Once better recognised as lip filler, collagen \u2013 the most abundant protein in the human body and a fiendishly complex molecule that comes in 28 different varieties \u2013 has now entered common parlance as a broader health and beauty supplement. And the coffee morning crew wants to know: does it live up to the hype?\u00a0<\/p>\n
So I set out on everyone\u2019s behalf to get the answer: what is collagen, and should we really be stirring it into our cappuccinos? Regardless of your hormone<\/a> status, you may want to sit down for this one.<\/p>\n Caffeine-fuelled collagen<\/p>\n As I learn from Prof Stuart Phillips<\/a>, a skeletal muscle protein expert at McMaster University in Canada, dissolving collagen powder into your coffee is nothing new.<\/p>\n It\u2019s a trend that \u201cgained a lot of traction\u201d in the 2010s, partly thanks to self-proclaimed biohacker and Bulletproof Coffee creator, David Asprey.\u00a0<\/p>\n Remember<\/a> when we were being told to defile our morning brews with butter? That was Asprey\u2019s genius. The Bulletproof recipe blended coffee with ghee (butter with its water and milk solids removed) and a type of oil that Asprey said stimulated the brain<\/a>.<\/p>\n But Asprey also recommended adding collagen to this oily concoction, to \u201c[counteract] the degenerative effects of ageing.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cAnd it really took off from there,\u201d Phillips says, noting that he prefers his own coffee straight up.<\/p>\n The endorsements of Asprey, who has 1.3 million followers on Instagram<\/a>, and other influencers offering \u2018science-backed\u2019 advice, helped the collagen industry get off the ground.<\/p>\n Meanwhile, a steady stream of studies mentioning collagen supplements was already percolating from scientific journals.<\/p>\n One major journal platform, for example, brings up 115 studies for 2010, which rises to 642 by 2024. Supplement brands lent legitimacy to their claims by citing from this growing body of work.\u00a0<\/p>\n Phillips now spends a lot of time on social media critiquing the science, and the claims. This is something the rest of us find difficult, because we don\u2019t know much about how scientific studies work, or about collagen.<\/p>\n It\u2019s easy, though, to get advice from armchair experts on Instagram and Facebook. One query I find on a group with over a million members, for example, has more than 250 responses recommending 16 different brands of collagen for skin, joints, energy and mood, and, in one case, \u201cperkier\u201d boobs.<\/p>\n Hey, I\u2019m not here to judge. Given the perfect storm of childcare, plummeting hormones and ailing parents that my own peer group is facing right now, it\u2019s hardly surprising we haven\u2019t conducted a thorough review of the scientific literature. We can barely sit down to pee.<\/p>\n Support structures in our faces<\/p>\n Hoping to get better acquainted with collagen, I call on biophysicist and collagen expert Prof Nancy Forde<\/a> at Simon Fraser University in Canada.<\/p>\n Forde is only too happy to indulge my interest, starting with her favourite collagen fact. As she loves to tell people, collagen \u2013 the main structural building block in our tissues \u2013 is not stable at body temperature.<\/p>\n It \u201cfalls apart\u201d, she says, before it even gets that warm. \u201cSo then what holds it together in the body?\u201d I ask, incredulously.\u00a0<\/p>\n Forde explains how, in animals, long threads of collagen proteins are twisted together in threes and woven into the fabric of our tissues.<\/p>\n \u201cMost of them are fibrils, these rope-like structures that collagens make. These are the basis for tendons and stress-bearing components of cartilage and so on,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n \u201cThe key is that once they\u2019re stuck to their neighbours and assembled into these [tissues], they get much more stabilised… That\u2019s why we\u2019re not just puddles on the ground.\u201d<\/p>\n Collagens in our bodies are so stable, in fact, they form the scaffold for everything sitting outside of our cells, often accounting for the majority of the tissue.<\/p>\n Collagens make up over 90 per cent of human tendons (by dry weight) and roughly three quarters of our skin and bones. But, when processing meat products, we often regard tissues like skin and bone as the \u2018waste\u2019 parts of the animals we eat and use them instead for extracting collagen.<\/p>\n Interestingly, collagens in tissues have different turnover rates, so while you might have the same collagen in your cartilage for much of your life, your skin will replenish its collagen supplies several times over.<\/p>\n Gums have even faster turnover times; the rapid losses were clear to see in 17th century sailors suffering from scurvy. As Forde explains, scurvy is linked to low vitamin C levels, but it\u2019s a collagen disease.<\/p>\n \u201cIf you don\u2019t get enough vitamin C, you can\u2019t make collagen properly,\u201d she says. \u201cAnd one of the first symptoms is your gums getting kind of gooey and losing their rigidity.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n Read more:<\/p>\n Problems digesting collagen<\/p>\n From what Forde tells me, then, there\u2019s no question about whether we need collagen. Just as the collagen brands claim, it\u2019s essential to whole body health.<\/p>\n And, just as they claim, we lose it as we age \u2013 although how rapidly, and why, are slightly mysterious. (The rate of decline varies and has to do with factors like sun exposure and hormone levels.) But these are just facts about the collagen in our bodies.<\/p>\n When used by collagen brands, such facts constitute what Phillips calls \u201csoft claims\u201d. They insinuate that bovine or marine collagen in a jar or sachet is directly transported into your tissues to \u201creplace what you\u2019ve lost\u201d (also a phrase often used by brands). This is not the case.<\/p>\n Collagen is a giant of a molecule \u2013 over 1,600 times bulkier than vitamin C or a simple sugar \u2013 so you can\u2019t eat it and get it past your stomach to your skin, or joints, in one piece.<\/p>\n Even collagen brands usually acknowledge their collagens are hydrolysed (broken up) into short chunks called \u2018peptides\u2019, then digested further in our guts<\/a> to release amino acids \u2013 the pearls on the string of the collagen thread. (Vegan \u2018collagens\u2019 are actually plant extracts with a matching amino acid profile.)\u00a0<\/p>\n But where do these collagen fragments go? Well, animal studies<\/a> using radioactive collagen (to track it through the body) show components of collagen supplements end up in tissues, mainly cartilage, though it\u2019s not clear what they do there.<\/p>\n And in 2005<\/a>, Japanese scientists found that when humans eat hydrolysed collagen from pig skin and chicken feet, pairs and triplets of the amino acids in collagen are transferred into our blood.<\/p>\n Some researchers argue that certain amino acid pairs abundant in collagens drive new collagen production in our tissues, but their theories aren\u2019t proven.<\/p>\n As Phillips explains, most of the amino acids strung onto collagen threads in our bodies don\u2019t even come from food. Our cells can make them on their own.<\/p>\n And we don\u2019t need to eat collagen specifically to get the other \u2018essential\u2019 amino acids, because other proteins contain them too.\u00a0<\/p>\n Collagen, in fact, sucks as an all-round protein source, because it lacks one essential amino acid: tryptophan.<\/p>\n \u201cIf we were stuck on a desert island and you had collagen and I had milk protein, you\u2019d die,\u201d Phillips says.<\/p>\n In his own research, he uses collagen as a low-quality control protein to measure the benefits of staples like whey protein (from milk) for building muscle, alongside weightlifting.<\/p>\n He\u2019s also shown, in a small study in older women<\/a>, that collagen supplements are no better than whey for promoting collagen production in muscles.<\/p>\n Problems with collagen studies<\/p>\n So, if you want to boost your collagen, is there any point supplementing with collagen over another protein?<\/p>\n Plenty of studies support the benefits of collagen for skin, nails, joints, strength and recovery, and more. \u201c[Collagen] reduces the wrinkling and roughness of the skin,\u201d states one. \u201c[Collagen] is most beneficial in improving joint functionality and reducing joint pain<\/a>,\u201d asserts another.<\/p>\n But, when it comes to comparing collagen to other proteins, most studies actually use carbohydrates, like maltodextrin, as controls \u2013 rather than proteins.\u00a0<\/p>\n If we want to know whether it\u2019s collagen we need to plop into our coffee or any old protein powder, this doesn\u2019t make any sense \u2013 does it?<\/p>\n I put the question to dermatologist Dr Christina Weng<\/a>, from the Massachusetts General Hospital in the US. After all, it doesn\u2019t set much of a benchmark to use something containing no amino acids whatsoever.<\/p>\n \u201cGreat point,\u201d Weng says. \u201cAnd there\u2019s a reason for that, which is that these trials aren\u2019t meant to develop an approved drug and so the standard\u2026 is lower than what you would expect for a pharmaceutical company developing a medication for arthritis, for example.<\/p>\n “So they can pick whatever control they want. And they\u2019re going to keep the barrier as low as possible.\u201d<\/p>\n By setting such a low bar, these studies tell us nothing about whether the amino acid profile specific to collagens (high proline, high glycine) could be more beneficial than other proteins.<\/p>\n And this isn\u2019t the only problem with the collagen literature. To pick another one: guess who funds most of the studies?<\/p>\n In a recent review of 12 studies<\/a> on collagen\u2019s effects on \u201cdelaying the ageing process\u201d, nine of them were funded or conducted by collagen, or health and beauty, companies. (Another was authored by consultants to skincare companies.)\u00a0Phillips and Weng are sceptical too.<\/p>\n \u201cSomeone the other day said \u2018Here are three systematic reviews in the beauty area\u2019,\u201d says Phillips. \u201cI said, \u2018Go back and find the source of the funding,\u2019 like you did. And it\u2019s hard work, right?\u201d<\/p>\n Agreed. Most consumers wouldn\u2019t dig any deeper, or couldn\u2019t \u2013 the constant barrage of collagen ads in my feeds constantly refer to brand\u2019s own trials, which are often unpublished.<\/p>\n As for Weng, she describes her perspective on the collagen research as \u201coverall sceptical\u201d. A larger, more critical review that she recommends highlights \u201cseveral biases\u201d in how the studies were carried out.<\/p>\n Many of these studies introduce problems I haven\u2019t even considered yet \u2013 so, for my own sanity, I stop short of going through all 26 of them.\u00a0<\/p>\n Read more:<\/p>\n Cell centric health claims<\/p>\n Still, determined to get to the crux of how some researchers contend collagen might work, I arrange a call with Kyoto University\u2019s Prof Kenji Sato<\/a>, who did some of the earlier research on amino acid pairs being transferred into human blood.<\/p>\n Unlike most researchers, he\u2019s compared the effects of collagen to those of another protein \u2013 casein, from milk \u2013 albeit in mice, and in a study funded by collagen producer Nitta.<\/p>\n His team wounded mice then fed them collagen peptides, casein or water. They saw faster healing and suppressed scarring in the collagen-fed mice and Sato puts this difference down to the proline-hydroxyproline (Pro-Hyp) amino acid doublet that is common in collagen.<\/p>\n In the dish, at least, Pro-Hyp seems to act as a repair signal, activating collagen-producing cells called fibroblasts, which are present in all tissues including skin. But Sato suggests it only works on very specific forms of fibroblasts \u2013 new ones that appear at wound sites.<\/p>\n \u201cI see no effect on the old fibroblasts,\u201d says Sato, referring to other fibroblasts present all the time in normal skin.<\/p>\n And while other researchers are starting to study Pro-Hyp too, it\u2019s early work and there remains a huge gap between what Pro-Hyp does in mice or cells, and proving it\u2019s relevant for humans at the low concentrations measured after taking supplements.<\/p>\n My impression is that the wealth of claims that collagen brands are making is massively overblown. It\u2019s important for health claims to be properly evaluated, Sato says, in order \u201cto send the correct information to consumers.\u201d<\/p>\n In Japan, he tells me, liquid collagen peptides are recommended for treating bedsores only, based on recent evidence. Claims for skin and joints are not approved.<\/p>\n In the EU and UK, supplement makers aren\u2019t allowed to make any \u2018health claims\u2019 about collagen, as former president of the Association for Nutrition<\/a> in the UK, Dr Margaret Ashwell, explains via email.<\/p>\n Claims about collagen improving skin and joint health have been reviewed by the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) but not authorised.<\/p>\n And, surprisingly, \u2018beauty\u2019 claims about collagen products, such as improving the appearance of skin, require no authorisation \u2013 provided they don\u2019t imply a health benefit. Given what I\u2019m seeing online, I can only assume these rules are not being well policed.<\/p>\n Keep your coffee clean<\/p>\n If dumping powdered connective tissue into your americano doesn\u2019t appeal, there are other ways you can achieve collagen\u2019s benefits.<\/p>\n After all, while browsing through a list of authorised health claims, I stumble upon other supplements with claims related to collagen.<\/p>\n So, first, make sure you\u2019ve stocked up on citrus fruits. Registered health claims for vitamin C include its contributions to \u201cnormal collagen formation for the normal function of\u201d blood vessels, bones, cartilage, gums, skin and teeth. Plus, as Forde reminds me, it will stave off scurvy, which (believe it or not) is on the rise again.<\/p>\n Another suggestion is to do as Weng and Phillips recommend and increase protein intake via whole foods with each meal, which should improve absorption compared to downing a supplement in one sitting.<\/p>\n If convenience demands you take a supplement, then you\u2019ll get \u201cmore bang for your buck,\u201d Phillips says, from a \u201ccomplete\u201d protein, like milk or soy, containing all the amino acids.<\/p>\n But if you feel collagen is a must, then Weng advises doing your research and finding one free of additional ingredients \u201cthat can cause real health issues,\u201d such as heavy metals.<\/p>\n In the case of marine collagens, for example, a recent study<\/a> found \u201calarming\u201d levels of lead that vary considerably between brands.\u00a0<\/p>\n![\"2C85D3J](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/Alamy_2C85D3J-scaled.jpg\")
Collagen supplements take many forms. Often, we\u2019re encouraged to stir it into our coffee – Credit: Alamy<\/p>\n![\"Collagen](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/Collagen-2.jpg\")
Collagen fibres, like these captured by a light micrograph, twist into higher order structures like skin and hair – Credit: Science Photo Library<\/p>\n![\"3BG9AN4](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/Alamy_3BG9AN4-scaled.jpg\")
Collagen is broken down into smaller and smaller pieces in our bodies, releasing amino acids when digested in the gut – Credit: Alamy<\/p>\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/Collagen-3.jpg\")
Sifting through scientific papers isn\u2019t light work, but it can reveal where marketing claims are overblown \u2013 or if there are biased parties involved – Credit: Getty<\/p>\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/Collagen-4.jpg\")
Fibroblast cells (the red central mass shown in this scanning electron micrograph (SEM) image) produce collagen and play an essential role in wound healing – Credit: Science Photo Library<\/p>\n![\"Oranges](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/Collagen-5.jpg\")
When it comes to boosting your collagen, eating more vitamin C could be a better bet than collagen supplements – Credit: Getty images<\/p>\n