a fancy closet, this intimate, high-end women’s boutique has the most trendy brands. Ideal for grabbing forgotten essentials.

Valbruna Vail: Owned by a former Italian ski champion, this elegant boutique and skiwear venue not only offers sophisticated garb but serves complimentary Lavazza espresso.

Alpine Kind: Build your own hat at this mountain fashion store’s custom hat bar. With items for the whole family, this is the place for elevated souvenirs.

Golden Bear: Possibly Vail’s best-known boutique (since 1975), this jewelry store sells locally crafted jewelry. It’s famous for its chunky bear charms but offers many other creations.