{"id":357012,"date":"2026-07-01T08:50:24","date_gmt":"2026-07-01T08:50:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/357012\/"},"modified":"2026-07-01T08:50:24","modified_gmt":"2026-07-01T08:50:24","slug":"the-best-dishes-houston-chronicle-restaurant-critic-bao-ong-ate-in-june","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/357012\/","title":{"rendered":"The best dishes Houston Chronicle restaurant critic Bao Ong ate in June"},"content":{"rendered":"

When PopUp Bagels<\/a> debuted in Houston a few weeks ago,\u00a0people lined up for hours to try the viral bagels that originated on the East Coast and are now expanding across the U.S.<\/p>\n

As food writers, we’re always covering what’s new because readers want it. But my dining experiences this past month reminded me that the city’s time-tested favorites – whether it’s an institution like The Breakfast\u00a0Klub or a Thai-Lao restaurant celebrating its 10th anniversary – warrant just as much attention.<\/p>\n

New restaurants\u00a0will keep opening, <\/a>and I’ll keep visiting them. But some of the best recommendations come from readers pointing me to under-the-radar gems. So tell me: Where should I eat next month?<\/p>\n

Crispy chicken skin at \u00a0 Banh Somtum<\/a>\"Crispy<\/p>\n

Crispy chicken skin at Banh Somtum. (Bao Ong \/ Houston Chronicle)<\/p>\n

When I ordered the crispy chicken skins at this Thai-Lao restaurant in far northwest Houston, I expected something like\u00a0chicharr\u00f3n: shatteringly crisp and as weightless as my favorite potato chips. They were those things, but with a richer flavor. It was as if someone had peeled the skin from a perfectly roasted chicken and deep-fried it until golden. I quickly understood why the guys at the next table, coolers full of Coronas at their feet, ordered more than one serving.\u00a013420 TX-249<\/p>\n

Chicken and waffles at The Breakfast Klub\"Chicken<\/p>\n

Chicken and waffles at The Breakfast Klub. (Bao Ong \/ Houston Chronicle)<\/p>\n

The toughest decision when visiting this Midtown institution is figuring out when to arrive so you can avoid the line that often stretches halfway down the block. I opted for an early afternoon visit in the middle of the week. Once you’re inside, ordering the chicken and waffles – or “wings and waffles,” as owner Marcus Davis calls it – is an easy choice. The wings arrive with a deeply seasoned, brittle crust that stays crisp even after a generous pour of syrup. The waffle does its job, too: light enough to soak up butter and syrup without turning limp, yet sturdy enough to stand up to the chicken. That sweet-and-savory combination is just one reason The Breakfast Klub earned a spot on our updated guide to the city’s best brunch offerings<\/a>. 3711 Travis; thebreakfastklub.com<\/a><\/p>\n

HOUSTON EATS: The Chronicle’s Top 100 restaurants<\/a><\/p>\n

Pernil and tostones at Ensemble\"Pernil<\/p>\n

Pernil and tostones at Ensemble, a private supper club in Houston. (Bao Ong \/ Houston Chronicle)<\/p>\n

You’re literally dining in chef Jan-Mitchell Avil\u00e9s’ West University Place home when you reserve this tasting-menu experience. After booking, you’ll receive a text with the address and an entry code. It’s an intimate setup with a single communal table and a two-seat chef’s counter. A pernil-inspired pork tenderloin, infused with a mojo marinade, was sliced to reveal a blush of pink at the center. It was served with\u00a0tostones glossed in garlic butter and topped with sweet-spicy gochujang onions. The meal spanned five courses, but with wine pairings and a front-row view of the kitchen, it felt even more elaborate.\u00a0visitensemble.com<\/a><\/p>\n

Beef chapli kabob at Kandahari\"Beef<\/p>\n

Beef and chicken chapli kabob is photographed at Kandahari in Houston on Tuesday, June 2, 2026. (Raquel Natalicchio\/Houston Chronicle)<\/p>\n

One bite of the beef\u00a0chapli kabob convinced me to review this Afghan restaurant<\/a> along Hillcroft’s restaurant row, mostly filled with South Asian and Persian favorites. The hand-formed patty arrived with craggy browned edges that give way to a juicy center flecked with herbs, chiles and spices. Wrapped in warm naan or eaten alongside fragrant bukhari pulao, I was impressed by this humble kabob and how deeply satisfying it was in its simplicity. By the time I finished it, I knew I had enough of a reason to come back and give the rest of the menu the attention it deserved. 5626 Hillcroft; kandaharihtx.com<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Dumplings<\/p>\n

Dumplings from Nan Xiang Express in Cypress. (Bao Ong \/ Houston Chronicle)<\/p>\n

While researching our new guide to the\u00a0best restaurants in Cypress<\/a>, I checked in on this Shanghainese soup dumpling specialist. While the fried rice and noodle dishes are not its best selling points, the dumplings were just as good as when I first sampled them over a year ago. The delicate wrappers hold their shape just long enough to get from steamer to spoon before collapsing into a rich, steaming broth and a tender pork filling. One bamboo steamer was not enough.\u00a013126 FM 1960 W., Cypress; nanxiangexpress.com<\/a><\/p>\n

Seasonal citrus fruit dessert at Osteria di Mercato\"Seasonal<\/p>\n

Seasonal fruit dessert at Osteria di Mercato. (Bao Ong \/ Houston Chronicle)<\/p>\n

I doubted whether I could finish this dessert after unexpectedly polishing off my bowl of pasta and a delightful roasted duck entree. But the vibrant colors of\u00a0cara cara and blood oranges topped with dainty halved mint leaves convinced me otherwise. I told myself I could use some Vitamin\u00a0C, fiber and a not-too-sweet finish to my meal at this cozy Italian restaurant in Rice Village. Underneath the slices of fruit, however, was a generous dollop of ginger chantilly. The whipped cream had a cloud-like softness with a whisper of heat from the ginger. It was a light, composed and elegant finish to one of my best dinners this month.\u00a03642 University; mercatoandcompany.com<\/a><\/p>\n

MORE FROM BAO ONG: Wondering where to eat in Houston? Text our restaurant critic Bao Ong for recommendations<\/a><\/p>\n

Bagels at PopUp Bagels\"A<\/p>\n

A variety of bagels and smears from PopUp Bagels. (Jen Goldberg)<\/p>\n

I lived in New York City for 14 years, so I rolled my eyes when these bagels – which you’re supposed to eat by the “grip, rip and dip” method – became the latest Internet obsession. Just imagine if a kolache or breakfast taco chain started expanding locations because of an infusion of private equity cash, of which\u00a0PopUp Bagels<\/a> has plenty. Still, I couldn’t resist checking it out. My takeaway: These are good bagels even if they’re not classic crispy-chewy New York style. They arrived warm enough to pull apart, their glossy crust giving way to an interior that was almost impossibly soft. They’re served simply with tubs of whipped cream cheese or butter. Houston’s bagel market isn’t oversaturated with options and despite the viral hype, I think people will keep coming back.\u00a0700 Town & Country, Suite 2640; popupbagels.com<\/a><\/p>\n

Breakfast sandwich at Stuffed Belly\"Breakfast<\/p>\n

Breakfast sandwich and hasbrown at Stuffed Belly. (Bao Ong \/ Houston Chronicle)<\/p>\n

For a second, I mistook this breakfast sandwich for a\u00a0smashburger. The browned sausage patty has the same crusty edges tucked inside a squishy toasted bun. Then I bit into the fried egg and golden hash brown at the bottom of the sandwich. That built-in layer of crisp potatoes gave each bite another crackle and made the side of hash browns I had ordered feel like overkill (not that I regretted the decision). The restaurant slid into my DMs after I posted on Instagram and mentioned breakfast sales have been slow. I hope they can keep the breakfast menu; if not, I’ll be back for a burger.\u00a08133 Long Point, stuffedbelly.co<\/a><\/p>\n

Mushroom-and-ricotta lasagna at Tiny Champions\"Mushroom<\/p>\n

Mushroom and ricotta lasagna at Tiny Champions. (Bao Ong \/ Houston Chronicle)<\/p>\n

I appreciate the comforts of a towering, saucy slab of lasagna – especially if I get a slice that includes the furled, brown edges. Tiny Champions’ mushroom-and-ricotta lasagna is a version I hadn’t encountered before. It’s thin and only about two layers thick. You get a taste of the earthy mushrooms, creamy ricotta and pasta with a crunch in each bite. There’s no overwhelming tomato sauce. Instead, an\u00a0arugula pine nut pesto gave it a pop of flavor you wouldn’t find in a traditional lasagna. 2617 McKinney; tinychampionshouston.com<\/a><\/p>\n

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This article originally published at The best dishes Houston Chronicle restaurant critic Bao Ong ate in June<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"When PopUp Bagels debuted in Houston a few weeks ago,\u00a0people lined up for hours to try the viral…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":357013,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[27014,126895,56,58,57,67,126894],"class_list":["post-357012","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-houston","tag-chicken-and-waffles","tag-crispy-chicken","tag-houston","tag-houston-headlines","tag-houston-news","tag-restaurant","tag-the-breakfast-klub"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/357012","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=357012"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/357012\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/357013"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=357012"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=357012"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=357012"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}