For being a ‘Tex-Mex town,’ San Antonio’s food scene covers myriad cultures

Brasserie Mon Chou Chou offers exemplary French dining at the Pearl. Credit: Instagram / brasseriemonchouchou

In the beginning there was Tex-Mex. And it was good.

At least that’s the narrative forged in the cauldrons of San Antonio’s Chili Queens in the late 19th century and expanded over the years in hundreds of street corner restaurants and bakeries blending the rustic cuisine of Northern Mexico with the cultural influences of a newly settled Texas.

Tex-Mex cooking survives and even thrives in 21st-century San Antonio, but new culinary stars are emerging to share the spotlight — thanks in no small part to military veterans returning from global wars. Korean, Thai, Japanese. And Asian options are just the tip of the iceberg.

Here’s a sample of the many global cuisines that contribute to the new cauldron of cultures in the Alamo City.

Chinese

The first of China’s myriad cuisines to reach American shores was Cantonese. But the second wave brought the spicy-numbing foods of Szechuan/Sichuan and neighboring provinces. Dashi Chinese Kitchen & Bar was among the best of the bunch but recently closed.

Fortunately, sister restaurant Sichuan House (3505 Wurzbach Road, Suite 102, (210) 509-9999, sichuaneats.com) is more than just a backup, and many dishes are similar or the same. ccccIt’s hard to go wrong with Cucumber Smash’d or Garlicky Cold Noodles, for example — and Sweet-but-Spicy Peanuts make for good bedfellows. Then move on to Sichuan Quacker, the restaurant’s chopped duck dish, and by all means have the gingery and justly Famous Green Beans. Finally, don’t sleep on the Twice as Nice Pork Belly with garlic leeks.T hough Gansu Province touches on Sichuan, its cuisine, a major influence on the menu at Mian Noodles and Dumplings (19141 Stone Oak Parkway, (210) 267-1711, miannoodlesdumplings.com), might as well come from a different universe. As the name suggests, the call here is both hand-pulled noodles — the soupy Lanzhou Noodles stand out —and house-made dumplings such as the Pork and Scallion. Spices aren’t numbing in the Sichuan manner, but there are still surprises. Try the Spicy Bean Curd Salad for a take on soybeans you have likely never experienced.

Indian

Much of the diaspora driving San Antonio’s Indian cuisine is associated with the medical community. Makes sense that the Medical Center serves as a magnet for places such as Biriyani Pot (9386 Huebner Road, Suite 109, (210) 561-8874, biryanipotusa.com) and its elaborate rice dishes. Hyderabadi Spicy Matka (7080 Bandera Road, (210) 600-3338, hsm-sanantonio.com) can be bustling in something of a Bollywood manner, but the food is worth every decibel. My advice here is to throw caution to the wind and go for the most unfamiliar dishes such as the puffed rice Bombay Bhel or the incendiary Mirakapaya Bajji, or stuffed green chilies. The Gongura Biriyani is spicy and floral with hibiscus leaf accents. The impossibly thin pancakes called dosa may be more familiar to diners, but they’re worth ordering to savor the contrasting tastes and textures.

Shiro Japanese Bistro is among the city’s best Asian restaurants. Credit: Instagram / shiro_riverwalk

Japanese

Sushi has gained an increasing audience in San Antonio since the pioneering days of Niki’s Tokyo Inn on Hildebrand Avenue. A contender for the crown these days is Shiro Japanese Bistro (107 W. Jones Ave., (210) 585-1863, shirossan.com) near the San Antonio Museum of Art. Caviar and truffles tend to get thrown around, but if you stick to the traditional nori-rolled maki and seafood-draped nigiri, it’s hard to go wrong. One or more of the specialty rolls with “real crab” — the Toroshiro also features soft shell crab and spicy tuna — wouldn’t be remiss, either. Among the cooked options, the charcoal-seared hamachi might catch your eye. And whatever the order, enjoy some chilled sake as well.

Korean

Some of the best Korean in the city hangs out in the least pretentious places. Han Il Garden (4415 Rittiman Road, (210) 590-8889, instagram.com/hanilgardensa), is a mom-and-pop place where the kids once did duty as servers, but Mom now runs it by herself. It epitomizes the genre, and it also stands out for perhaps the best banchan — or side dishes — town. The Beef Bulgogi and Bi Bim Bap aren’t shabby, either. But considering that this is a one-woman show, call ahead to see if she’s amenable.

Restaurants associated with Asian grocery stores are a good bet too. A current favorite is the bustling Korean Market (6210 Fairdale Drive, Suite 1, (210) 646-7005). Beyond being my go-to spot for kimchee, it boasts a café in the back that’s part of the whole scene. The dining spot was once presided over by Korean grannies who delighted in telling the uninitiated what to order. Even without their help, the Kimchee Pancake is worth investigation, and there’s a killer Kimchee Soup with tofu and pork. Beef Bulgogi is probably better at Han Il, though.

Thai

Having wearied of conventional Chinese restaurant food, many of us became enthralled with Thai cuisine. It had everything: sweet and sour, coconut cool and chili heat. In time, other types of dining took hold, but it’s always a pleasure to return to Thailand. A still-good stalwart of the old days is Thai Dee (5307 Blanco Road, (210) 342-3622, instagram.com/thaideesa). Crab Rangoon always gets a pass from me, but I can easily be had by a colorful summer roll or a brimming bowl of Tom Kha soup. Green papaya salad is a must too. And then there’s green curry over crisp rice noodles or, better yet, with eggplant and basil. Feeling flush? Give the grilled ribeye Tiger Cry a run, but adjust the spice level or both you and the big cat will be crying. Another worthy contender is Thai Curry (8210 Broadway, Suite 1, (210) 888-1155, thaicurrysa.com). Check out the Thai Larb with ground chicken, the pumpkin curry and the tamarind-sauced stir fry available with the meat of your choice.

French

San Antonio has a thin, but lengthy history of French cooking. Today’s exponents are more sophisticated. That French renaissance started with chef Damian Watel in a place just off the Olmos Circle. Now at Bistr09 (6106 Broadway, (210) 245-8156, bistr09.com), Watel continues to turn out classic cuisine done the right way. It’s always a joy to go there for the hearty country paté or a half-dozen garlic-scented escargots. Watel’s way with fish makes sautéed flounder a must, though the duck confit is equally excellent. For dessert? A perfect chocolate mousse, bien sûr.

A more opulent option is the Pearl’s Brasserie Mon Chou Chou (312 Pearl Parkway, Building 2, Suite 2104, brasseriemonchouchou.com), where the must-order is the sandwich au fromage raclette, a voluptuous vehicle for melty cheese only the French could pull off. Consider, too, the lobster bisque crowned by puff pastry, the seared bavette steak with frites and, as a side, the plate of green lentils with garlic sausage. Even more rarefied is the French-inspired cuisine being turned out at 25-seat Petit Coquin (1012 S. Presa St., petitcoquinsa.com). The prix fixe menu lists only two options for each course, but the wine list is vast and quirky.

Italian

There are plenty of decent Italian and Italian-American — its own genre, really — restaurants in town, but few stand out. One that combines both ambitious food and a warm, inviting atmosphere is family-run Mare e Monte (9390 Huebner Road, (210) 267-1233, mareemonte.com). Here, the often-tired trope that is calamari fritti is actually worth ordering, as are the breaded asparagus fries. A garlicky black pasta might be on your radar, along with gnocchi carbonara. Yes, there are meatballs, but you are forgiven if you also order the creamy seafood risotto.

Do we consider that pizza, as interpreted in America, is still Italian? Maybe if made with traditional care in a domed, wood-fired oven as at Il Forno (122 Nogalitos St., (726) 444-0744, ilfornosa.com). The classic Margherita is always a good test, and with its emphasis on crust — and just the right amount of sauce, mozzarella and fresh basil — it passes with flying Italian-flag colors. Things Found Underground, which includes potato, garlic, leek and fontina, might raise an eyebrow in Italy, but from Il Forno the combo seems almost expected.

The hummus at Ladino, served with fried eggplant, will change the way you look at the dip. The hummus at Ladino, served with fried eggplant, will change the way you look at the dip. Credit: Courtesy Photo / Ladino

Mediterranean

The best of the ambiguously defined “Mediterranean” category is to be found at Pearl’s Ladino (200 E. Grayson St., Suite 100, (210) 325-6007, ladinosatx.com). Chef Berty Richter’s focus may be Israeli, but the entire eastern end of the sea in question is represented in all its multi-ethnic glory. His hummus alone, served with fried eggplant, will change the way you look at the dip, as will the puffy, not-flat breads that seem to keep coming. A kofta of beef and lamb with sour pepper salad is meltingly good, and so are the Zucchini Fritters with feta and a spicy tzatziki. Among the larger plates, the Mushroom Schwarma with peanut salsa excels, and Saffron Chicken elevates the ubiquitous fowl to a place of prominence.

South American

Yes, almost every South American nation is represented in San Antonio, but if forced to choose, Peruvian Leche de Tigre (318 E. Cevallos St., (210) 265-5933, lechedetigretx.com) would be my pick. (The recent Texas Michelin Guide thought so too.) The three brothers who run the eatery call it a cebicheria and pisco bar with an “authentic Peruvian essence.” Ceviches such as the Clasico with amberjack and sweet potato, and the Nikkei with yellowfin tuna and tamarind ponzu, certainly verify the claim. Non-pescatarian possibilities such as the Chaufa — fried rice with pork belly, Chinese sausage and egg — illuminate the other side of Asian-inflected Peruvian cuisine. Pisco inspires many of the creative cocktails. Give one a try.

For another, Caribbean slant, look to Luna Rosa Puerto Rican Grill y Tapas (910 S. Alamo St., (210) 314-2723, lunarosatapas.com) in King William. The Empanadita de Carne, Puerto Rican-style pernil, or roast pork, and the ever-appealing Ropa Vieja of slow-cooked shredded beef all stand out — as do plantains in any style.

In the end, it all comes around.

Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisines are lately being influenced by global flavors — think Korean-inflected tacos — and vice-versa. San Antonio should be well placed to participate in the new Mexican revolution. Maybe German, one of the city’s original food cultures, will eventually come around too.

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For being a ‘Tex-Mex town,’ San Antonio’s food scene covers myriad cultures

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