Ace Seafood seeks to reel in a broader audience with revamp and relaunch

As far back as the early 1900s, Oakland’s Temescal neighborhood was home to small Italian-owned businesses. Genova Delicatessen opened in 1926 on the site of a former train barn. The long-gone G&G hardware store’s neon sign still looms above the businesses on the designated landmark Cattaneo Block, which stretches from 5006 to 5010 Telegraph. Ace Seafood, at 5000 Telegraph, is located right in the middle of this historic block, which once housed the Buon Gusto Bakery.

These were neighborhood establishments, places where people could “feel free to hang out all day” and bring their kids, said Tay Kennedy, who, along with Peter Gutowski, took over Small Change earlier this year and relaunched it as Ace Seafood in February. Kennedy and Gutowski, who know other restaurant owners on the block and enjoy the camaraderie among the neighborhood establishments, said that’s the goal for the revamped oyster bar and seafood-focused restaurant.

Branden Nichols, who developed the Small Change concept and opened the restaurant in July 2024 with business partners Matt and Tiffany Lipelt, agreed that the model wasn’t working and some big changes were in order. Nichols turned the day-to-day operations over to partners Gutowski and Kennedy, who are the new operating partners, and they have rebranded and revamped the seafood-plus restaurant into Ace Seafood, with the Lipelts still involved as owners.

Partners Kennedy and Gutowski both worked at Small Change and have years of previous restaurant experience. They collaborated on the wine list for the most appropriate pairings. Kennedy worked at the now-closed Rosie’s Tap Room on the same block. Gutowski’s jobs encompassed every part of restaurant work but eventually, he “found his way back to the kitchen.”

The shared goal for Ace, they agreed, was to create a more casual experience for neighbors who found the prior menu too pricey.

“Our friends couldn’t afford to eat here,” Kennedy said.

The Ace Seafood menu includes fish and chips (top) and a fish sandwich on a Forma roll. Credit: Courtesy of Peter Gutowski/Ace Seafood

In the previous incarnation, the small (18 seats inside) restaurant and bar had table service. Now there is modified counter service, and patrons can open a tab to cover additional orders of food or beverages.

While the inside is intimate with bar seating and a counter at the window, there are 48 seats on the spacious back patio, which is shared with Poppy Bagels next door (operating hours are coordinated so the space is usable all day).

The biggest changes are on the menu.

“We needed to expand our horizons and go beyond just seafood,” Gutowski said.

While keeping customer favorites such as mussels, fish and chips, chowder and oysters, they added wings, because “We needed good chicken wings.”

His credentials are in order for Buffalo wings (mild, medium or hot), since he began his culinary career in the northern New York city. (Other wing options are lemon pepper, garlic parm, sticky fish sauce and honey Cajun, made with chicken or house-made tofu and served with crudité and blue cheese.) In another nod to his Buffalo roots, Gutowski has gone for an authentic bread for the Beef on Weck sandwich: it’s imported from New Jersey’s Anthony and Sons, called Kummelweck (or “weck”), a roll topped with caraway seeds and Maldon, “a coarse flaky sea salt, more gentle than kosher salt.” The Fish Roll is served on a split-top bun from Forma, the bakery up the block. The shrimp po’ boy is a mouthwatering selection made with Louisiana white shrimp, served on a hoagie with lettuce, tomato, onion and remoulade. Oysters, sold by the dozen or half dozen, are presented over ice with a traditional tangy mignonette and lemon wedge. Watch for seasonal specials to appear on the menu.

Ace Seafood has converted to counter service, and in addition to 18 seats inside, there is a spacious back patio customers can use. Credit: Courtesy of Peter Gutowski/Ace Seafood

Ace features produce from around California, while most of the oysters come from Taylor Shellfish and Baywater Shellfish Company in Washington. Currently available are favorites Indigos (described as “vegetal or grassy”), Kumamoto (small, sweet and creamy), Shigoku (briny and sweet), and Sweetwaters (the rotating local option in early March; described as “ sweet and slightly smoky) from Hog Island. Gutowski and Kennedy give a huge shoutout to their oyster shucker Roberto, “the heartbeat” of Ace’s kitchen.

Gutowski defines his cooking style as “technique-based.”

“We take our time and do it right,” he said.

His special preparation of clam chowder is different from the traditional: “It’s Oakland style,” which in this case means it’s an aromatic, creamy combination of chopped clams, potato nuggets, and a variety of minced vegetables. The accompanying oyster crackers complement the chowder, adding a little crunch to the texture.

Ace Seafood also features a shrimp cocktail on its menu. Credit: Peter Gutowski/Ace Seafood

Beginning in March, events are scheduled to take place on the patio. Check Ace’s Instagram for more details.

Science tells us that the high levels of zinc and amino acids found in oysters can spark feelings of euphoria. It’s a good jumpstart toward Gutowski and Kennedy’s goal of creating a neighborhood spot with a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

Ace Seafood seeks to reel in a broader audience with revamp and relaunch

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