The Garden City was the only destination in Oceania to make the cut. Auckland was left in the dust. So the bosses told me to pack my bags for a long weekend.
The expansive views of Awaroa/Godley Head is only a 30-minute drive from the city.
My first conversation in these new lands was with the taxi driver picking me up from Christchurch Airport, and naturally, he brought the city’s traffic to my attention.
“In Christchurch, you’re never in traffic for long,” he told me as we were stuck in traffic. “If you miss your turn[off], you’ll find the next one in no time, whereas in Auckland it might be another 5km before you get the next turn.”
A year ago I would have thought this assumption about Auckland’s traffic was exaggerated. It’s not as bad as other major cities in the world – 20 minutes spent crawling behind a Toyota Prius wasn’t the worst thing.
But I’m approaching my mid-30s; things look different now. I heard his words. I now pay attention to how much time I spend on commuting – time that could have been used for rest or making memories with loved ones. It’s a lot of minutes, days, weeks.
Duck leg on the spring menu at Gatherings.
Upon arriving, I thought of Wynyard Quarter. Like that revitalised spot near Auckland’s harbour, Christchurch was jarringly flat for my Auckland feet. The outdoor spaces were sparse and it felt like high-quality concrete boxes of new, perfect houses, offices, cafes and convention centres had been picked up and dropped around the city straight from the product line. Because it basically was. The city, of course, was almost entirely rebuilt after the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes.
“There’s never a point where you feel swallowed by the architecture of the city,” local art historian Reuben Woods told me.
City buildings were level with the trees.
“There’s an openness. There’s always a sense of the sky above the streets, a sense of open exposure.”
These words struck a chord, because I knew the opposite feeling so well, having lived in a suffocating 23sq m apartment in Auckland’s CBD.
Chris Wilcock of Christchurch NZ said the rebuild allowed locals to design the city they hoped for, rather than what it was.
I could see what he meant. I saw the hope everywhere, including in the street murals. One I loved was Kophie Su’a-Hulsbosch and Janine Williams’ Wāhine Toa. Commemorating the 130th anniversary of the suffrage movement, it stands bold and proud on Hereford St.
Wāhine Toa by Christchurch artist Kophie Su’a-Hulsbosch and Auckland artist Janine Williams.
After a swathe of restaurant and cafe closures in Auckland, it was a relief to see a vibrant dining scene in Christchurch. The food did not disappoint and there were plenty of standout options.
My top pick for a date night was Gatherings, which was named in the Bib Gourmand category in this year’s Michelin rankings. For dinner, staffer Polly served us beautiful braised lamb with baby turnips and a ballotine of duck leg. I can still taste it.
For lunch, I went on a 20-minute drive to one-star Michelin restaurant Tussock Hill, one of only two restaurants in Christchurch to receive the accolade. The blue nose fish with asparagus, spring legumes, smoked mussel and hazelnut was a poem on a plate: delicate and romantic.
And I recommend enjoying a mahika kai experience with Waka on Avon (a great alternative to the gondola). The staff delivered a genuine experience that was tasty and special.
In the morning I did well ordering a “green eggs by Sam” at Miro. It’s another Michelin-select joint, so you can safely expect good things from the menu. Go for the food and stay for the cosy walnut decor.
Geneva AM performs at the opening of the Christchurch Spring Fashion Festival at Te Pae. Photo / Tory McArthur
I thought it would be quiet, with not a lot happening, but that wasn’t the case.
From my room at The Drifter, a fancy hostel in the heart of the city, I could see the new One NZ Stadium. The rugby’s on. Earlier, I went to the opening of the Christchurch Spring Fashion Festival, which returned to the city for a second year, at Te Pae. There was a lot of excitement in the air.
But for me, one of Auckland’s biggest drawcards is accessible nature and hiking. Christchurch, it turned out, has its own secrets.
Crater Rim Walks met the challenge and scooped me for a walk up Awaroa/Godley Head. It was full sun. It was expansive. It was so close to the city. I couldn’t believe it.
I was surprised that everywhere I went in Christchurch was close, within walking distance or a short drive. A nearby resident said school pick-up, work, their favourite eateries, bars, home and parks were within a 10-minute drive. I didn’t roll my eyes. I was envious.
Ōtākaro River. Photo / Christchurch NZ
It might mean making genuine connections is easier. There are more ways than ever to spend time with each other – through technology, clubs and meetups – and yet, I know a lot of people in Auckland who still feel lonely. Perhaps we need less hustle and bustle.
Or, perhaps, we need affordable housing. I can’t buy a home in Auckland, but in Christchurch, it felt plausible. A quick search of real estate listings showed several two- to three-bedroom properties in the inner city available for around $500,000.
This affordability, according to Wilcock, helps locals find a “life-work” balance; you’re more likely to invest in the community, rather than feel like the connection is disposable as a renter. Everything is close to you so you have few transport costs and you might even have cash left over on payday to spend on things you truly enjoy.
Census data from 2023 shows that 55.3% of Christchurch residents lived in a home they own, compared with 45.8% of Aucklanders. To me, the possibility of laying down roots is Christchurch’s biggest perk.
After a three-day weekend, it was clear there was plenty more to experience.
Would I go back? If travelling to nearby towns, I’ll likely be making my stopover in Christchurch rather than Queenstown, which is burdened by over-tourism.
Would I move there? If I wanted to buy a house and a quieter life, I would seriously consider it. The city has everything you need. But I hate the cold, so we’ll see.
The journalist’s trip to Christchurch was paid for by Christchurch NZ.
Varsha Anjali is a journalist in the lifestyle team at the Herald. She is, for better or worse, based in Auckland.