In an image-obsessed industry, maintaining a robust head of hair isn’t just about vanity — it also signals success and staying power. Check out any over-50 star still working — nearly all have full, Samson-like manes to match their career stamina. And an unknowable number have gone to great lengths, and great expense, to preserve it.
A possible miracle drug — think GLP-1 for hair — might be cropping up. Earlier this year, scientists at UCLA discovered a new molecule, PP405, that reportedly awakens dormant follicles after applying it to the scalp at bedtime for a week. Approval for mainstream use, however, might take a few years.
In the meantime, early detection of shedding is crucial. “If you catch hair loss in earlier stages, patients do much better and require less intervention,” says Robert Finney, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and hair-loss expert. “If you wait, the same result isn’t always possible and you may have to do and spend more.” He recommends seeing a dermatologist for proper diagnosis. “Although there are many causes of hair loss, the most common type we encounter is genetic: androgenetic alopecia (AGA), and it’s progressive. If not addressed, eventually those hairs will be gone forever.”
Patience also is key. “Treating hair loss should be viewed as a marathon, not a sprint,” adds Finney. “Men who are suffering from AGA require prescription medications as early as possible. For women, three signs that it’s actually genetic are: ponytail thickness has slowly declined over the years, the part has subtly widened, or the hairs at the front become wispier and break easier.”
When treating mild hair loss in men and women, Finney is a proponent of the FDA-approved classics: finasteride (via prescription and may reportedly affect libido) and minoxidil, available OTC for less than $15: “Whether orally or topically, they can often be all you need.”
For later stages, incorporating regenerative in-office treatments can make a noticeable difference. Says Alexander GolBerg, a double board-certified physician specializing in functional and aesthetic medicine: “I’m seeing incredible results with a combination of Platelet-rich fibrin (PRF), low-level laser therapy (LLLT) and exosomes, paired with targeted IV therapy to nourish the body from within.”
Exoceuticals is one of the newer, patented exosome-based skincare lines that has introduced their haircare collection, , which has “been shown to stimulate dermal papillae cells, follicle stem cells as well as the follicle itself,” says Dr. Robin Smith, co-founder and regenerative medicine pioneer. “In our clinical evaluations in men and women across all ages, we are seeing extraordinary growth and reduction in shedding, independent of the cause.”
Finney also recommends ultrasound and laser treatments, such as TED/Transepidermal Delivery and Keralase, respectively ($600 to $1,500), with the bonus that they’re injection-free. He also offers ScalpStim Pro, his blend of dutasteride and growth factors used with microneedling and ultrasound to deliver ingredients directly to the follicles.
This follicular-challenged male, a patient of Dr. Robert Finney, was already on topical or oral finasteride and minoxidil and had stalled — then he turned to Finney’s ScalpStim Pro treatments.
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Several at-home options also are worth trying. Finney is a fan of Plated and Kerafactor serums used in combination with the Current Body LED Hair Growth Helmet and Laduora low-level laser therapy devices. But as the $8 billion hair restoration industry continues to explode, buyers should beware. “Many OTC products rely on buzzwords like ‘biotin,’ ‘caffeine’ or ‘obscure herbs.’ While not harmful, they’re rarely effective on their own,” GolBerg says. “If it sounds too good to be true, like ‘overnight regrowth’ or ‘miracle oils,’ it probably is.”
Even in cases of advanced thinning or visible balding, there’s still a path forward. “While transplants remain an option, many of my patients now prefer a less invasive approach. We can improve density without surgery. I’ve seen some truly transformational results over time,” adds GolBerg.
As for transplants, which can cost upward of $40,000, Finney poses a warning: “It should always look natural, and if it doesn’t, you picked a bad surgeon or flew to Turkey [where fees are much lower]. A Turkish hairline is visible a mile away because they create perfectly straight hairlines, and it’s an unnatural look. A good surgeon will stagger it and use follicular units with a varying number of follicles to make the procedure imperceptible.”
This story appeared in the July 30 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.