CLEARWATER BEACH, Florida — Rickety drawbridges and modest mom-and-pop motels greeted visitors to Clearwater Beach when I made my first trek to this Gulf Coast gem nearly four decades ago. That year, a box seat ticket to see the Philadelphia Phillies at the old Jack Russell Memorial Stadium cost just $7.
A visit today, 38 years after that maiden trip, reveals just how much the landscape has shifted. Glittering glass towers and monolithic resorts punctuate the skyline and the “cheap seats” on the outfield’s grassy berm at BayCare Ballpark start at $30 — with prime spots behind home plate fetching upward of $150.
BayCare Ballpark, which sets 8,500 fans, has been the spring training home of the Phillies since 2004. (LARRY HOLEVA/STAFF PHOTO)
Opal Sands, a luxury resort on the south side of Clearwater Beach, towers over the beach with Gulf-front rooms, the award-winning Seaguini restaurant and the tiki-themed Sandbar. (LARRY HOLEVA/STAFF PHOTO)
Fans on beach towels and blankets fill the rightfield berm for a spring training game at at BayCare Ballpark. (LARRY HOLEVA/STAFF PHOTO)
The Pirate Ship, a popular cruise for families, sails daily from Clearwater Marina. (LARRY HOLEVA/STAFF PHOTO)
A view of sunset from Shephard’s Beach Resort on Clearwater Beach. Sunsets are a daily celebration along the Gulf of Mexico. (LARRY HOLEVA/STAFF PHOTO)
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BayCare Ballpark, which sets 8,500 fans, has been the spring training home of the Phillies since 2004. (LARRY HOLEVA/STAFF PHOTO)
Yet, the soul of the experience remains unchanged. In a testament to the city’s resilience, the scars of Hurricanes Helene and Milton have mostly faded as Clearwater hosts Phillies spring training for the 80th consecutive year. For Northeasterners looking to swap snow for sugar sand, this remains the ultimate bucket-list destination.
The jewel of the Grapefruit League
The Phillies christened BayCare Ballpark in 2004, and it remains the gold standard for spring training facilities. Located on Old Coachman Road, the park features a 360-degree main concourse where every seat is angled toward the action. It’s a place where history feels close; legends like Chase Utley, Jimmy Rollins and Ryan Howard starred here long before their legendary 2008 World Series run. Today, you’re just as likely to see Bryce Harper, Kyle Schwarber or Trea Turner launching home runs during batting practice.
The ballpark experience is a Clearwater-meets-Philly collision. You can grab a “Big Piece” chicken sandwich — a hulking, buffalo-sauced nod to Ryan Howard — or dive into a Tackle Box of garlic crab fries. To wash it down, look for the Orange Crushes at the Coco’s Crush kiosk, which migrates from the beach to the ballpark every spring.
For the true “insider” experience, head to Frenchy’s Tiki Pavilion in the left-field corner. This tropical-themed staple opens for pregame warmups and stays hopping long after the final out, often featuring live acoustic music to keep the spring vibes rolling.
The Gulf of Mexico is seen along Clearwater Beach on Friday. A group of local politicians and business owners held a news conference in support of Don’t Drill Florida. (TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE)
Doris, a rough-toothed dolphin, gets a fish from trainer Kelsey Fisher at Clearwater Marine Aquarium. (TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE)
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The Gulf of Mexico is seen along Clearwater Beach on Friday. A group of local politicians and business owners held a news conference in support of Don’t Drill Florida. (TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE)
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Beyond the diamond
While baseball may be the bait, the beach is what gets you hooked. Clearwater is world-famous for its brilliant white powdery sand that stays cool to the touch even under the scorching Florida sun. During spring training, the Gulf waters hover between 65 and 70 degrees, offering a refreshing (if brisk) treat for sunbathers.
The centerpiece of the modern beachfront is the Clearwater Beachwalk. Completed in 2008, this winding, beautifully landscaped pedestrian promenade stretches nearly a mile from the Clearwater Municipal Marina down toward Sand Key. It’s the perfect corridor for a scenic stroll past world-class hotels like the Wyndham Grand and Opal Sands.
If you’re traveling with family, the Clearwater Marine Aquarium — famed for its rescue work and the Dolphin Tale films— is a must. For a quieter pace, head to the salt marshes of Sand Key Park for birdwatching and a glimpse of Florida’s native avian species.
A toast to the sunset
No place celebrates the end of a day quite like Clearwater Beach. Two hours before the sun dips below the horizon, Pier 60 comes alive with artisans, musicians, and street performers.
The local “sunset ritual” has even extended to the area’s rooftop bars. At Jimmy’s Crows Nest (atop the Pier 60 Hotel), the crowd toasts the setting sun with complimentary “Tequila Sunset” shots. Nearby, the recently opened Hiatus hotel offers a celebratory flute of champagne, while Jimmy’s Edge waits until 9 p.m. to serve free Fireball — a fiery nod to the pit tables overlooking the Gulf.
Whether you’re here for the crack of the bat or the calm of the tide, Clearwater remains the perfect place to welcome back spring. Pack your sunblock, your Phillies cap, and your sense of adventure. Clearwater is calling.
Larry Holeva, executive editor of MediaNews Group’s northeast PA publications, first visited Clearwater as a first-year baseball writer back in 1989. He’s been hooked on the experience ever since.
Inside Tip: Catch the stars for free
The best time to go: On days when the big-league Phillies are scheduled for an away game, many star players remain behind in Clearwater to get their work in.
Where to watch: Head to the Carpenter Complex, the four-field training facility located directly adjacent to BayCare Ballpark on Old Coachman Road.
Admission: Entry to watch these sessions is free, making it one of the best ways to take in baseball without a ticket.
Up close and personal: Because the fields are more intimate than the main stadium, you can often snap photos of the players from just a few feet away.
Autographs: While never guaranteed, star players frequently stop to sign for fans after finishing their work. Pro Tip: Always ask politely and be ready with a pen and a ball!