FORT WORTH
A newcomer is challenging Zeke’s Fish & Chips’ reign as one of Fort Worth’s iconic restaurants.
If you don’t know Zeke’s, it opened in 1971.
The Dallas Observer named it Texas’ undisputed “God of Cod.” Forbes took it national as one of America’s “Best Eats for the Buck.”
Understand, North Texas is not exactly cod country.
Zeke’s actually replaced one of the region’s few 1960s fish and chips restaurants when it opened at 5920 Curzon Ave., a half-block east of Bryant Irvin Road at Camp Bowie Boulevard.
So I see why diners looking for a pub experience would be writing online that the new Henry McCarty Irish Pub now has the city’s best cod basket.
So we put them head-to-head, or fillet-to-fillet.
The verdict: Henry McCarty Irish Pub at 2869 Crockett St. in the Artisan Circle shops is the most complete day-in, day-out Irish restaurant and pub we’ve had, down to the corned beef and cabbage, shepherd’s pie and bangers and mash.
Fish and chips at 55-year favorite Zeke’s in Fort Worth, Texas, left, on Oct. 12, 2026, and at Henry McCarty Irish Pub, right. on Oct. 10, 2026. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com
Henry McCarty’s fish and chips platter ($21) comes with only one fillet, but it’s large.
The fish is sweet, soft and delicious. It’s listed as battered with beer from Howth, near the fresh fish docks outside Dublin.
This is not a big thing, but more of the crisp coating came off the fish with every bite.
French onion soup and Scotch eggs didn’t fit the lunch order this day, but both are lauded at McCarty’s for the favor and stylish presentation.
The steak fries were notably bland. A little Tabasco-Sriracha in the ketchup helped.
Zeke’s Fish & Chips has fresh paint and a new interior, seen Oct. 12, 2025, after repairs for a kitchen fire. Bud Kennedy bud@star-telegram.com
A small helping of coleslaw came with the dish. There are other sides.
Zeke’s served a smaller fillet with the same sides. But this lunch basket came at a much smaller price (the “short combo,” $11.50).
This fillet and coating remained assembled. The cod matched McCarty’s in flavor.
Zeke’s is known for fried food, so the fries were better than McCarty’s, even though neither seemed hand-cut.
(Love Zeke’s “veggie plate”: fried zucchini, fried okra, fried mushrooms and fried eggplant.)
The Zeke’s dinner also came with coleslaw and teardrop-shaped hush puppies. They’re not the beloved stick shapes that vanished from the market temporarily last year, but they’re a very good substitute.
Henry McCarty’s is a new Irish pub located in Fort Worth’s Artisan Circle, as seen on Monday, July 20, 2026. Amanda McCoy amccoy@star-telegram.com
McCarty Irish Pub again has Zeke’s beat for fancy desserts.
McCarty’s desserts include “West of Ireland” bread pudding on Jameson whiskey-infused custard ($9), a coconut custard “turtle” or a dulce de leche-filled spice cake.
Zeke’s is known for bitesize pecan brownies, chocolate-chip-pecan “Tugboat Annie” bars or 7-layer butterscotch-chocolate-coconut “magic bars,” also known as hello dolly bars.
Note that Zeke’s has a drive-through window. I’m not going to say that Camp Bowie Boulevard motorists ever turn into Zeke’s driveway just for a Tugboat Annie bar or a magic bar. But the temptation is eternal.
Zeke’s is also known for its 1970s rock soundtrack. This quick dinner included three different songs by the Doors, plus the 1972 hit “Stuck in the Middle With You.”
The inside of Henry McCarty’s mimics a traditional Irish pub with accents of dark wood, emerald green bar tiles and brass lanterns. Ella Gonzales egonzales@star-telegram.com
Verdict: Henry McCarty Irish Pub is the fanciest, most elaborate fish and chips restaurant we’ve seen. And it’s well-stocked with Guinness.
But Zeke’s is a familiar local restaurant with comparable fish and chips, bargain prices, family packs and a simple menu that also includes catfish, chicken and a distinctive chicken salad sandwich.
Henry McCarty has the flashy look and Irish pub spirit. But Zeke’s has a familiar 1970s Texas feel and budget-friendly prices.
Henry McCarty is open daily for lunch, dinner and late. Garage parking is free with validation, and street parking is free at lunch with the city FWPark smartphone app (or register at the parking meter); 817-529-6005. thehenrymccarty.com.
Zeke;s is open for lunch and dinner daily; 817-731-3321, zekesfishandchips.com,
A special at West 7th’s new bar are the Public House Pretzels with Guinness cheese sauce and mustard at Henry McCarty’s Irish Pub on Thursday, Feb. 19, 2026 in Fort Worth. Ella Gonzales egonzales@star-telegram.com 
Lemon-pepper boneless wings at Henry McCarty’s Irish Pub on Thursday, Feb. 19, 2026 in Fort Worth. Ella Gonzales egonzales@star-telegram.com 
Irish breakfast and the Jameson burger are just a few of the dishes offered at Henry McCarty’s Irish Pub in the West 7th Entertainment District. Mikalah O’Riley Courtesy photo by Henry McCarty’s Irish Pub 
Zeke’s Fish & Chips in Fort Worth, Texas, still had a pay phone and newsracks out front when it celebrated its 30th anniversary Oct. 9, 2001. Perry Stewart Star-Telegram archives
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Bud Kennedy is celebrating his 40th year writing about restaurants in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram. He has written the “Eats Beat” dining column in print since 1985 and online since 1992 — that’s more than 3,000 columns about Texas cafes, barbecue, burgers and where to eat.
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