QUEBEC CITY, Quebec – Je me souviens – I remember – is the official motto of Quebec, emblazoned on license plates, written in flowers.
For the residents, it means remember the history, the culture, the traditions.
For me? I’ll remember the croissants, the seafood and the maple taffy – plus the history, the culture and traditions.
I’ve had Quebec City, the capital of Quebec, on my bucket list for years, but was always put off by the trek to get there – a 12-hour drive from Cleveland, or a pricey one-stop flight through Toronto or New York City. ‘
I finally made the trip this summer, an add-on to a visit to upstate New York. Now I regret that it took me so long.
Related: Exploring New York’s Thousand Islands area, from Boldt Castle to boating for groceries
The place is as European as any city I’ve been to outside of Europe, but it’s also uniquely Canadian, with poutine and maple syrup candy on every corner. Locals easily switch between French and English, depending on their audience, without a hint of impatience.
It’s also one of the most beautiful cities I’ve been to, with narrow alleyways to explore, lined with outdoor cafes and overflowing pots of flowers.
The city this year is celebrating the 40th anniversary of its being named a UNESCO World Heritage site, the first city in North America to receive the designation.
The place was so perfect that my husband said the city reminded him of a Disneyfied version of a European town.
The 4,000 residents who call the historic district home, however, might beg to differ.
French history in Canada
For those of you who need a refresher course on French-Canadian history, this area of Canada was originally part of New France, a vast territory in North America colonized by France starting in the 1500s. Eventually, it was ceded to the British, but not before French culture became entrenched.
The historic center of Quebec City is divided into Old Upper Town and Old Lower Town, both easily explored in a day. A funicular travels between the two ($6 cash only), or you can scale one of numerous staircases that connect the neighborhoods.
“There are 34 staircases in town,” said Dominique Lavigueur, a guide with Tours Voir Quebec. The shortest has 7 steps, the longest has 398.
I figure I scaled at least 10 of them, which I used to justify yet another chocolate croissant from the bakery Paillard near my hotel.
One note: While this is a very pedestrian-friendly city, people with mobility issues may have trouble negotiating the cobblestone streets and significant elevation changes.
Strolling Dufferin Terrace in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Descending the stairs from historic Quebec City’s Upper Town to Lower Town.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Morning temptations at Paillard in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Perusing art on Rue du Tresor in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
An entertainer attracts a crowd at the monument to Samuel de Champlain, who founded Quebec City in 1608.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Exploring the city
Upon arrival, we headed to the Chateau Frontenac, the city’s signature structure, visible from nearly any side of town.
Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1893, the 18-story structure is not a castle but a hotel, an elegant Fairmont property, with 610 rooms starting at $500 a night and up.
An overnight here didn’t fit my budget, but I did want to see the place. So my husband and I ducked into Bar 1608, named for the year of the city’s founding, and enjoyed $25 cocktails and a cheese plate while taking in views of the city.
Outside of the hotel is a Dufferin Terrace, an extraordinary public space overlooking the St. Lawrence River, a wide boardwalk with entertainment, food vendors, places to sit and stroll, plus expansive views of the water.
In the winter, the city operates toboggan chutes here. For the first time since 1884, the city this year had to use artificial refrigeration to keep the chutes frozen, according to Lavigueur. “It’s a sad commentary,” she said.
The terrace was built atop the remains of Château Saint-Louis – a real castle, this one – home to French and British governors starting in 1620 and destroyed by fire in 1834.
The archeological remains of the castle and adjacent forts are part of the Saint-Louis Forts and Chateaux National Historic Site, part of Parks Canada, free to tour this summer as the Canadian government pushes to increase domestic tourism. (Admission is normally $12.50 Canadian.)
Artifacts on display here include tiles and hat pins, spoons, candlesticks and wine bottle seals.
But the weather during our stay was too nice to stay underground for long.
Much of our time here was spent meandering around town, wandering through the maze of narrow alleyways, lined with shops, stone houses and churches.
To give some guidance to our wandering, we joined the tour led by Lavigueur, who introduced us to Samuel de Champlain, the French explorer who settled the city in 1608. A towering monument to Champlain on Dufferin Terrace pays tribute to the man.
The city was on the defensive shortly after its founding, which is why much of the historic district is surrounded by a fortified wall, erected by the French and added onto by the British.
You can walk atop much of the wall, 3 miles long, nearly surrounding Upper Town, built between 1608 and 1871 to protect the city from ongoing conflict.
There is no conflict now – only quaintness and charm.
Along our meanderings, we inspected numerous cannons along the Rue des Remparts, popped in for maple taffy along Rue de Buade, and took a quick tour of the Notre-Dame-de-Quebec Basilica-Cathedral, the city’s Roman Catholic church since 1647 (the building has been rebuilt several times since, most recently in the 1920s).
Le Quartier du Petit-Champlain, in Old Lower Town, is perhaps the city’s most picturesque area, pedestrian only, lined with artsy shops, overflowing with flowers and tourists.
It wasn’t always this charming. Lavigueur told us the riverfront neighborhood, in disrepair and prone to flooding, was almost turned into a parking lot in the 1970s. Instead, it was rebuilt and restored.
Descending the Breakneck steps into Old Lower Town in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Quebec City’s Notre-Dame-de-Quebec Basilica-Cathedral.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Quebec City’s funicular makes its way between Upper Town and Lower Town.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
View of Lower Town and the St. Lawrence River from the funicular in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Strolling through Old Lower Town in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
View from the water
Not content to merely walk along the water, we bought round-trip tickets ($8.30 Canadian) to take the Quebec City-Levis Ferry across the river, where we dodged large cargo ships headed east toward the ocean. Once on the other side, we reboarded and came right back, with terrific views of the city skyline from the boat.
On the morning of our departure, we scaled the fortification wall at Saint-Jean Gate, one of four stone portals providing entryway into the old city, and walked 15 minutes north, toward the Citadel.
Constructed primarily between 1820 and 1850, the star-shaped fortress was built to protect the city from an American attack that never came. Still, the structure remains in use as an active military base.
The fortress is open daily for tours ($22 Canadian), with stops including a shooting gallery and former prison. The highlight, however, is the 10 a.m. changing of the guard ceremony (which, depending on personnel, is sometimes replaced by a music program). Either program includes a starring appearance from Batisse, the goat mascot of the Canadian Army’s Royal 22nd Regiment.
There are several small museums here, with exhibits on Canadian military history and the 22nd Regiment, plus the residence of the governor general, who represents the king of England in Canada, open to tour when unoccupied.
The Citadel complex sits atop Cap Diamant, a rocky point overlooking the city and the river. Even if you’re not interested in touring the fortress, it’s worth the climb up here for the views.
And spelled out in flowers on the grounds here: Je me souviens.
But honestly, how could I forget?
Walking the wall that encloses the historic district of Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
View of the city skyline from the Citadel complex in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Batisse, the goat mascot of Canada’s Royal 22nd Regiment, waits to be led out for the changing of the guard ceremony.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
At the Citadel, an activity. military base in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Je me souviens, written in flowers on the grounds of the Citadel in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Quebec City: If you go
Getting there: There’s no fast way to get to Quebec City. We drove 12 hours (with an extended stop in the Thousand Islands area), crossing into Canada at Ogdensburg, N.Y., then following the St. Lawrence River east. We passed the time listening to Louise Penny’s “Bury Your Dead,” a mystery that takes place in Quebec City and covers some interesting history. Flights are pricey – starting at about $600 for one-stop routes on United Airlines or Air Canada.
Where to stay: We stayed at the well-located Hotel du Vieux-Quebec on lively Rue St. Jean. We paid about $250 U.S. per night.
Where to eat: There is no excuse for not eating well in this city, whether your tastes run Canadian comfort or fine French. Among the places we dined: L’Echaude, with salmon and steak tartare on the menu; Le Lapin Saute, for rabbit, fondue and farm-fresh salads; Le Chic Shack for terrific poutine and boozy milkshakes; and Paillard for breads and pastries.
Currency: We traveled with $30 in Canadian currency, although most vendors will accept U.S. money. And why wouldn’t they? As of this writing, $1 American is worth about $1.38 Canadian.
Language: We encountered no one in Quebec City who didn’t speak English. I was surprised, however, to find many signs that were exclusively in French, including road signs and signs at tourist attractions. So be prepared to occasionally pull up Google translate on your phone.
Nearby: We didn’t have time on this trip to venture outside the old city, but there are numerous attractions both in adjacent neighborhoods and nearby communities. Among the options: Battlefields Park, also known as the Plains of Abraham, just outside the old city, where British troops defeated the French in 1759, now a popular spot for outdoor recreation; the elegant Parliament Building, open for tours year-round; Montmorency Falls and the Ile d’Orleans, just east of the city in the St. Lawrence River, populated by artists, farmers and farm-to-table eateries.
More information: quebec-cite.com/en/quebec-city
Chateau Frontenac towers over historic Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Place-Royale and the Notre-Dame des Victoires church in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Cannons along Rue du Ramparts in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
Historic stone homes in Quebec City.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
One of 34 staircases in Quebec City’s historic district.Susan Glaser, Cleveland.com
If you purchase a product or register for an account through a link on our site, we may receive compensation. By using this site, you consent to our User Agreement and agree that your clicks, interactions, and personal information may be collected, recorded, and/or stored by us and social media and other third-party partners in accordance with our Privacy Policy.