Dublin has changed, admits Stephen Buckley, but the best places have survived

Stephen Buckley of FX Buckley at their Pembroke Street restaurant. Photo: Steve Humphreys

Stephen Buckley of FX Buckley at their Pembroke Street restaurant. Photo: Steve Humphreys

Stephen Buckley eats with relish the succulent pieces of fillet and sirloin.

Carefully cut for sharing, he takes pieces from both sides of the large T-bone of porterhouse steak. Cooked in a charcoal oven at his FX Buckley Pembroke Street restaurant, medium rare, it comes with chips fried in beef dripping, caramelised onions, chestnut mushrooms and watercress, pickled onion rings with smoked paprika and parsley, and creamed spinach and nutmeg.