{"id":88844,"date":"2025-12-15T18:18:10","date_gmt":"2025-12-15T18:18:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/88844\/"},"modified":"2025-12-15T18:18:10","modified_gmt":"2025-12-15T18:18:10","slug":"big-tree-oyster-company-is-proving-gulf-oysters-can-be-tasty","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/88844\/","title":{"rendered":"Big Tree Oyster Company Is Proving Gulf Oysters Can Be Tasty"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">Something\u2019s underway in Copano Bay, an estuary west of Rockport. A transformation spurred by a family of conservationists is rewiring brains and palates around Texas. No, Gulf oysters aren\u2019t awful \u2014 some of them can be quite good.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">Texas was the last coastal state in the nation to legalize oyster mariculture, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.caller.com\/story\/news\/local\/2019\/05\/27\/gov-greg-abbott-signs-bill-allow-texas-oyster-farms\/1252491001\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">passing a crucial bill in 2019<\/a>. Just a few years later, the industry\u2019s success can be tasted in the bright, briny shells emerging from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bigtreeoysters.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Big Tree Oyster Company<\/a>. This Rockport farm, led by Dr. Amy Belaire and Seth Gambill, is one of just 17 fully permitted grow-out locations in the state. Their success has put high-quality half-shells on the menu at top restaurants in Rockport, Austin, and San Antonio, including Dai Due, Le Calamar, Skipjack Oyster, and Barley Swine, giving diners a reason to reconsider everything they thought they knew about Gulf oysters.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">Big Tree is run by Belaire, a conservation biologist, and her husband Gambill, a marine hydrographer and builder of <a href=\"https:\/\/blackduckskiffs.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Black Duck Skiffs<\/a>. Both grew up in Rockport and reconnected years later at Belaire\u2019s mother\u2019s memorial at the Boiling Pot, a local seafood institution. That meeting became a hinge moment \u2014 not just for their romance, but for the Texas oyster industry.<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"_1d77pry1\" href=\"https:\/\/platform.austin.eater.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/22\/2025\/12\/JPAGE-Editorial-BigTreeOysters-0334-ZF-10467-54718-1-009.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;crop=0,0,100,100\" data-pswp-height=\"4000\" data-pswp-width=\"6000\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\"><img alt=\"A married couple in blue shirts farming oysters.\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-nimg=\"fill\" class=\"_1u5z0xk0\" style=\"position:absolute;height:100%;width:100%;left:0;top:0;right:0;bottom:0;color:transparent;background-size:cover;background-position:50% 50%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-image:url(&quot;data:image\/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns='http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg' %3E%3Cfilter id='b' color-interpolation-filters='sRGB'%3E%3CfeGaussianBlur stdDeviation='20'\/%3E%3CfeColorMatrix values='1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 100 -1' result='s'\/%3E%3CfeFlood x='0' y='0' width='100%25' height='100%25'\/%3E%3CfeComposite operator='out' in='s'\/%3E%3CfeComposite in2='SourceGraphic'\/%3E%3CfeGaussianBlur stdDeviation='20'\/%3E%3C\/filter%3E%3Cimage width='100%25' height='100%25' x='0' y='0' preserveAspectRatio='none' style='filter: url(%23b);' href='data:image\/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAAEAAAABCAQAAAC1HAwCAAAAC0lEQVR42mN8+R8AAtcB6oaHtZcAAAAASUVORK5CYII='\/%3E%3C\/svg%3E&quot;)\"   src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/JPAGE-Editorial-BigTreeOysters-0334-ZF-10467-54718-1-009.jpg\"\/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Dr. Amy Belaire and Seth Gambill. Big Tree Oyster Company<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">These days, Big Tree Oyster\u2019s owners return to the Boiling Pot every week with their blended family to order their oysters off the menu in what Belaire calls a \u201cfull circle moment.\u201d Their three help out with the business too.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">\u201cEverett helps tumble them; Merritt helps deliver them; Cooper helps harvest them,\u201d she says. \u201cEach of the kids plays a role in getting these oysters here. How cool is that?\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">Belaire earned a PhD in biology and spent years in Austin working in conservation, returning to the coast just as oyster farming opened in Texas. Gambill\u2019s mapped the Texas coastline for more than two decades, building boats and gear designed to withstand the shifting currents of Copano Bay.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">\u201cTexas is a high-energy environment,\u201d he says. \u201cConstant wind, constant chop. A lot of the gear used elsewhere just does not hold up here.\u201d Gambill\u2019s expertise ensures every piece of equipment is engineered for the bay, a practical advantage most growers lack.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">Their timing was crucial. Texas oyster reefs have faced years of crises. The state long relied on wild reefs, but storms and changing environmental conditions have devastated natural habitats. For example, Hurricane Ike in 2008 destroyed roughly <a href=\"https:\/\/www.axios.com\/local\/houston\/2024\/06\/07\/restaurants-recycle-oyster-shells-to-revive-reefs\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">60 percent of Galveston Bay reefs<\/a>, and Hurricane Harvey in 2017 caused catastrophic flooding that led to prolonged low salinity, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.texasstandard.org\/stories\/oyster-farmers-say-harvey-devastated-galveston-shellfish-harvests\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">widespread oyster mortality<\/a>, and shellfish harvest closures. Because oysters cannot move, repeated hits compounded the damage. When <a href=\"https:\/\/oyster.texasseagrant.org\/current-farmers\/com-program-and-permiting-process.html\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">House Bill 1300<\/a> legalized oyster farming in 2019, with permits following in 2020, the path for sustainable, long-term production had been laid out.<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"_1d77pry1\" href=\"https:\/\/platform.austin.eater.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/22\/2025\/12\/JPAGE-Editorial-BigTreeOysters-0180-ZF-10467-54718-1-006.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;crop=0,0,100,100\" data-pswp-height=\"6000\" data-pswp-width=\"4000\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\"><img alt=\"Dozens of farmed oysters being poured in a tray.\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-nimg=\"fill\" class=\"_1u5z0xk0\" style=\"position:absolute;height:100%;width:100%;left:0;top:0;right:0;bottom:0;color:transparent;background-size:cover;background-position:50% 50%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-image:url(&quot;data:image\/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns='http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg' %3E%3Cfilter id='b' color-interpolation-filters='sRGB'%3E%3CfeGaussianBlur stdDeviation='20'\/%3E%3CfeColorMatrix values='1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 100 -1' result='s'\/%3E%3CfeFlood x='0' y='0' width='100%25' height='100%25'\/%3E%3CfeComposite operator='out' in='s'\/%3E%3CfeComposite in2='SourceGraphic'\/%3E%3CfeGaussianBlur stdDeviation='20'\/%3E%3C\/filter%3E%3Cimage width='100%25' height='100%25' x='0' y='0' preserveAspectRatio='none' style='filter: url(%23b);' href='data:image\/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAAEAAAABCAQAAAC1HAwCAAAAC0lEQVR42mN8+R8AAtcB6oaHtZcAAAAASUVORK5CYII='\/%3E%3C\/svg%3E&quot;)\"   src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/JPAGE-Editorial-BigTreeOysters-0180-ZF-10467-54718-1-006.jpg\"\/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Dozens of farmed oysters. Big Tree Oyster Company.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">For Belaire, whose parents ran a restoration company rebuilding wetlands and reefs, oyster farming is a continuation of her family\u2019s legacy. Farmed oysters are naturally sustainable. They don\u2019t need feed or added nutrients and filter water as they grow \u2014 up to 50 gallons a day. Their floating cages function as microhabitats for marine life. After harvest, Big Tree sends shells to reef restoration groups so the calcium can return to the bay.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">\u201cWe want to put more back than we take out,\u201d Belaire says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">To ensure consistent, high-quality oysters, Belaire and Gambill employ a rigorous hands-on approach: tumbling cages every few weeks to thicken shells and deepen cups, and sun-drying weekly to control barnacles. This controlled method produces oysters uniform in size, shape, and flavor.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">The flavor reflects merroir, the marine equivalent of terroir. Copano Bay is fed by creeks and rivers that keep salinity bright, and constant winds keep the water well mixed. The result is a plump, briny oyster with a hint of sweetness. Dr. Lindsay Glass Campbell of <a href=\"https:\/\/tpwd.texas.gov\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Texas Parks and Wildlife<\/a> notes that farmed oysters challenge long-standing stigma in Texas.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">Dr. Campbell tells Eater that oyster mariculture wasn\u2019t common in Gulf states until recently, thanks to robust wild oyster populations. As mariculture became more common on the East and West coasts, preferences began to shift in that direction. \u201cMany people have only had a wild or dredged oyster from the Gulf,\u201d she says. These oysters don\u2019t have the look or taste of what people have become used to thanks to mariculture on the coasts, lending to the idea that Gulf oysters are better suited fried and on a sandwich.<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"_1d77pry1\" href=\"https:\/\/platform.austin.eater.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/22\/2025\/12\/Updated_EmmaSchmidt_BigTreeOysterFarm_CopanoBayMap_Color.jpg?quality=90&amp;strip=all&amp;crop=0,3.3333333333333,100,93.333333333333\" data-pswp-height=\"1399.9999999999998\" data-pswp-width=\"2100\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\"><img alt=\"An illustrated map of where Big Tree Oyster Company Sits\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-nimg=\"fill\" class=\"_1u5z0xk0\" style=\"position:absolute;height:100%;width:100%;left:0;top:0;right:0;bottom:0;color:transparent;background-size:cover;background-position:50% 50%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-image:url(&quot;data:image\/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns='http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg' %3E%3Cfilter id='b' color-interpolation-filters='sRGB'%3E%3CfeGaussianBlur stdDeviation='20'\/%3E%3CfeColorMatrix values='1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 100 -1' result='s'\/%3E%3CfeFlood x='0' y='0' width='100%25' height='100%25'\/%3E%3CfeComposite operator='out' in='s'\/%3E%3CfeComposite in2='SourceGraphic'\/%3E%3CfeGaussianBlur stdDeviation='20'\/%3E%3C\/filter%3E%3Cimage width='100%25' height='100%25' x='0' y='0' preserveAspectRatio='none' style='filter: url(%23b);' href='data:image\/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAAEAAAABCAQAAAC1HAwCAAAAC0lEQVR42mN8+R8AAtcB6oaHtZcAAAAASUVORK5CYII='\/%3E%3C\/svg%3E&quot;)\"   src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Updated_EmmaSchmidt_BigTreeOysterFarm_CopanoBayMap_Color.jpg\"\/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Map of where Big Tree Oyster Company is. Emma C. Schmidt \/ Big Tree Oyster Company<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">These perceptions haven\u2019t caught up to a new reality. \u201cIf you placed a Texas mariculture oyster in a sampler with those from the East Coast, I doubt anyone would be able to say it was from Texas,\u201d Dr. Campbell says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">Even outside Texas, the quality is turning heads. Author Rowan Jacobsen, who won a James Beard Award for his book <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rowanjacobsen.com\/books\/a-geography-of-oysters\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">A Geography of Oysters<\/a>, sampled Big Tree oysters and others from the state and emailed the couple: \u201cTexas farmed oysters can go toe-to-toe with any oysters in the country. Plump, meaty, and beautifully balanced in sweetness and brine, they are an essential component of any well-curated raw bar.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">Chefs see the difference immediately. At Le Calamar, executive chef Casey Wall uses Big Tree to reintroduce diners to Gulf oysters. \u201cThe balanced salinity with a touch of sweetness puts them over the top,\u201d Wall says. \u201cYou can taste the brine and the oyster. They offer a true expression of Texas.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">Hesitations fade quickly. \u201cThere\u2019s definitely a stigma around Gulf oysters. We talk people through it, and many order a second plate after tasting them.\u201d He also praises the consistency: \u201cBecause Big Tree controls the growing process, what we get each week is unrivaled.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">For Gambill and Belaire, the work is both personal and strategic. They grew up on these waters and watched their town\u2019s <a href=\"https:\/\/fultonoysterfest.org\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">OysterFest<\/a> shift from local oysters to out-of-state supply as reefs declined. Now, the festival serves the couple\u2019s Big Tree oysters, cementing a local legacy and ensuring the Gulf oyster industry has a long-term future.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1\">\u201cThis is all so new. Texas is just getting started,\u201d Belaire says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1 masaseg\">Korean American wine bar Underdog gets a second life as <a href=\"https:\/\/austin.eater.com\/2025\/5\/30\/24439612\/le-calamar-french-texas-bistro-underdog-chef-casey-wall-austin-restaurant-openings\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Le Calamar, a French bistro with Texas flair<\/a>. Co-owners Claudia Lee and Richard Hargreave partnered with North Carolina native and chef Casey Wall to revamp the entire menu, sourcing ingredients primarily from Texas and the Gulf Coast to craft a menu that could only exist in the Lone Star State. There are oysters Charentaise paired with spicy Texas hot links, grilled trout slathered in a brown butter-based salsa macha, an ever-changing menu of steaks cooked over charcoal, and compelling chicken wings \u00e0 la Koffman (deboned chicken wings stuffed with mousseline) that appears deceptively simple. The beverage menu is just as impressive, with Hargreave sourcing most of the wines from France and a spirits list that focuses on Texas and Mexico.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1 masaseg\">Open for: Dinner, Brunch<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1 masaseg\">Price range: $$$<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1 masaseg\">This Cherrywood Texan restaurant is so regionally minded that even beer and wine are exclusively from the state. Equally satisfying for a lingering brunch or blowout feast at dinner, the Texas-forever menu under chef Jesse Griffith has heavier dishes like dry-aged wagyu rib-eyes, quails stuffed with boudin noir, grilled chicken hearts, and coffee-cured antelope leg filets. Diners can go lighter, too, with dishes like mixed greens salads and grilled cabbage. The decor vibe is industrial farmhouse \u2014 wood, brick, black accents, walls of preserves \u2014 and the outdoor patio has a vine canopy with twinkle lights.<\/p>\n<p class=\"duet--article--dangerously-set-cms-markup duet--article--standard-paragraph n2hx75i _1knl15h1 _1knl15h0 cej01i1 masaseg\">Best for: Showing out-of-town visitors why Texas is great.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Something\u2019s underway in Copano Bay, an estuary west of Rockport. A transformation spurred by a family of conservationists&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":88845,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[132,134,133,8463,28452],"class_list":["post-88844","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-austin","tag-austin","tag-austin-headlines","tag-austin-news","tag-austin-restaurant-news","tag-dining-out-in-austin"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/88844","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=88844"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/88844\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/88845"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=88844"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=88844"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us-tx\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=88844"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}